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How to create SOP/SMD to PTH adapter in Eagle?

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ikelectro

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Some how I manage to place them but can't joined them properly.
eag.jpg
 
You need to make a schematic with the three parts. E1,E2, E3
Connect the pins in the schematic. When you go to board you will see small lines showing which pins to connect. If you have auto rout it will to the layout for you.
 
Here is an example. I used a LM555 in 8 pin dip and a LM555 in a SOIC-8 package.
upload_2014-11-6_22-29-34.png

Here is the board. Now connect the pins. See the little yellow lines. That tells you what pins need connected.
upload_2014-11-6_22-30-26.png
 
You don't need to make a schematic. Use the "air wire" tool to connect the pins – this gives you the fine lines shown in Ron's board illustration. Then use the "route" tool (not autorouter) to route the traces.
 
As suggested by you all. I have joined and it looks like this in the picture.
Now how can I make it printable in my laser printer????
wto smd.jpg
 
The top connector isn't completely routed – see the airwire still there? Use the rip up tool to undo the trace and route it again. When the trace is complete, you'll hear a ping.

Personally, I'd lay it out a little differently:

• no square corners on the traces. Use 45° angles instead.

• route to the center of the pads.

Start routing from the center of the SMT pad to a point midway between the pad and the socket pad. Press [esc].

Now route from the center of the socket pad straight out. Left click and finish the connection.
 
Something like this. Note: to be able to route traces at 45 degrees, you have to click the box indicated by the arrow.

electro tech soic routing.jpg
 
upload_2014-11-8_0-40-14.png

Is this is right???? i'm trying as you are saying.... thanks.
so is it ready to print????
 
Much better! Your first one would have worked ok, but it looks a lot nicer now.

If you want to print it out to make a DIY board, go to the view menu and turn off all the layers except top copper and pads/vias. Then printing it out from the print menu should be all you need to do.
 
View attachment 89203
Is this is right???? i'm trying as you are saying.... thanks.
so is it ready to print????

I don't know which layers you plan to print. Depending on that choice, the holes for the headers may be too small or completely filled. I run the ulp: drill-aid.ulp
That ulp fills in those holes except for a small dot, which acts like a center punch. I use 0.3 mm for the spot. If you are using toner transfer, you may want it larger, such as 0.5 mm.

John
 
May be this is the final result. Hi, jpanhalt. Yes I'm trying with toner transfer first. Just see the below picture and give me your suggestion please.
upload_2014-11-8_9-19-7.png


Hi Jonsea I have manage to print a dummy pdf before execution of the real print. Please check it out. i think it looks fine. Thanks again:).
upload_2014-11-8_9-21-37.png
 
That looks good. You might want to make the traces wider – you have plenty of room and it will make etching easier.

To check your printout for proper scaling, measure between the header pins. The pitch should be 0.1"
 
I always use dill-aid .ulp because it gives a center-punch effect, which makes drilling by hand much easier. That is, the drilled hole will be centered in the pad. It is similar to using a center punch when you want to get a drill started correctly on a piece of metal. If you are using a CNC drill it won't matter.

Drill-aid.ulp uses layer 116. You could run the program, then show only layer 116 and delete half of the small disks. Then proceed to make your PCB pattern. That way, you can find our whether partially filling the pad holes helps you. I forget what the default diameter drill-aid gives. You might just use the default at first or something like I recommended (0.5 mm). If it is too small, then the hole won't etch and you lose the effect of having a center punch. If it is too big, then it doesn't guide the drill's point. Something about 1/2 the diameter of our drill should be OK, if that is not too small to etch.

John
 
Also check that the distance between the two pinheaders matches your bradboard or wherever you want to use this.
 
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