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Disintegrating Soldering Iron Tip

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Steelven

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After a few hours practicing desoldering on old computer boards with a cheap RadioShack 40W (~800F) iron, I noticed the very tip started disintegrating. My preparations were instruction manual-perfect; before melting each contact I applied flux to prevent oxidation and improve wetting, and after, to clean oxidation and residue from the tip frequently, I vigorously brushed it with steel wool, which I now figure might be damaging given how abrasive it is and how thin the copper core's protective coating is. Or--without verifying with chemical calculations--I figured the strength of the flux's acid dissolved both the coating and copper, or only the copper after wool exposed it. Furthermore, from what little I've read, 600-700F of 15-25W irons are sufficient for most solder alloys. So is the flux's acid too strong when liquified; the steel wool too abrasive; the soldering iron poor quality or too hot; or a combination?

Thanks
 

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When my tips look like that... I have been running the iron too long too hot.

My iron can sit at 350° all day with no issues. If I jack it up to 400° for some BIG solder work ( earth tabs and so on ), then I have to remember to turn it down as soon as I'm done.

Possibly the nickel is very thin ( being a cheap iron ) but high temps do this....
 
A number of problems here - first off using abrasive and vigorous cleaning of the tip will destroy the coating on it - but why are you using extra flux?, and is it flux specifically designed for electronics use?. Electronics solder has the flux inside the solder already, and you don't need any more - it's also non-corrosive flux, fluxes for plumbing etc. are NOT suitable.
 
The cheap soldering iron is probably not temperature controlled, some say they are but it's just a "power" control, and th iron will overheat when standing.
 
That is an acid flux (zinc chloride and ammonium chloride) intended for general purpose and plumbing. You need a flux for electronics. They are usually identified with the word, "rosin" in the name. Oatey makes such fluxes, as well as rosin flux cored solders for electronics. Is your solder also acid core? If so, don't use it for electronics.

As the others have said, temperature and rough treatment of the tip are probably the main culprits. I use just a wet sponge to clean the tip and then tin it.

John
 
Hi,


I've had so many tips break down over the years i cant even count them all now. The big Weller gun tips are made of pure copper with no plating, so i used to go though them by the dozens.

Same problem with my smaller irons. Some of the plated ones last much much longer though.

Through the years i've learned to make my own tips when possible. Alternate metals although not as good as copper often work good enough when the tip is made shorter. For example, brass and steel are less thermally conductive than copper but if you make a shorter tip and you have an overpowered iron you still solder electrical joints pretty well. By overpowered i mean a slightly higher power iron than normally used (30 watt instead of 20 watt, etc.).

I have a brass tip on one of my irons i've been using for some 10 to 15 years now. I think the screw size was 8-32, so i took a piece of round brass bar stock and used an 8-32 die to put threads on one end, and it screws nicely into the iron. They sell brass stock on the web and in some hardware stores. I think brass is better than steel, but i've also used steel. Even a common 10 penny nail can be used for irons that are large enough, but i've also used 8 penny finishing nails for soldering small ic packages. Cut the head off, stick it in the iron if you have a side screw type iron, or put threads on it and grind the tip to whatever shape you want. Experiment with the length and (if you have it) heat setting.

The brass and steel do break down over time just like copper, but even without plating they last much much longer.
 
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If you are going to use the cheap radio shack irons use the 17W for electronics work. The 40 simply gets too hot and cooks the tip.

Even with the small one you will want to turn it off when not in use and keep it well tinned between making connections. If you do that it will give you more life.
 
Or, use a lamp dimmer to keep it hot, but not cooking. Then, when you are ready to solder, a little tweak will get the heat you need quickly. I do that with my big iron, except I use a Variac.

John
 
I agree with what everyone else has said. Problem 1: You're using acid flux. Problem 2: You're cooking the tip. 40W is much too high. Typical electronics soldering only requires 15W. That's what I have, and it works like a charm. Problem 3: Using abrasive materials creates small crevices in the tip that never see flux, so it eats itself from the inside out.

Also, have you been tinning the tip? You mention adding flux, but you need to apply a thin layer of solder around the tip frequently in addition.

I highly recommend buying a cheap $7 15W pencil-type iron. I bought mine from RadioShack and never once had an issue.

Best wishes,
Matt
 
To eliminate some of the variables and malpractices, I resumed soldering with a 25W Weller while diligently cleaning it with a only a damp cloth; tinning it; and avoiding refluxing before desoldering. In spite of all these precautions, its tip suffered the same fate. The advice which I neglected, however, was to unplug it throughout the couple hours' practice.

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Nigel Goodwin : "...but why are you using extra flux?, and is it flux specifically designed for electronics use?"

The extra flux is both to prevent oxidation on the soldering iron tip and IC component leads, which is catalyzed during heating, and to improve the wetting of the solder so that the tip wicks the solder away from the joint, which is improved if the first purpose is simultaneously occurring, creating somewhat of a synergistic technique. And apparently, that flux type isn't compatible with electronics, according to a few of the replies.

Jpanhalt : "Is your solder also acid core?"

No, it is Weller 60/40 rosin core.

DerStrom8 : "...have you been tinning the tip?"

Yes, but only for damage's visibility in the photo did it remain untinned.
 
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Nigel Goodwin : "...but why are you using extra flux?, and is it flux specifically designed for electronics use?"

The extra flux is both to prevent oxidation on the soldering iron tip and IC component leads, which is catalyzed during heating, and to improve the wetting of the solder so that the tip wicks the solder away from the joint, which is improved if the first purpose is simultaneously occurring, creating somewhat of a synergistic technique. And apparently, that flux type isn't compatible with electronics, according to a few of the replies.

You don't need extra flux, it's inside the solder - while extra flux is VERY, VERY occasionally useful, it's not needed (or of any use) for general electronics assembly.

Your 60/40 rosin core solder is all you need.
 
You don't need extra flux, it's inside the solder - while extra flux is VERY, VERY occasionally useful, it's not needed (or of any use) for general electronics assembly.

Remember that I'm desoldering, thus with above reasons, refluxing seemed prudent.
 
Protecting the plating on a tip from mechanical wear is very important. Use of steel wool, sand paper, or a file to clean a tip is about the worst thing you can do to it. Also, when desoldering, you need to be careful that you aren't using the tip as a pry bar to loosen the parts as that can also damage the tip plating.

As soon as a hole or crack opens up in the plating, the solder gets in to the copper and starts to disolve the tip from the inside. This was discussed in another thread a few months back.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/unplated-soldering-iron-tip.131089/
 
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