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Help on Hall Effect Sensor.

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I got this chip from an old CPU fan (brushless), an ES211 hall effect sensor/driver chip. I want to use it as a magnetic sensor but can't make it work if I remove the coils.

Here's the datasheet:

https://www.eastera.com.cn/data/ES211-ENb_a.pdf

Can anyone build me a circuit using this chip without the coil part? The fan itself doesn't have any other parts, only the chip and the coils of the motor.

Thanks.
 
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Looking at the data sheet, it looks like you would have to replace L1 and L2 in the typical application with resistors.
the resistors will have to be calculated for about 5ma to 300ma.

resistor values;
Ohms each = (Vsup. - 1) / Desired ma

I would not exceed 20 volts for my supply.

Hope this helps.
 
Do you own the rights to the data sheet you have posted??????
If not than you should remove it, as it is clearly marked confidential, and i am sure you are in breach of many laws.

Intellectual property is a law, and others have the right to protect it.
You might just get your ass sued.
 
Do you own the rights to the data sheet you have posted??????
If not than you should remove it, as it is clearly marked confidential, and i am sure you are in breach of many laws.

Intellectual property is a law, and others have the right to protect it.
You might just get your ass sued.
The OP didn't post the data sheet, https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/01/ES211-ENb_a.pdf posted it, Still with the negativity.
The data sheet leads me to think that it will operate similar to single pole double throw reed switch, when it has the correct magnetic field, one lead will sink to ground, when it doesn't the other will sink to ground. Take a look at Honeywell's info https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/01/chapter2.pdf and here is a data sheet for a single pole version https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/01/387-0200PDF.pdf
and they do have to have the correct magnetic field to work.
Kinarfi
 
BrownOut-
If it were really confidential, it wouldn't be on the internet.

And if people didn't want you to steal their car, they wouldn't just leave it parked in the city right in front of everyone...

And if you didn't want to give your teenage daughter's boyfriend all that money why did you leave your wallet on the coffee table near him when you went to the toilet? ;)

The fact that something may be easier to steal or left in a less secure location does not change the fact that stealing is stealing.

But kinarfi *may* have a point that once something has been stolen previously, and then may have been passed around from person to person between ignorant people who were not trying to steal anything, that some of those people *may* not have been stealing.

Like when land was stolen from a Commanche hundreds of years ago and then you bought it last year, does it make you a thief? Or just the first guy who stole it from the Commanche, and maybe the guy who bought it from him knowing it was stolen land... At some later point in the chain the person who bought it might be innocent.

Which is exactly why you permanently mark the land with a sign "this land is the property of" so nobody in the chain can ever be innocent. ;)

Sorry for rambling. :D
 
It's got nothing to do with leaving a car parked in the city or anything else. "Confidential" datasheet are released and published all the time. In fact, making something confidential doesn't make it illegal to distribute. Being confidential is an internal rule and doesn't apply to the public at large. It appears to be on the manufacturs website. So, it's been published, and thus there would be no legal problem linking to it.
 
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Use the sensor version of the switch. I did, for a project I did. I forget which one I used. The field needs to be oriented properly.
 
Do you own the rights to the data sheet you have posted??????
If not than you should remove it, as it is clearly marked confidential, and i am sure you are in breach of many laws.

Intellectual property is a law, and others have the right to protect it.
You might just get your ass sued.

That's hilarious. So many SA/Adelaide jokes could be placed here, but I'll spare you. :p

1. The OP was providing a public link, not hosting or directly sending anyone anything.
2. The offending site would be the one to get sued.
3. (And this is the funny bit.) The naughty site publishing Eastera's confidential document is Eastera. It's gonna be a shitstorm when Eastera finds out and sues them.

Edit:lol again at the thought of some electronics hobbyist getting sued for linking to a public link to a datasheet published by the company with the very intent of it being publicly available. Haha.
 
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Hello. Thanks for all the reply. The datasheet is publicly available according to Eastera, "confidential" in their not so good in english means "secure", copyrighted or unmodifiable.

BTW.

Looking at the data sheet, it looks like you would have to replace L1 and L2 in the typical application with resistors.
the resistors will have to be calculated for about 5ma to 300ma.

resistor values;
Ohms each = (Vsup. - 1) / Desired ma

I would not exceed 20 volts for my supply

I've tried so many resistor combinations and they didnt work thats why I posted on this forum. I even tried trimpots to get exactly the resistance of the original motor coil but still with no luck.

