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Just want someone to fix something.

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kimbear

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Ok, I have 2 really simple circuits, that for the life of me I cannot get to work. This is the operating system for one of my favorite toys (A RC Submarine) that after Many Many years I was FINALLY able to purchase...but it is non-functioning. Its from the 70s, so its all just buffers and transistors...no custom chips. or COBs.
There are 3 boards, one is a remote (left right forward, back, and submerge surface...basically 5 functions, but 1 channel The REMOTE DOES WORK, because I have tried it on another unit, and its ok.
So now we come down to 3 fairly simple analogue boards:
-a simple receiver, 3 transistors, a couple of resistor's and caps...and coils (no coils or anything were touched on this board, as it was originally soldered into a small tin box)
- and the buffer board, 2 Toshiba buffer ICs, and driver transistors for the 5 motors (along with some caps and resistors).
-a third board that is simply a Reed Switch, and a switching transistor. This is used to turn on and off the receiver/buffer boards thru the casing of the sub.

-all the ics and transistor's were easily found on the internet as standard analogue off the shelf units...no fancy stuff here.

Ok, so the person that had this, tore it mostly apart, the motor's are still connected, but any interconnections, between the 3 boards are all gone.
As far as I can tell, there SEEMS to only be 3 wires going between the receiver and buffer boards..and another 3 going to the reed switch board

Ive spent HOURs on this...and its driving me BONKERS..so what I would like to do is:

-Pack it all up in a small box, and ship it to someone that will fix it, and pay for the repair.

This sub is actually quite important to me, and Id like to get it going.

-SO WILL SOMEONE HELP ME OUT???!!!

Ps-this unit is so obscure that there are no schematics, or wiring diagrams anywhere to be found on the internet.\

Thanks a lot for reading this excessively long rant
Kim
 
Perhaps you should simply....buy a cheap RC toy, gut it, and use its electronics in your sub. Just look for one with enough controls to do what u want. These days an average racecar or boat RC interface should give u enough options.

or do this:
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/348
 
Thanks Mosaic,
I appreciate the response...

the problem is 2 fold, size, and functionality.
Both circuits are smaller than the smallest rc receiver (such as an orange)...and the fact that it has 5 functions.
Most RC stuff...at least the simple Wal-Mart stuff have 2 functions...maybe 3 at the most. so this is a bit of a hybrid.
Space is at a absolute premium, and these boards have been designed to fit within a space, without so much as a hairs width to spare.
I know that it sounds lazy of me, but Ive spent HOURS trying to figure it out, and its done nothing but drive an already Looney person to advanced looneyness(sp).
Id rather just box it up, and send it to a faaar more experienced person than I ...which consists of about 99.9% of the members here.




Perhaps you should simply....buy a cheap RC toy, gut it, and use its electronics in your sub. Just look for one with enough controls to do what u want. These days an average racecar or boat RC interface should give u enough options.

or do this:
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/348
 
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-SO WILL SOMEONE HELP ME OUT???!!!
Can I suggest that a good start would be to let us know where in the world you are?
Otherwise shipping costs and customs issues may be a problem.

JimB
 
Thanks, Jim
You are correct, as per usual.

Beautiful Downtown Dundas, Ontario, CANADA,snuggled up right beside Hamilton.

I would pay all shipping charges, of course.
Since its being sent for repair, no duties would be owed....but if it did happen Id pay

Can I suggest that a good start would be to let us know where in the world you are?
Otherwise shipping costs and customs issues may be a problem.

JimB
 
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Another good thing to do is change the title of this thread to ... someone to fix a RC submarine. I know there is a fellow Canadian here that has used RC planes for sixty years, but I don't think he will even look at a thread with the title it currently has.
 
Thanks Mosaic,
I appreciate the response...
the problem is 2 fold, size, and functionality.
Both circuits are smaller than the smallest rc receiver (such as an orange)...and the fact that it has 5 functions.
Ambiguous as to the size you need. If you need something smaller than an orange (a California navel orange?) that should be easy. In fact, finding an RC receiver as big as such an orange would be difficult. Dimensions in inches or even centimeters would be more meaningful.
Most RC stuff...at least the simple Wal-Mart stuff have 2 functions...maybe 3 at the most. so this is a bit of a hybrid.
WalMart is not my first nor even last choice for RC equipment. The number of channel functions with modern equipment easily exceeds 12.
Space is at a absolute premium, and these boards have been designed to fit within a space, without so much as a hairs width to spare.
You really haven's said how much space you have.
I know that it sounds lazy of me, but Ive spent HOURS trying to figure it out, and its done nothing but drive an already Looney person to advanced looneyness(sp).
Id rather just box it up, and send it to a faaar more experienced person than I ...which consists of about 99.9% of the members here.
What is your budget? Automotive shops charge $80 to >$100/hour, and that is for cars that have diagrams and instructions. You are asking someone who is technically adept to go into a black box and fix it with very little information to go on. Are you prepared to pay for several hours of work?

