help with PCB's at home (toner transfer method) tools

[joeh100]

I need some advice on tools used for the toner transfer method?

What laminater do you recommend? This "applicator" is recommended by pcbfx but is only good for .032" boards. The standard .064" boards are more common and cheaper, and I happen to already have a supply of them. Is anyone already successfully using a laminater with the thicker .064" boards?

What do you guys think about the **broken link removed** drill? I see that micromark has a similar drill for quite a bit less, listed as the microlux drill, although it has a lower rpm. Are any of you guys using these? Any other recommendations are welcome.

Finally what are you using to cut your boards. I've been thinking of getting a cheap scroll saw or table top band saw just for this, as opposed to my previous method of clamping a jigsaw upside down.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

1. You have to modify the laminator for thickness and higher temperature. Sometimes easy. Sometimes hard.

2. Proxxon gets much better marks than Dremel. Artwork that when etched that leaves dimples is preferred for manual drilling. An x-y graduated table can be useful.

3. Routing is by far the best. With an x-y table this makes it possibe.
A right angle attachment makes it possible to use a mini saw blade.
A router and router table would work too. generally you would sacrifice a piece of wood or plastic. Draw paths for the varius hole sizes.

Shears leave a straight ragged edge.

Others have used a tile cutting saw with a diamond blade (hard to find blade). Carbide tipped blades should work too. A fine tooth sawblade mounted flipped is also common.

I dont recomend the scroll saw.

Image using polyester paper if doing the photoresist method. Adhere during exposure with a drop of water.

Boards can be cleaned with vinegar and salt and scuffed with scothbrite.

Its been suggested that Dissolvo paper be used for toner xfer. It disolves in water. It can be found in magician's supply stores.

Dont forget the modified toaster oven. Progrogrommed profiles.

My $0.02

 

[SABorn]

A hot clothes iron works well for the toner transfer, i used the waxy shiney paper that stickers come stuck to to print onto and once ironed to the board and allowed to cool it will peal off clean leaving the toner behind.

Its all a matter of how many boards you will be making, as i much prefer photo resist to toner transfer.

Becareful with scroll saws and jigsaws etc if using fiberglass board, as the blades only travel a small amount and it very quickly wears the teeth off the blade with f/glass.
The simplest is a hacksaw and i used that for many years before i built a cnc router.

If using toner trasfer you can get away with using a good pair of tin snips to cut the board, but this will NOT work with photo resist, as it will fracture the resist coating around the edges, due to the flexing of the board during cutting.

Any small drill press will work ok for drilling boards, one trick i use with f/glass board is to mount a ultra bright white led under the drill press table shining upwards, this makes the holes in the pads very easy to see as the light goes through the f/glass board and the holes glow where the copper is missing, it also shows any fine breaks in the tracks too.
Well worth while doing IMO.

Pete.

 

[3v0]

If I had to use an iron for doing toner transfer I would prefer photo resist too.

 

[joeh100]

Anyone using specific tools that they can recommend or comment on? Especially the drill and laminater.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

There have been plenty of reviews on the proxxon drill. As i had said: **broken link removed**

Laminator: Apparently there is a new model every week. Modified cheap GBC's.

Looks like two approaches are used: (take a look at "this" link within this reference: **broken link removed**
Slow down the laminator. Increase the temperature and modify whatever is necessary to allow higher temp operation.

I'm suggesting an x-y table such as this: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3677

 

[mvs sarma]

check this
item
it is generally available in many nations, a Taiwan made item
https://beverley.manufacturer.globa...d/product_id-8808515038/action-GetProduct.htm

 

[Mr RB]

I bought a cheap $25 laminator from the newsagent, it had an internal electronic temperature control with a thermistor and internal trimpot to set the temperature, so I just turned up the temperature.

As the rollers are a bit flimsy it has plenty of flex that enables full thickness PCB to feed through with no problems. I think I had to cut some plastic off the back slot so the PCB would feed out the back without being scratched.

Mine couldn't be slowed down as it was a little mains synchronous motor, but turning the temp up worked fine I just feed it through a few times until my fingers start getting burned and it "looks done".

 

[joeh100]

Thanks a lot guys. I ordered a laminater I think might work. I'll report back after testing. Still deciding on the drill and cutting method.

 

[mincior]

Try this post:
Electronic Circuits and Projects Forum
Circuit Simulation & PCB Design
new method to manufacture pcb at home