Capacitor to power a device during vehicle cranking.

[Jaguarjoe]

Even 300ma is probably 10X what it ought to be.

What's different between the 05 sensors and the 07 sensors?

Do you have a website for the module?

How about Megasquirt?

 

[adamey]

This makes no sense to me. If you bought a module to convert the signals, then who makes the module? It seems very odd to me that a manufacturer making a product for use in an automotive environment wouldn't have taken into account operation during engine cranking/low battery voltage. What if all engine ECU's did this? You'd never be able to start a car.

I'm really interested in who makes the convertor.

 

[czwalga00gt]

This makes no sense to me. If you bought a module to convert the signals, then who makes the module? It seems very odd to me that a manufacturer making a product for use in an automotive environment wouldn't have taken into account operation during engine cranking/low battery voltage. What if all engine ECU's did this? You'd never be able to start a car.

I'm really interested in who makes the convertor.

Lingenfelter. Only one who makes something for this situation so the options were limited.

The module does work, but when the battery gets even a little low it doesnt work. Like I said the car will still crank so the batterys not that far gone...

 

[Jaguarjoe]

Is this it:

**broken link removed**

 

[czwalga00gt]

Is this it:

**broken link removed**

yep.

....

 

[Jaguarjoe]

So you are not massaging the CPS and CMP sensors? Instead you are adapting a 60-2 tooth wheel to a 24 tooth ECU along with a 4 tooth cam to the one tooth ECU?

 

[adamey]

I think you need a new (maybe even bigger) battery. And possiibly even some better cables from the battery to the engine & ground. I doubt a Lingenfelter module would be so crappy as to stop working when the voltage drops when cranking.

IMO, trying to provide better power to the module is a band-aid for some other problem.

 

[Diver300]

In the days before car ignition systems had ballast resistors, a lot of cars wouldn't actually fire while the starter was running. They would only start when the battery voltage recovered as the starter was turned off, but the engine was still turning fast enough.

Technique was all important here, because you had to crank it for a short time and then release the starter button when the engine was going fast enough to fire. The more recent technique of operating the starter and letting go when you heard the engine fire simply didn't work. If you tried that, the battery would soon be flattened and the cranking rate would slow, and the battery would not recover fast enough when you let go of the starter.

If you're not wanting lots of people to drive the car, it might be quite simple to try a different starting technique. It's certainly a cheap solution.

However, if the Lingenfelter module has been designed sufficiently badly not to work at around 6 V, it might take some time to start working when the battery voltage recovers and so the engine will have stopped before the the module works.

I learned to drive in my mother's 1953 MG (YB model). It never started until I let go of the starter button. However, I could use the crank handle if needed.

As an example of how much technique matters, quite a few years ago I was helping a work colleague get his Honda going. The ignition switch was excessively complicated and had a heater output so the sequence was:-

Off
Aux ...... Radio only on
Ign ....... Radio, heaters and ignition on
Start ..... Ignition and starter motor on

The idea was to save the battery by turning the heaters off during cranking. Unfortunately, cramming all of that into a small switch meant that it couldn't take the current and the ignition feed part of the switch burned out.

When I realised that, as a temporary measure until a new switch arrived, I disconnected the heater feed, and connected the ignition feed to the heater terminal on the switch, so the sequence became:-

Off
Aux ...... Radio only on
Ign ....... Radio, ignition on
Start ..... Starter motor on

So then the car would not start when the key was turned, but the starter would turn the engine, and when I let go, the ignition would come on and the engine would start.

Well I could start this car every time. The owner could never get it to start. He only had to turn the key and let go about 1 - 2 seconds later, but he was too used to turning the key and holding it there until he heard the engine fire. He got the car towed to a garage and a new switch fitted there.

 

[shortbus=]

Diver300 - Yes, but the MG used electrics by LUCAS,prince of darkness

 

[Diver300]

Diver300 - Yes, but the MG used electrics by LUCAS,prince of darkness

True, but it works so much better than the rubbish Honda put on a small motorbike 30 years later. That had the 25 W headlight connected straight to the alternator, and it used the battery as a regulator for the supply to the brake light and indicators. It couldn't get though the UK driving test without the battery running flat. A top speed of 60 - 70 mph combined with a single 25 W headlight, and the worst beam pattern on dip that I have ever experienced made night time driving more interesting than it should have been.

I changed it to 12 V, fitted a Cibie headlight that had a proper dip pattern and was 55 / 60 W halogen. I fitted electronic ignition and a voltage regulator on the DC supply and flasher unit that started on the "on" cycle not the "off" cycle. That lot just about worked.

The only lighting change we've had to do on the MG was adding flashing indicators about 30 years ago. The semaphore indicators still work, but stopped being understood by other drivers. It also had to have a second brake light instead of the reversing light, as that became law just before it was registered.