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home automation on wire wrap board?

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g2c

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Hello,

I was wondering if instead of learning Eagle and outsourcing the production of the PCB i won't be better off wiring it on a wire wrap prototyping board considering that i may need make changes and also that it's a one time project. I also intended to bring most low voltage signals via telephone cables, each with 4 twisted pairs that i'd terminate with modular connector e.g. RJ45 types and i'll need female 8p8c that can be soldered to a wire wrap board, ideally females with ww pins.

The project is mainly
* inputs coming from the wall switches (in my home most are with 6 switches blocks) where each block has also a phone cable routed to the electricity cabinet where the controlling function will sit and from some sensors mostly PIRs
*outputs via optocouplers and triacs / FETs / Relays to various loads
* a couple of arduino boards / shields or processors and i2c I/Os
* probably few RF modules for the yard etc

Any idea will be most welcome and appreciated

Thanks in advance for your help,

Guy
 
Low voltage stuff is fine on wirewrap or veroboard I do it all the time, however if your dealing with mains thena pcb is a much safer way of doing things.
I think this is what bob was going to elude to.
 
Sounds like you're going to have several modules which are identical to each other. This is way easier to do with PCB. You just order 10 of them. Of couurse it makes sense to check if it works first by prototyping on breadboard. If something is wrong, it is indeed possible to fix existing boards, not to mention ordering new ones.

Even for a single board, making one sided board only takes an hour or so. And if you don't have many through-hole parts, you don't even need to drill too many holes.
 
Modular SnapTrak https://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-buchanan/2tk2d-48/din-mounting-rail/dp/04F607 and DIN Rail is not a bad construction method. You cut it to length and attach a DIN rail clip on it. It does limit the width of the board, because it Snaps into the track.

I did a complex, but modular design of an instrument that way. I did have to piggyback drivers to it, though. I made PCB's without being simulated or breadboarded. During testing, the would not interface to the calibration device. Turns out it was driving a capacitive load. I interconnected with two different kind of connectors. Plug in screw terminals for power and polarized SIP header for signals.

If you don't want to strain relief every cable, I'd suggest come in from the bottom, if this is a wall mount and use round barx across the open cabinet bottom or inside a bit. Continuous grommet would be useful here. You can then strain relief nearly any number of cables with a ty-wrap.

In one application, I did it horizontally with a sliding rack cabinet with a magnetic top. That box, essentially cross connected instruments and separated analog in, analog out and digital. So, lets say a device had a 15 pin D connector on it, so a cable would be run to a 15 pin to wire terminals. Then cross connectes to the analog out, analog in and digital cards.
 
Modular SnapTrak https://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-buchanan/2tk2d-48/din-mounting-rail/dp/04F607 and DIN Rail is not a bad construction method. You cut it to length and attach a DIN rail clip on it. It does limit the width of the board, because it Snaps into the track.
.
it says Our website is Currently Unavailable :(
All of this is going into the distribution box?
Sorry but i am not too familiar with English terms for home electricity. Yes it is going to be in the distribution "box" -actually a small cupboard -attached picture sorry but i don't know why it's wrongly rotated-

Low voltage stuff is fine on wirewrap or veroboard I do it all the time, however if your dealing with mains thena pcb is a much safer way of doing things.
The 220V cables should be routed directly from the triacs to a terminal block as in https://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/PCBT3.shtml which would be by the edge of the board. From there they will run with flexible multistrand cables to din monted terminal blocs like these https://www.omega.com/pptst/AVK.html and from there to the appropriate load with standard single strand wire

i could not find however is the female rj45 with wire wrapp pins
 

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Wow.

If your intent is to design and install your own home automation, then the link below is of no use to you, except maybe for ideas.

But, I have been using X-10 products for many years and for a Do-It-Yourself project they are very easy to implement (ALL controls use either RF or the installed electrical wires themselves). You might note their use of DIN rail style units:

**broken link removed**

(I am not affiliated, in any way, with X-10).
 
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Website goes down for maintenenence probably about 1700 GMT. Try Farnell on yor side of the pond. I see your familiar with DIN rail.
 
I am not affiliated, in any way, with X-10
^_^

I'd rather design and implement the project from scratch to save money, for the fun and to keep my grey cells busy :) Any idea what kind of connector i could use to terminate my phone cables ? Attached a picture. these represent most of my inputs. The connector should be "pressable" and have a 2.54 pcb footprint for my wire warp board
 

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You could use pluggable terminal blocks. Not really cheap. WAGO and phoenix contact come to mind
is the contact of the wire to the pin(s) established with a screw? and they dont seem to offer ww pins.

it's difficult to strip the sleeve out of these tiny conductor w/o damaging them and once naked, the conductors are very fragile which is why i'd much prefer female rj45 on .1" grid so that i can terminate the cable by clamping the male
 
How about these?;

**broken link removed**

PCB Mount females. Cheap...

Might be able to get both genders locally.
 
How about 2 RJ11s, side by side? Do you have access to those?
 
i think that two won't suffice as each can contribute only one of the two rows of three contacts
 
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