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IR Remote Light Switch

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David Keeler

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I have built a IR controlled light switch using the tsop 1738 IR sensor, 555 timer, D-flip flop (wired as toggle), and a 12 volt electromechanical relay. My question is how can I implement the use of a manual backup wall switch that allows me to turn the lights on and off but also still allow me to use the remote.

Essentially If I have the light turned on and then use the wall switch to turn it off, I should be able to press the button and the light comes back on. I've currently only been able to use the remote and it switches on and off perfectly, but when I try to include the wall switch as a backup I can't quite get it. I've tried wiring the light switch in series and in parallel with the relay. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Something like this. One "3-way" (SPDT) switch is the manual switch and the other "3-way" switch is the relay contacts.

300px-3-way_switches_position_2.svg.png
 
If memory serves me correctly the 3-way switch is a two position switch so it is either choice "A" or choice "B" it does not have a third position of off.

Can we see a diagram of how you are interfacing the IR controlled switch?
 
Something like this. One "3-way" (SPDT) switch is the manual switch and the other "3-way" switch is the relay contacts.

300px-3-way_switches_position_2.svg.png
This is the way to do it you use both the normally open and normally closed contacts on the IR controller relay.
You will have to change the wall switch to a three way and add the extra wires.
 
If memory serves me correctly the 3-way switch is a two position switch so it is either choice "A" or choice "B" it does not have a third position of off.

Can we see a diagram of how you are interfacing the IR controlled switch?
Yes it is A or B only but it does not need an off it simply changes states from off to on or on to off, thats how a three way light switch works.
 
The IR is interfaced using pin (9,13) on this relay
b_13229.jpg
. I send hot from the power supply to pin 13 (NO) and when the really is closed pin (9) becomes hot and is sent to the light bulb. Is it possible to use this relay and a basic physical light switch or do I need to get something special?

From the diagram above it looks like I take pin 11 and send that to the light switch and then connect neutral to the light bulbs existing neutral?
 
You need a three way wall switch no matter what, unless you wire the existing switch to another one of those relays.
The only way to have full control from two locations is to use a three way setup.
I added the relay pin numbers to the drawing, does that help?
 

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I have another relay of the same type. So I could wire the switch to the second relay. Would that be taking pin (11 from the first relay) and connecting that to the switch and then having the other side of the switch connecting to pin (13) of the second relay and then having pin(9) of the second relay go to the light bulb.
 
You would need a relay with a 110 volt AC coil.
Can you not change the wall switch?
The three way wall switch is common, like at the top and bottom of a stairway.
 
Ah I see, I was thinking the coil would have to be AC, I was just curious. I'll change the wall switch to a 3 way switch. Then I'll use my existing relay and wire it up like the diagram that was shown earlier. Thanks for the help. I'll report back if I can't figure out how to hook up the 3 way switch.
 
I was just stating a fact that the 3 way switch did not have an off position. It just changes which traveler is active.

Hope this can be fitted into the switch box. Neat little project. Keep us posted.
 
Ah I see, I was thinking the coil would have to be AC, I was just curious. I'll change the wall switch to a 3 way switch. Then I'll use my existing relay and wire it up like the diagram that was shown earlier. Thanks for the help. I'll report back if I can't figure out how to hook up the 3 way switch.

For safety, be sure the contacts of the relay that switches the light can handle the current the panel circuit breaker is rated for, which is usually 15 Amps. Either that, or add a fuse in the circuit rated at, or below, the current the relay contacts can handle if that is less than what the panel circuit breaker is rated for.

This safety aspect applies regardless of the desire to have a manual and remote capability. So, just thought I should mention that.
 
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For safety, be sure the contacts of the relay that switches the light can handle the current the panel circuit breaker is rated for, which is usually 15 Amps. Either that, or add a fuse in the circuit rated at, or below, the current the relay contacts can handle if that is less than what the panel circuit breaker is rated for.

This safety aspect applies regardless of the desire to have a manual and remote capability. So, just thought I should mention that.

These days most breakers are 20 amps.
And the wires used should be rated also.
I would fuse the supply lead at the same rating as the relay.
 
14 Awg is rated for 15A
12 Awg is rated for 20A
10 Awg is rated for 30A
 
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Okay so I've got the 3 way switch and based upon the picture that 4Pyros posted
300px-3-way_switches_position_2-svg-png.85699
this is the wiring schematic that I came up with. I just wanted to run this by the group before I actually implemented it incase I missed something.

Im using this light switch **broken link removed**
and the relay I'm using I've already posted a picture above.

This is the wiring diagram that I have put together based on what everyone has said.

Attached is the circuit diagram.
 

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All most, The black screw on your new three way switch is common and should go to the lamp.
The two brass screws are the NC and NO that should go to the NC and NO of the relay.
Just so you know you could end up with a switch combination from time to time that leaves the relay on with the lamp off.
Its just the way the setup works.
 
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