Here is a modern, 6-channel receiver that is smaller than an orange:
upload_2014-8-8_5-21-57.png


Hobby King, Horizon Hobbies, Spektrum, Futaba, and JR are just a few of the many brands available today. Any RC magazine will have dozens of advertisements for small, lightweight, modern equipment.

John
 
Actually, When I stated "orange" I was specifying the name of a very small, commonly used Rc receiver system. I should have made that more clear, sorry.
**broken link removed**
That receiver that you have shown is quite small indeed, but once you add 5 interfaced drivers for the motors...then it is no longer small.
As well, this whole thing runs on 3 volts, not a common voltage...the receiver you have shown and most RC tx/rx stuff runs on 6vdc. I actually have quite a bit of experience in the RC field, so I am fairly well versed on what is available in the marketplace. Converting this unit over with a new 5 channel system, IF I can find one that happily operates on 3 vdc, AND can fit within the prescribed space with probably be a MONSTEROUS outlay of money.
I would simply wait until another one shows up for sale, buy it, and follow its circuit, but its so uncommon, that I have only seen one up for sale in the many years Ive been looking.
I really didn't specify size because my preference has been to repair, not replace.
As far as payment goes, I guess I will just have to wait until someone is willing to at least look at it... and send me a quote.
By looking at it I can figure out whats happening in each of the modules, as I said , its fairly easy old-school analogue stuff...I just cant seem to figure out how to interconnect them.
 
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kimbear,

I'll give it a shot. No real way to convince you of my qualifications (which are extensive) but I go by the credo of what I consider to be the primary definition of a competent "technician", i.e., "Can you take it apart, put it back together, and do no harm?" (unlike the previous owner).

PM me if you're interested. We can discuss remuneration (I am very reasonable), etc..
 
So, this means what?

You get to reverse engineer it.


To a certain extent a person taking on a job such as this would have to reverse engineer it.
As we all know... Schematics for ANYTHING are getting harder and harder to find, so reverse engineering is pretty much a fact of life with most jobs.
If reverse engineering is not something that you prefer to do, than don't take on any jobs such as this.
 
kimbear,

I'll give it a shot. No real way to convince you of my qualifications (which are extensive) but I go by the credo of what I consider to be the primary definition of a competent "technician", i.e., "Can you take it apart, put it back together, and do no harm?" (unlike the previous owner).

PM me if you're interested. We can discuss remuneration (I am very reasonable), etc..

You don't have to speak of qualifications, your positive reviews state that for you.
By the fact you are a Ham also helps with a circuit such as this.
Can I get a personal email, I cannot seem to find a way to contact you personally on here.
 
KB:

There is a menu under your name and a sub-menu called Conversations. That's where you need to go. It's a better system than PM's, It's basically a forum by invite only and you can attach files, hence "Conversations".
 
Just a couple of comments that may help CBB:
1) Do you know the frequency? Are you sure it is RF?
2) Are the component identification numbers legible?
3) You mention a "reed switch." How many reeds? Is the unit old enough to be the early reed-type of multi-channel receiver? I thought those disappeared in the early 60's, but that date might off a bit.

John
 
KB:

There is a menu under your name and a sub-menu called Conversations. That's where you need to go. It's a better system than PM's, It's basically a forum by invite only and you can attach files, hence "Conversations".
Thanks for that info, KISS.

I hadn't realized there is a difference now from the old PMs - live and learn...:banghead:
 
Ive incorporated answers into your questions, Thank you Sir


Just a couple of comments that may help CBB:
1) Do you know the frequency? Are you sure it is RF?
yes, the transmitter and receiver both have an antenna, both have crystals, and both have RF "canned coils...luckily, nobody was stupid enough to play with any tuning, all coils are still sealed safely under a gob of wax.

2) Are the component identification numbers legible?
Yes, all ids are plainly visible, and are VERY common...even today. I was able to find them very easily. Its mostly 2 buffers, and a bunch of NPN switching transistors...equiv to 2n2222's.

3) You mention a "reed switch." How many reeds? Is the unit old enough to be the early reed-type of multi-channel receiver? I thought those disappeared in the early 60's, but that date might off a bit.

The reed switch is only used as an on and off switch. Since it is a sub, and needs to be sealed watertight, the easiest way to have a ON/OFF switch was to have a sliding magnetic switch on the outside of the model, triggering a reed switch onside to turn on.

Believe it or not, Reed switched receivers, along with an amplification tube was still in use up to the 70s in model usage. I have a COX transmitter/receiver unit that is simply an antenna, a tuned coil, a small tube, and a bunch of reed relays...dated 1972

John
 
I hope you guys got PM's figured out. The additional options are allow others to invite and an effective lock. "Edit conversation", I think, could better be labeled "Edit Permiissions". Note that "Report" is there too. This probably invites the moderator group to the conversation and would be good for reporting threatening behavior with "Real proof".

Locking would be a way to keep a member from contacting you by locking the current conversation. You would also have to add them to your ignore list as well.
Allow others to invite just appears to be a privacy issue. I saw the power of this new method when a select few re-wrote the rules. Most of the ****-chat happened in public, but the actual edits and discussion of the possible edits, "noise", happened in private.
 
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