Components keep falling off !!

[Megamox]

Usually i use a bit of bluetack to hold components in place, so that when i turn the boards over to solder them they stay in place. I know if i could hold them all at once, i could solder the whole board quicker!! But if i put too many on at a time, they either all bend, or fall off, such a hassle. How do you guys do it?

Megamox

 

[audioguru]

I use green masking tape. When the parts cool, it doesn't leave its adhesive behind like ordinary masking tape.

 

[Joel Rainville]

One at a time?

 

[Styx]

Aspestos finger-tips.
After time you can hold a leaded resistor in place and solder it down (for trough-hole) without you even feeling it

remember you dont need to do a full,good solder for the first leg. Just a kind-of tacking solder to allow you then to do a propper solder on the other leg and then finish the first

 

[chemelec]

I Put Most or All the Resistors on the board first. Than I place a Piece of Thick Felt (or Cardboard) over them. Now turn the board Over and they all stay in place as you lay it down.
And The Soft Felt Protects them from Damage.
(Actually I use a Piece of Ozite, Indoor/Outdoor Carpet)

Repeat next with Smaller Caps, Than IC Sockets and lastly Larger Parts.

Quite Often I just Solder ONE Wire of Each Part. Than Flip Board to check Alignment, Before Continuing to Solder the other Lead or Leads.

Works Very Well.

 

[bloody-orc]

even better is to use as much as possible SMD components. you dont need to hold them from the other side

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

It all depends on the components, for resistors and capacitors I usually fit them a few at a time, and bend the leads over slightly to hold them in place. For something like an IC socket I'll fit them one at a time, and hold them in place with a finger while I solder them.

I've NEVER considered using blue tack or tape, or any method of holding them in place - there doesn't seem any point, or advantage?.

 

[Megamox]

Maybe im not dexterous enough but it seems that i can do better joints when im only holding the iron and solder, anything else and the iron is shaking all over the place! before you know it something slips, while trying to catch it you end up soldering an eyebrow

Megamox

 

[roboticmisinfo]

I have a little PCB work frame (well actually it's a bit big & bulky but anyway...) which has a sponge lid. You can position the frame a bit like a graphic drawing board. You put all your components in place, then clip in the circuit board with the adjustable sliders and tighten the sponge pad onto the back. It cost around £120 I think from R.S, but I managed to get mine for £30 off eBay Bit of an expensive one I suppose, but when I decide to do something (i.e. build a work bench) I do it properly.... :lol:

Mike

 

[Mike - K8LH]

I solder in order of lowest profile, that is, the lowest profile smd parts, then 1/8th watt through hole resistors, then the machined pin IC sockets, on up to the highest profile components... Insert a couple parts, lay a pad of paper over the components, flip over the pad and pcb, place gentle pressure on the pcb while using both hands for soldering... Works great...

Good luck... Regards, Mike

 

[audioguru]

I also solder items having the same height at the same time. I stretch my green masking tape fairly tight over them to hold them in place while I turn the pcb over. Then my workbench holds them as I solder them.
Duh! When I remove the tape and there is a part on it then I know that I missed soldering it. :lol:

 

[mstechca]

Usually i use a bit of bluetack to hold components in place, so that when i turn the boards over to solder them they stay in place. I know if i could hold them all at once, i could solder the whole board quicker!! But if i put too many on at a time, they either all bend, or fall off, such a hassle. How do you guys do it?
Megamox

I never had a problem with parts falling off of the board.

Why don't you just bend the leads after putting them through the holes?

It's the 90 degree bends, as well as the width of the component that holds it in place. It's like putting a water tube around a fat (not-so-skinny) kid :lol:

Yes, the leads MUST bend in this case, but it is to your advantage.

After all, the circuit you are building is "supposed" to work, or you wouldn't be at that stage.

 

[Megamox]

Never actually thought of bending the leads, ill try that, thanks.

Megamox

 

[windozeuser]

yes, I always put my components through the holes, and bend the leads flush with the solder side of the board. Holds them in quite nicely.

 

[Megamox]

I suppose its a good idea to bend them at different angles so you dont end up soldering one lead to another lead.

 

[mstechca]

I suppose its a good idea to bend them at different angles so you dont end up soldering one lead to another lead.

90 degrees is usually OK unless the component leads exposed on the component side of the board are touching each other.

Short leads are better, unless in very rare cases, you need a track that has extremely low resistance and inductance. That should only happen if you are making a UHF or a radio device with an extremely high frequency.

If you have fine tools, try to have the lead length to only 2mm + the width of the board, so that the chances of one lead running into the next is slim.

 

[windozeuser]

Well, yes you bend them solder them then snip them. That's how I always do it.

 

[DigiTan]

That's what I do too. Is the green tape audo referred to also called 'painters tape' in some shops?

 

[audioguru]

Yeah, the green tape is for painters 'cause its adhesive is mild and doesn't pull paint off walls.
It comes in different qualities. I have one that melts all over the place, then is way too sticky when it has cooled.

 

[mstechca]

Well, yes you bend them solder them then snip them. That's how I always do it.

yes, but that order isn't the best order.

You:

1. snip (cut to minimal length, but not too short)
2. insert (insert it into the PCB)
3. bend (at 90 degrees)
4. solder

EDIT: I forgot to mention that TAPE is not a recommended item for holding components, especially when heat is close to them. Tape is not designed for hot environments.