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Etchant

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hjl4 said:
The fluorescent bulb I use is standard 15watt bulb you can buy for fish tank or desk lamp.(standard frosted fluorescent bulb)
Try it and you'll see.

i use the same, a GE 15 watt T8 18" fluorescent tube, "Daylight Deluxe" (they were 99 cents at a discount store)

I have mine about 4" above the board, and expose for 9-10 min

my boards are a bit too big for one light to handle, I'm watching for another to go on sale so I get good coverage without having to wait forever.

I'm using Philmore Datak positive resist boards, their instructions claim 60-90 sec for UV, 8 min for fluorescent and 10+ for incandescent ... they specificaly say not to use halogen, that a simple 100 watt soft-white incandescent bulb works best
 
Oznog said:
Black light flourescent (not the stupid light bulb painted purple) has tons of UV in the right range.
I use a pair of Philips F15T8/BL bulbs at 6 inches for 90-150 seconds (depending on artwork). Gives me great results, even through the 1/4" plate glass of the contact frame. Here's a couple links for price comparison. Several years ago, I paid about $20US each for them, they're much cheaper now. These were the bulbs specified by the PC board manufacturer.

https://www.bulbdirect.com/catalog.asp?prodid=407483&showprevnext=1
https://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/GUARANTEEDF15T8BL.htm

JB
 
chemelec said:
However you Must have a Good Resist. I'm Not sure if those Laser Printer Transfers are good enough. Never tried that resist process, nor have I used the Peel and Stick stuff.

I've [laser] printed circuits onto the waxed paper back of sticky lables, this transfers very easily to a clean copper surface with a bit of heat from an electric iron.

Then it's straight into the etching bath, clean, drill and use :eek:)

best regards,
colin

--

www.minisumo.org.uk
 
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