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Choosing a connector for automotive circuit

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Rusttree

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I'm working on a circuit that will handle the starter, ignition, and accessories for an automobile. I went looking for a connector to connect the PCB to the various automobile systems and I was immediately overwhelmed. Searching for "connector" in Digikey gives a jaw-dropping number of subcategories. Mouser has a category called "automotive connectors", but none of them seem to be what I'm looking for.

I'm imagining a fairly beefy connector with thick male pins to handle the large amp load. Right-angle, throughole PCB mount. And a corresponding pluggable female mate that brings the wires from the automobile systems to the board.

Can anyone suggest keywords or categories I should use to help reduce my search? Perhaps just a suggestion as to which subcategory to click on in the Digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=connector&stock=1

Thanks!
 
Depending on how many pins you need, the **broken link removed** series might work for you. I use these on all my ham rigs, d.c. distribution, battery chargers, etc.
 
How about mouser.com and search for 12110259 These are 5A. There is a right angle PCB mount. Then the other part of the connector consists of 3 parts and pins.

Go here **broken link removed** also.

Use Automotive connector for search terms.
 
Perhaps one of these for PC board mounting would work. They are available in from 2 to 24 circuits.
 
Just remember that automotive applications have tons and tons of vibration involved and the connectors have to survive that and not come loose. And don't forget that you need to be using stranded wire for all automotive wiring -- solid wire quickly breaks under vibration.
 
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Thanks all for the suggestions. I feel little less overwhelmed by choices now. I'll look into these links and see what I can come up with.
 
Do tell us what your conclusion was based on. Some idea of the max number of circuits and currents would have been a tiny bit helpful later on. I'm working on a project that just uses the connectors I mentioned as part of the OEM device. What I found is that some of the connectors of that style are made of unobtanium. The OEM can have a custom connector made with different keying options. Locations of grooves on the connector. They typically change the color of the connector in the process. So, in this case color also determines the keying structure, but only one keying option may be available for sale.
 
you need to know magnitude of currents before you can pick connectors. i was using MiniFit Jr on some applications and they worked well. they are rated for some 10-13A, but also survived a lot of abuse quite well as long as they were not connected/disconnected under those conditions (for example tested occasional excess current that was twice the connector rating for couple of seconds, wires would start to melt but not the connectors). if you need higher current, you can always parallel pins to share current (see derating instructions). when assigning pins make sure that high current contacts are far from each other or you have to derate. also important is to look at your PCB. unlesss specified explicitly, PCB manufacturers will assume that your designs use 1 or 0.5oz/ft^2. depending on width of your PCB tracks, you may need more than that (2,3 or even 4 oz/ft^2) or multilayer board (inner layers can carry less current because they are enclosed and don't get cooling). most PCBs are at least 2 layers so be aware of current capacity of both tracks and vias (you can place several vias near each other to get better connection between tracks on different layers). if you can take a look at existing designs (pcbs with 6 or 8-way switches in power seats are designed just as i described, they use high current switches, multilayer boards with lots of vias and blade style high current Alps connectors)
 
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(you can place several vias near each other to get better connection between tracks on different layers)
That's the technique I'm using as well. I'm trying this on a 2-layer, but I think the final production design will move to a 4-layer because of the current loads. For now, the current path straight in from the car battery is 3/4" wide down the side of the board, top and bottom layers of copper connected by a bunch of vias. All of the other pours that carry larger amounts of current are also done in a similar way. Here's a snapshot of the side of my board. I just put a bunch of large vias at the top to simulator where the connector will go.
 
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Vehicle wiring products supply proper connector systems for vehicles, you can get the same connectors used by the major manufacturers from them, do a google.
'SWP' series are used by a few manufacturers for signal and low current connection, and 'power pole' range I've seen used on mobile plant, you can snap together single pole connections to make up a custom plug/socket, plug and socket are the same - hope I spell this right - hermaphrodite.
I used some a while back to install a competetion engine management system on my mates zx1000.
1/4" lucars seem to be the most common, but you'd not get a watertight connection with those.
Anderson connectors are popular with mobile plant battery terminations and also breakdwon vehicles often have them fitted so they can give someone a jump start easily, they are available to over 1000 amps rating.

**broken link removed**
 
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As long as you are not looking to pass the current of a starter motor which can easily exceed 150A on a basic diesel car , Molex and AMP(henol) are common automotive connectors.
 
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