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IRF Direct Fets How to solder??

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williB

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Hey guys , I've recently purchased some IRF6609's
They come in DirectFet packages , Which are Leadless flat rectangles..
My question is , How would i solder them onto the board? Solder paste?
An oven?
Any recomendations?
 
williB said:
Hey guys , I've recently purchased some IRF6609's
They come in DirectFet packages , Which are Leadless flat rectangles..
My question is , How would i solder them onto the board? Solder paste?
An oven?
Any recomendations?

As far as I'm aware (and I don't have equipment to do them) you need to simultaneously heat both sides of the board to an accurately controlled temperature, presumably you use solder paste? (or pre-tin both board and component).

I have a friend who's got all the gear, he replaces multi-hundred pin BGA (Ball Gate Array) in digital satellite receivers.

My recommendation would be to pick some easier to handle FET's!.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
williB said:
Hey guys , I've recently purchased some IRF6609's
They come in DirectFet packages , Which are Leadless flat rectangles..
My question is , How would i solder them onto the board? Solder paste?
An oven?
Any recomendations?

As far as I'm aware (and I don't have equipment to do them) you need to simultaneously heat both sides of the board to an accurately controlled temperature, presumably you use solder paste? (or pre-tin both board and component).

I have a friend who's got all the gear, he replaces multi-hundred pin BGA (Ball Gate Array) in digital satellite receivers.

My recommendation would be to pick some easier to handle FET's!.
cant do that , i've allready bought them.. Plus they are the ones i want to use..
they have only 2 milli Ohm resistance @10 V Vgs..
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2005/08/irf6609.pdf
 
williB said:
Nigel Goodwin said:
williB said:
Hey guys , I've recently purchased some IRF6609's
They come in DirectFet packages , Which are Leadless flat rectangles..
My question is , How would i solder them onto the board? Solder paste?
An oven?
Any recomendations?

As far as I'm aware (and I don't have equipment to do them) you need to simultaneously heat both sides of the board to an accurately controlled temperature, presumably you use solder paste? (or pre-tin both board and component).

I have a friend who's got all the gear, he replaces multi-hundred pin BGA (Ball Gate Array) in digital satellite receivers.

My recommendation would be to pick some easier to handle FET's!.
cant do that , i've allready bought them.. Plus they are the ones i want to use..
they have only 2 milli ohm resistance @10 V Vgs..
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2005/08/irf6609-2.pdf

Did you consider paralleling two (4 milli-ohm RDSON) Fets that are easier to deal with. I know you can get down to 4milliohm in D2Pak.
 
There are some FETs that come in easy SO-8 pkgs which are extremely low Rds.
 
well i've got the circuit layed out ..
should i use positive photo resist?? , not sure , cuz i've never used the photo resist method??
 

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i forgot about the toner transfer method ..
question , will a piece of magazine paper work as well as glossy paper ??
 
Optikon said:
williB said:
Nigel Goodwin said:
williB said:
Hey guys , I've recently purchased some IRF6609's
They come in DirectFet packages , Which are Leadless flat rectangles..
My question is , How would i solder them onto the board? Solder paste?
An oven?
Any recomendations?

As far as I'm aware (and I don't have equipment to do them) you need to simultaneously heat both sides of the board to an accurately controlled temperature, presumably you use solder paste? (or pre-tin both board and component).

I have a friend who's got all the gear, he replaces multi-hundred pin BGA (Ball Gate Array) in digital satellite receivers.

My recommendation would be to pick some easier to handle FET's!.
cant do that , i've allready bought them.. Plus they are the ones i want to use..
they have only 2 milli <a href="#">ohm</a> resistance @10 V Vgs..
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2005/09/irf6609.pdf

Did you consider paralleling two (4 milli-ohm RDSON) Fets that are easier to deal with. I know you can get down to 4milliohm in D2Pak.
Optikon , Oznog and Nigel ,i am pretty sure that i can work with the 6609's , tommorow i am going to try the toner transfer and etch a board or two..
 
I am happy to report that the toner transfer method worked beautifully..
I just laser printed the above pattern on a piece of magazine paper and ironed it to the circuit board.. then soaked the board in water.. then ecthed the board.. then tinned the board with solder..
now the bad news.. when i get done soldering one transistor on and test it , and go on to the next one, somewhere along the line the previous tansistor desolders itself :( ..sigh , i might have to make them farther apart
 
SMD soldering

:lol: It is something I had to do all day when I worked as a prototype tech................If you solder one part on and the clamp a heat-sink to the board between the two peaces you will have no trouble with temperature creeping along the tracks.

If you do still have trouble then your iron is too hot, make sure you are using LMP paste (Low Melting Point). And check your iron is set correctly for SMD's, you may also be holding the iron on the joint for too long........

I could go on for days :D But I hope you get the idea...........

I have been were you are now, I was a development tech, as I said and had to make many prototype boards by hand.............. I would also recommend you buy some cheap SMD resistor packs and practise soldering them.......it is totaly differant to through plated soldering..
 
It is something I had to do all day when I worked as a prototype tech................If you solder one part on and the clamp a heat-sink to the board between the two peaces you will have no trouble with temperature creeping along the tracks.
i'm not sure what you mean ..??
but i am considering , at this point , not using the board at all..
 
Not sure????????

It's not hard to understand. You form a heatsink in order to disipate the heat away from the commponents that you have already soldered to the board........................
 
Re: Not sure????????

rigdoctor99 said:
It's not hard to understand. You form a heatsink in order to disipate the heat away from the commponents that you have already soldered to the board........................
oh , i get it now..
 
i just ran a test , with the generator hooked through half the board , and got a tad over 700mA , but one transistor was getting hot , so i assume the one was'nt soldered perfectly correct .. i tell ya i have never had such a hard time soldering anything before this..
what i found worked best was to put a tiny bit of solder on the transistor , then put it in place , then heat the back..
maybe if i can find some low temp solder , locally, things will improve :roll:
on the bright side 700mA was the most i've ever got from the half wave rectified power coming from the generator..
 
I am going to give up on the directFets..
i ordered some IRF3703's that come in a TO220 package..
the IRF3703 has a RDS(on) (on resistance) of just 2.8 mOhms ..
a Vgs of 20V
a max current capacity of 210 Amps.. :lol: depending on the junction temperature
i cant wait till they get here.. 8)
 
williB said:
I am going to give up on the directFets..
i ordered some IRF3703's that come in a TO220 package..
the IRF3703 has a RDS(on) (on resistance) of just 2.8 mOhms ..
a Vgs of 20V
a max current capacity of 210 Amps.. :lol: depending on the junction temperature
i cant wait till they get here.. 8)

That 2.8mOhms does NOT include the leads.
I don't think '220 leads are rated to carry 210 amps! (continuously anyways)

These will have GOBS of junction capacitance so if you are going to switch them fast, it will be very tough (many amps of transient gate current needed)

They sound nice though.. how much did they rip you off for?
 
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