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Changing direction of Synchronous-Reversible AC Motor

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pleasedontfront

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Hello,

I am trying to figure out how to change the direction of a 2 RPM, AC, Synchronous-Reversible Holzer and Cabot Motor.

Here is a wiring diagram and photo of the current setup:

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**


Basically I just need to figure out what kind of component I need to switch the direction of the motor. Something that can connect between the existing capacitor-switch setup and the motor would be best since I can get the correct outlet and plug for such a connection. I'm including a photo of the setup as-is in addition to the wiring diagram.

Link to plug and outlet:

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/s...tEmOg==&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/s...Pw4eCZG&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

Preferably the male plug would insert into the existing switch/capacitor box, connect to the direction changing component, which would connect to the female outlet, which would connect to the existing male plug (direct line to the motor).

Thanks for you help!
 
Yes, an SPDT switch will work.

It swaps black and red.
 

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make sure both windings (blue-black & blue-red) are equal by atleast measuring the the winding resistances. since its reversible motor, i hope there wont be any problem.
 
Most small fractional HP AC Synchronous motors I have worked with would be wired per the attached. I may be wrong but this is how I have done it. I did omit the On/Off switch and the drawing is sort of crude.

Ron
 

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Yes, an SPDT switch will work.

It swaps black and red.

Could the SPDT switch be added after the existing SPST switch and capacitor? Or would that change the resistance too much?

Like this:

**broken link removed**

Or would I need to add another capacitor in there after the SPDT switch?

You see I'm trying to do this without messing with any of the existing circuitry since the device is not mine and the owner prefers for me to no make any drastic changes to his original setup.
 
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Most small fractional HP AC Synchronous motors I have worked with would be wired per the attached. I may be wrong but this is how I have done it. I did omit the On/Off switch and the drawing is sort of crude.

Ron


check your drawing, ,may be there is a mistake,

normally in both directions, one winding would be directly connecting to mains and other would be connected in series with the capacitor to have considerable phase difference so that to provide enough starting torque.
 
check your drawing, ,may be there is a mistake,

normally in both directions, one winding would be directly connecting to mains and other would be connected in series with the capacitor to have considerable phase difference so that to provide enough starting torque.

Normally in small fractional HP (less than 1/4 HP) gear motors it is exactly as you stated with the windings spaced 90 degrees apart and a capacitor placed in series with one winding or the other to cause a 90 degree phase lag in the current. Should be like the attached images.

I guess I am having a problem physically seeing the inside of the motor and how the capacitor is switched. I have one such motor in front of me and it is a 120 VAC 60 Hz. fan that is reversible. It works like the drawing I did. A few years ago I set up a small reversible gear motor the same way and it worked just fine too.

I am just missing something about how the inside is wired?

Ron
 

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Hello! I have a garage door opener that I would like to repair. I am posting here because it seems to have a Synchronous-Reversible AC Motor. It runs ok but usually will not start in either direction. What got me to post this is there is a black capacitor, with two poles, that when idle both have 120VAC on the terminals, When running there is 117 VAC on one terminal and almost 0 VAC on the other. One person told me it was just a start capacitor. To my thinking if it was taken out of the circuit the voltage to it would be switched off and both poles would be dead or the switch would be after the cap and both would still be hot. Ok what am I missing here ?? Oh and if you turn it to close the contacts close and it runs in the closed direction until it hits the ens and stops and then immediately runs the other direction until it stops. So it seems the directional control is lost ... I replaced the cap a while back ... I got as close as I could find on size ...
Any help here would be appreciated! Thanks and God bless! Joe
P. S. if there is 120 VAC on the hot terminal should I not be able to hook up a incandescent drop light to the terminal loosing power and ground and be able to see if the cap will conduct?
 
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Leave the post where you originally had it. Adding to old threads and moving things around will only serve to confuse people. I believe THIS POST and THREAD were your original. Not trying to memberate but you really don't want to start copy and pasting the original question in other threads.

Ron
 
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