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Help reparing TES-6102 Power Supply

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Alek

New Member
Today I found an old TES - 6102 DC power supply unit in my school's electronics cabinet. It has R32 (or R23 dunno for sure) missing. Probably it has been removed to be replaced but never made it to the *replace* part.

Has anyone got a schematic or maybe an identical PSU, that could tell me the value of this resistor so I can try and fix it ?

Thanks in advance,
Aleks
 

#1supertech

New Member
Can you take a couple of clear digital pix of the PCB where the R would be so I can see what is next to it? I'm usually pretty good about missing or burnt components - as long as I can see the MOBO.

Make the Jpegs around 250kb in size and no bigger!! That equates to a camera setting of (SQ1 at the 1280 x 960 NORMAL) mode setting.

Thanks!

Frank
 

Alek

New Member
Sorry it took me so long but something came up and the photos couldn't find their way up the net :)

Here are they now, taken with my cell phone cos' I didn't have a digital camera around :

EDIT:

2 posts lower.
 
Last edited:

#1supertech

New Member
For Alek and anyone else posting JPEGS on this site:

DIGITAL JPEG PIX INFO

Shoot all digital pix in the following digital camera format only -

If you have a good quality digital camera take and make the posted Jpegs around 250kb in size and no bigger!! That equates to a camera setting of (SQ1 at the 1280 x 960 NORMAL) mode setting.

NO TIFF formatted pix please - as they take forever to download - esp if we only connect at 56k dialup and not DSL.

NO huge Cellphone formatted pix please! They aren't worth looking at quality wise close up in Macro or Super Macro! Just Not enough pixel quality definition.

Too washed out and TOO BLURRY!!

Thx everyone - keep up the good work posting pix of your problem items and circuits - it helps immensely when you post a pix with the post.

Frank
 

Alek

New Member
Here are the pictures taken with a digital camera. Hope they are better.
 

Attachments

  • TES_PSU.zip
    741.5 KB · Views: 189

Sceadwian

Banned
Could you edit the above post and delete the attachments? Those images are godawful huge.
 

Sceadwian

Banned
What are those two wires coming off of where the resistor is supposed to be?
 

Sceadwian

Banned
Without the original resistor or a schematic for the power supply unless someone has that exact model of power supply you're pretty much shooting in the dark as to what to replace it with. I got no reliable results for information on that power supply from Google.
 

#1supertech

New Member
Alek,

Why are you having such a hard time posting some good clear JPEG only pix of that switched PS board there?

The first Cellphone pix were a washout, and now you are attaching a ZIP file of all things??

Can't you just shoot - save & post the pix as I hinted on prior?

Again repeating -

If you have a good quality digital camera take and make the posted Jpegs around 250kb in size and no bigger!! That equates to a camera setting of (SQ1 at the 1280 x 960 NORMAL) mode setting. NO TIFF formatted file pix please!

Take a good CLEAR digital camera shot showing the WHOLE PCB from the components side, and then one from the backside as well. Take a 3rd pix closer up of the area closest to that missing resistor and what I believe was a voltage regulator or else power xsistor? I can't remember now as the prior 2 pix are now gone.

Thx,

Frank
 

Alek

New Member
The pictures are included in the ZIP file. One from the coimponent side, one from the back side and one closeup.
 

Sceadwian

Banned
#1supertech unless you plan on reversse engineering the the entire schematic for the supply from the pictures they're not gonna help.
 

#1supertech

New Member
I can't see them because I don't have WIN ZIP installed on this cmptr.

Guess I can't help you if you can't post the pix like requested.

Oh well..........I tried

Frank
 

Alek

New Member
9125-33f5f9j.jpg

9126-t7zsb8.jpg

9127-67qpzp.jpg

9128-6tpd21.jpg


Better ?
 

#1supertech

New Member
Alek,

Had a few work projects to do, so I was away for a few days.

Finally got to see the PCB pix you PDF file posted a ways back, and by looking at the boards design my guess is that it was made 30+ years ago or so. Where did you get the TES-6102 reference from, or is that just a tag name you put on it?

What part of the world are you located in?

Do you remember what you were working on at the time that the PCB in ? was floating around the “school's electronics cabinet” (in what specific area of the school btw). Are we talking about a Science Lab or Physics Lab by chance?

I’m just trying to relate as to what “certain equip” of that time era was floating around the public is why.

From looking at the PCB’s backside it very evident that someone was not very good at solder R&R work, as there are so many cold solder points all over the board that it isn’t funny. After looking closer at that pix and seeing all those cold solder spots on the backside it was quite evident that someone tried to T/S that board prior (unless you had done that resoldering work?), but evidently in the process couldn’t find any bad components. There also appears to possibly be 2 bad resistors on that board as well as one looks to be slightly overheated, and the other one only appears to have one color band on it unless the colors are really faded??

That missing R23 looks to be a 1 or 2 watt resistor - as by the PCB hole gaps, and most likely it was a round type, and not a sandstone ceramic like R22 next to it. I would also guess that it was less then 10 ohms as well. When I see or work on ckts that have a higher wattage R like that of the 5-watt 2K ohm R22, and then another higher wattage R right next door it usually is the case, as R23 is mainly there acting as a surge resistor.

Even if that bad R23 was there (burnt bad or not), and it was replaced with a good R of equal wattage & value I doubt that board would work with all those cold solder joints there.

Your best hope of ever finding another know good PCB similar to that what you are looking for would be to take those pretty clear topside (JPEGS ONLY btw) photos you have there and post them on Craigslist under the category headings COMMUNITY or else WANTED, and make sure you word the post properly so as to help in identifying the PCB.

Depending on what country you are in you might want to target more then one area so as to overlap geographical areas and get more responses back.

You just never know - as I’ve done it before when I was looking for an identical piece of older automotive analyzer equip that I had all but successfully repaired - if not for the fact that a certain R was substituted for a Zener diode no less (I believe it was). The unit actually worked in some strange capacity believe it or not (not accurately though) - until that is - it was switched into the 24-volt test mode, and that’s when 2 certain under-wattaged R’s got super heated, and then one actually burned up being too low in wattage rating. There was also a secondary calibration procedure that was missing from the reference manual, but that part I had figured out anyway so no biggie even though it would have been nice to have.

Why that Zener diode was sub’d for an R value in the first place is beyond me, but seeings it was an older piece of test equip, and was pretty old LED display technology stuff it’s anyone’s guess. Things like that happened with those older Mfr companies - as QA wasn’t always cutting edge back then.

Beings that Zener diode was there being used as a voltage reference source, esp in the 24-volt test mode, and then seeings that it was missing from the PCB at time of mfr for some strange reason - well - it’s easy to see what caused the unit to fail.

I just missed someone on Ebay selling an identical test unit by maybe 1 or 2 days. Didn’t really care if theirs worked or not, as all I wanted to know is what PCB component was missing and what it was. I also would have paid a finder’s fee for getting a secondary copy of that CAL procedure as well. Oh well….

If you get no hits from the C/L search then next stop is the trash can, as other then that 2K ohm power resistor and that heat sink on the board there isn’t much else worth gutting.

Hope someone answers your C/L post…

Good luck Alek!

Frank
 
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