How do you splice wires like this?

[Wobble]

Actually, how do you heatshrink them and make them look nice?

Every video I've ever seen keeps showing how to connect a SINGLE wire. I want to connect wires with multiple insulated wires inside them.

I'm not sure how to heatshrink them. Obviously the inner wires need to be insulated from each other. Its hard to get a heatshrink tube over them unless you strip a lot of the outer wire insulation to give a place for the heatshrink tube to rest while you solder (and hope it doesn't start to shrink from the heat next to it) and then slide it down to cover the joint.

I've tried this and had to cut a lot of the outer insulation away. So then I'm left with a long section of wire without outer insulation.

So what is the best way to do this?

**broken link removed**

 

[3v0]

I've tried this and had to cut a lot of the outer insulation away. So then I'm left with a long section of wire without outer insulation

.

Place a long section of heatshrink over the outside prior to doing the inside wires. When the inside is done slip the outside in place and shrink it.

 

[r.raslan]

Think about using "Heat Shrink tubes". After you solder the wires, you can use the heat shrink tubes to cover the area which the isolation layer got to slip because of the soldering heat.

The heat shrink tubes get diamater reduction if you heated very little and it like this photo and the come with different diameters starting from 1 mm and up:


View attachment 68870

View attachment 68871

 

[jpanhalt]

Stagger the splices. Heat shrink at least one of them. I usually heat shrink both. Then heat shrink over both.

John

 

[Wobble]

Would it be a bad idea to paint over the wires with non-metallic nail polish?

or

Cut the heatshrink, then slip it on? (therefore not having to cut away a ton of outer insulation for giving it a holding place until soldering)

 

[unclejed613]

to properly splice and heat shrink wires requires stripping away extra length of the outer jacket, and heat shrinking every wire, and then heat shrinking the outer jacket. yes it takes a bit of extra expense, planning and preparation to do it right, but that's the way it's done....


and no, painting the connections with nail polish or paint won't do it.

 

[jpanhalt]

to properly splice and heat shrink wires requires stripping away extra length of the outer jacket, and heat shrinking every wire, and then heat shrinking the outer jacket. yes it takes a bit of extra expense, planning and preparation to do it right, but that's the way it's done....

Although that is common practice, there are some circumstances when it is neither practical nor desired (e.g., a braided shield). Here is one authority on the matter that states it is optional in some instances:

https://www.electro-tech-online.com...andSealingTechniqueforSoilMoistureSensors.pdf

John

 

[4pyros]

Would it be a bad idea to paint over the wires with non-metallic nail polish?

or

Cut the heatshrink, then slip it on? (therefore not having to cut away a ton of outer insulation for giving it a holding place until soldering)

You can not cut the tubing. It will not hold.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Unfortunately, it is pretty tough, but additude (orientation) matters.

For one staggering the splices is a good idea.
Cutting the jacket so it can be used overtop the splice is yet another option.
Heat shrink tubing with an inside adhesive can help in outdoor splices.
Self-fusing electrical tape works very well sometimes for the final cover. (expensive stuff).

Strip the jacket asymetriclly and if it's reasonable to do so make it possible to use the cut jacket.

For now, assume we won't try to use the jacket.

Put a piece of the larger heat shrink on the jacket of the right color. Nevermind, electrons are color blind.

Strip the jacket insulation asymmetrically. One side has to hold the heat shrink without melting, so the other side can be shorter.

DO learn how to make the proper mechcanical splice.

With the heat shrink on the insulation, mechanically make the splice. Orient the heat shrink downward, so when soldering, heat has less of a chance to close the heat shrink.

make the mechanical connection and solder the wires so that there are few burrs.

The heat gun does a better job of shrinking the tubing than a match.

 

[()blivion]

I use a similar process to what's in the PDF jpanhalt links to, with one major modification. Firstly, I would like to point out that I'm fairly certain 100% silicone sealant is an aerobic compound[SUP][1][2][3][/SUP], so using it in a situation where it is going to be covered up right away is not a great idea, though heat shrink is hardly hermetically sealing. That aside, acetoxy cure silicone does for sure release acetic acid, which will corrode the copper wires. All around a bad plan IMHO.

The above being true, I use hot glue instead. The advantage being that you can be a little sloppy with the application because when you heat/shrink the tube it will squish out most of the excess and leave you with a nice clean finish... After you pull off the excess.

EDIT: I don't know the electrical stress limits of either compound. I would assume don't use for greater than 300V.

The heat gun does a better job of shrinking the tubing than a match.

True, I'm pretty good with a BiC lighter myself. Good hair dryers can work well in a pinch too.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Hot glue isn't flexible, but adhesive lined heat shrink isn't one of your mainstay things to have lying around. See: **broken link removed**

 

[()blivion]

Hot glue isn't flexible, but adhesive lined heat shrink isn't one of your mainstay things to have lying around. See: **broken link removed**

Good find. That's interesting though. That heat shrink mentions that their glue is "just like hot melt glue". Makes me wonder how similar it is exactly...?

As for hot glue by it's self, I wouldn't say that it isn't flexible at all, just it isn't quite as flexible. I personally find it works well enough for most wires when combined with heat shrink, as heat shrink and a soldered connection shouldn't be all that flexible anyway. But I do agree that it isn't the perfect solution. When hot glue is cold it tends to separate from stuff rather than adhere to it. This can let moisture in which isn't good for safety, shock hazard. I use it mostly for indoor and low voltage wiring though, so no biggie. But I have used it for 240V safely.

 

[KJ6EAD]

Firstly, I would like to point out that I'm fairly certain 100% silicone sealant is an aerobic compound[SUP][1][2][3][/SUP], so using it in a situation where it is going to be covered up right away is not a great idea, though heat shrink is hardly hermetically sealing. That aside, acetoxy cure silicone does for sure release acetic acid, which will corrode the copper wires. All around a bad plan IMHO.

You can at least avoid the corrosion problem by using electronics grade silicone (alkoxysilane) which emits alcohol, not acid, during cure. It's unfortunate that an otherwise good treatise showed the use of a wrong material.

 

[4pyros]

Did anyone mention to remove the flux from the solder joint before covering it with heat shrink.
You can seal the ends of the heat shrink tube with crazy glue!
I have done this on radar cables for boats. Even after years on the water the connections are nice and clean.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

You just did. 20/20 hindsight, I guess.

 

[ChrisP58]

What I've usually done is to use common electrical tape over the inner wires. That way you don't need to strip back very much of the jacket. Yes, I know that the tape starts to peal and get gummy after a while, but by covering the whole splice with a piece of heatshrink, the finished connection is clean.

 

[4pyros]

What I've usually done is to use common electrical tape over the inner wires. That way you don't need to strip back very much of the jacket. Yes, I know that the tape starts to peal and get gummy after a while, but by covering the whole splice with a piece of heatshrink, the finished connection is clean.

Yes I have done that too with short wires.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Although I have never used the stuff, "Liquid Electrical Tape": https://www.basspro.com/Star-Brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/product/39763/ The stuff does exist.

 

[4pyros]

I have used it before. Maybe not the best brand but it was vary thin and needed several coats and it takes to long to dry.