Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
thank you for replay
I making small 10 pcb's on 6 by 8 board and it takes so much time with hacksaw . I use paper cutter but sometimes its not straight on the end on the line.
What model ? I am not too good with that , can you just tell me what model you use and what table and how to put all things together .
and where to buy ( in Canada ) Thanks
Fiberglass will wear down a toothed blade very, very quickly.
I have a scroll saw. I bought a whole roll of raw carbide grit bandsaw blade (got a bandsaw too). It has no teeth, just abrasive carbide bonded to the blade.
I cut a piece off the roll and put it into the scroll saw. Works like a dream- smoothly cuts through it equally well on the upstroke and downstroke. Never wears down.
thanks , could you post a picture of your cutting tool with a table . I cant figure out how to put all things , I need to cut a lot boards and they should be all the same size .
I could never get my boards to cut straight, probably because I didnt put enough effort into it.
www.allelectronics.com has 4"x6" single sided boards for only 2 bucks, so I've bought a bunch of them, and since most of my circuits are pretty big, they fill the board up quite well, no cutting needed .
If you're going to be going into PCB making in a big way, Kepro makes a very nice PCB shear that'll handle up to about 12 inches width. Of course, it costs around $400, but it's what I used the most since our school could afford such nice things.
At home, I've use a hacksaw blade cut and ground to fit my old 1950s Craftsman scroll saw, but as mentioned, fiberglass eats up such blades fairly fast, but it wasn't too bad.
I like the idea of making a tiny little table saw using the Dremel cut-off wheels. That would make a nice project and a good use for a Dremel flexible shaft. You just have to be careful of side thrust so that you don't break the fragile little blades. Danged things cut right through steel nails but break into a million pieces if you drop them.
Scoring works OK for phenolic but fiberglass isn't so easy to work with like that. Don't forget to wear breathing and eye protection whenever you generate the fine fiberglass dust that results from machining the stuff and have the propensity to shatter bits and blades running at high speeds.
A Much Smarter Approach: I have been using 1/32 PCB for about 20 years. It is 1/2 the normal thickness, Very Flexable compared to normal PCB, Cheaper and you can EASILY cut it with a good pair of Scissors.
My PCB also has 2 ounce copper, a bonus for higher current, but a bit slower etching.
The ONLY Drawback on this Thinner circuit board is "If you want it to plug into Edge Connectors". Its a bit too thin.
a dremel is a hand tool they can be bought at pep boys and sears and such..the one i have did not come with all these attachments.. but you can find them individually...
its not the fiberglass that dulls your blades , .. its the copper..
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