Soldering back the coils made everything work again. On each magnetic POLE change, pin #3 will have 0v while pin #2 gets 9v (im using 9v power, multi-tester for testing) even if they are connected to a common source and VICE VERSA. The FG output also sends pulses as expected. But replacing the coils won't make it work.

The original coil resistance are these:

Code:
        __/\/\120ohms/\/\____ Pin #2   (9v on North, 0v on South)
+9v  --|
       |__/\/\80 ohms/\/\____ Pin #3   (0v on North, 0v on South)

Using resistors you get 4+v on both pins, they don't alternate, no 0v no 9v regardless of magnetic pole. Pin #4 (FG Output doesn't output pulses too).

I also have 3 pin hall sensors but are not so sensitive (2mm max distance). These chinese chip can detect magnets 1inch away from the sensor, and that is pretty good.

Any more help please?

Thanks.
 
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You can all have your little dig on the right of Intellectual property but the fact is, it is a real issue,
Ok i missed the fact the link was to Eastera own site, but all forums need to be vigilant of not hosting pirate information.

Back to the problem at hand.

If you stop and think about how a motor coil works and the test results you have posted it would imply that the sensor needs to see a passing of a north pole and followed by a passing of a south pole (or vise versa) past the sensor before it will toggle the output state.

A face of a coil will have both a north side and a south side, so to prevent double triggering i suspect the chip needs a passing of both poles before it will ouput a response.

Hence if you have 2 magnets 1 x north facing and 1 x south facing and they pass the sensor one after the other you should get a response on the FG pin, it might be a very narrow pulse and hard to detect, but also suspect a north magnet will toggle the FG pin one way and a south magnet will toggle it the other way.

Example:- high output for north and low output for south (or vise versa)

Pete.
 
Nobody is having a dig in intellectual property, whatever that means. We are all merely pointing out that the datasheet has been posted on the internet by the manufacturer, and may be freely distributed. That's what it's there for.
 
I don't have a problem with the datasheet or its legality.

I had a problem with your statement
If it were really confidential, it wouldn't be on the internet
that obviously implies that *anything* on the internet has lost all rights of ownership. Hence my comedic exaggerated examples.

If that was not your meaning, I apologise.

Biboymusic- Most of those analog hall sensors are bridge configuration, the ones common in pancake motor have 4 wires and 4 hall elements in a diagonally opposed bridge, so IF yours is that type you generally attach about 4v to 2 corner pins, and attach the other 2 pins into the differentiual inputs of an opamp.
 
How does it imply that? It's a datasheet. It's meant to inform and educate the user of the specifications that govern the operation of the component. If the manufacturer wanted to make it confidential, then they clearly wouldn’t post it!

This is totally not an ownership issue. Me thinks you tend to overreact.
 
it would imply that the sensor needs to see a passing of a north pole and followed by a passing of a south pole (or vise versa) past the sensor before it will toggle the output state.

It doesn't work that way. I hooked up the coil again but not assembling it as the original motor. By removing and putting a magnet manually over the sensor (facing one pole only), I get pulses from FG. I also thought that maybe the magnets getting near the coil have something to do with it but it doesn't, I soldered the coil away from the sensor.

Most of those analog hall sensors are bridge configuration, the ones common in pancake motor have 4 wires and 4 hall elements in a diagonally opposed bridge, so IF yours is that type you generally attach about 4v to 2 corner pins, and attach the other 2 pins into the differentiual inputs of an opamp.

I don't think its in bridge configuration. Pins #2 and 3 are just alternating Vcc inputs which is the coil driver at the same time.

I guess I'll just have to include the coil to the circuit and it will fix every damn problem.

Thanks all.

P.S. The datasheet was intentionally open to the public according to Eastera. Again, they just meant it as "Copyrighted" not confidential.
 
Sounds like the coil feeds power back to the sensor through its windings, as a coil is not much more than a resistor in this case, you could try replacing the coil with a resistor of a simular value to the resistance of the coil windings.

Pete.
 
Hey pete, I've already did that. That was the first thing that came to my mind since coils = resistance. I measure 120ohms and 80ohms on the the 2 coils, replaced them with trimpots to get the same exact value but it didn't work.

Thanks.
 
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