Black Market Replacement LIGHT BULBS

[gary350]

These 6 bad light bulbs are xenon 12v 5w and cost $42 to replace. Black Market Prices at Home Depot and Lowe's. Photo only shows 5 bulbs because 1 got lost.


**broken link removed**


I found these replacements on ebay $7.59 for 10 lights. Picture shows these lite up only in the tip end but AD says 360 degree lights. What are the yellow color squares do those all light up? Are these a type of LED light?

I bought 10 of these.

.

 

[rmn_tech]

The yellow squares are LED's and yes they will light up.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Do you mean halogen?

They look like #194 or #193 lamps.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I sure am glad I bought 20 cases of 100w incandescent light bulbs and 20 cases of 60w incandescent light bulbs before they became illegal.

Why?, LED ones are six times or so cheaper to run, give a brighter purer light, and last a great deal longer than the filament ones. The small halogen bulbs you showed are particularly short lived.

I'm 100% LED lighting at home now.

 

[audioguru]

The USA seller knows nothing about cheap Chinese LED lightbulbs so he touched up the photo of one turned off with bright light on its tip.

 

[dr pepper]

Those capless bulbs are around 50p at my supplier.

If you put led lights in sidelights then you might get a bulb blown warning on your dash, as the current drawn by the leds is less, making a blown bulb monitor think the bulb has blown.

 

[Reloadron]

The bulbs shown look like everyday 1250X2 Xenon lamps which run about a buck each or less. Eico makes them as well as CML (Chicago Miniature Lamp). CML and other manufacturers are also marketing a pretty wide range of LED miniature lamps in all of the popular bases and voltages. Nice stuff, works fine and last a long, long time.

I just refinished the pantry room and went with 3 Cree LED floods (Daylight) 75 W from Home Depot. Damn things are impressive and do a great job in this small room. Got a good deal as the lamps retail for $20 EA but two had packaging damage so I got all 3 for $50. Now at 65 and considering pantry lamp use I should be long dead before those ever need replaced.

Ron

 

[tcmtech]

Same thoughts here as well. I can get those bulbs at the local autoparts places for under $1 each or by the pocket full for free from the local salvage yards.

 

[Tony Stewart]

These bulbs cost ~$0.25 to make in volume and SMD LED's have been around for a long time.
**broken link removed**

although a poor selection of bulb replacements, but not too bad.

https://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?FV=fff40008,fff8028b&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=1000009&page=1&stock=1&pbfree=0&rohs=0&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500

 

[gary350]

The replacement light bulbs arrived. There is a problem. Each socket has a place for 2 bulbs. Each socket has 1 of the old style incandescent so I put 1 of the new LED replacements in the other hole. I turned it on and it works good. The new LED lights make better light so I removed the 6 incandescent bulbs and replaced them with 6 LED bulbs. When I turned it on the 12 LED lights blink ON/OFF about 1 time per second. I put the incandescent bulbs in again and it stops blinking. I put the LED lights in and it blinks again. With the power ON, I replace 1 LED light at a time with an the lights blink faster and faster each time I replace another LED lights with incandescent.

With 6 incandescent bulbs and 6 LED lights it does ok, no blinking. With 12 LED lights it blinks like a strobe. 11 LED lights and 1 incandescent it blinks faster. 10 LED lights and 2 incandescent it blinks faster. 9 LED lights and 3 incandescent it blinks even faster and so on. When I get to 6 LED lights and 6 incandescent it apparently blinks so fast it appears to be ON all the time.

There is a power supply under the kitchen cabnet, flat black box 1" x 3" x 7" that converts 120 vac to 12 volts.

For some reason the incandescent bulbs keep it from blinking???

 

[dr pepper]

Some smps's need a minimum load to work, theres not alot you can do apart from retain just enough filament bulbs to stop it from flashing.

 

[Reloadron]

Well if dr pepper is on target with the problem then placing a small load on the power supply should fix the problem. This means placing a resistor across the power supply to serve as a load. The original bulbs are 13.5 V rated and I haven't a clue what the normal current is? I also haven't a clue what the power supply is rated at? Try a small power resistor across the power supply to act as a load and keep the supply up.

Ron

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Well if dr pepper is on target with the problem then placing a small load on the power supply should fix the problem. This means placing a resistor across the power supply to serve as a load. The original bulbs are 13.5 V rated and I haven't a clue what the normal current is? I also haven't a clue what the power supply is rated at? Try a small power resistor across the power supply to act as a load and keep the supply up.

Better to simply buy a specific LED driver PSU - these cheaply and easily available from China, on Ebay, Bangood etc.

Seems pretty pointless having low energy efficient LED lights and then sticking a huge great resistive heater in circuit to make them work.

Just done the same at work, for a load of under counter lights.

 

[tcmtech]

If it was me I would replace the cheap power supply with a common wall wart unit now being the LED's use such low power and wall wart power supplies do not need a minimum load to stay working.

 

[audioguru]

The voltage of most wall warts is not regulated so the voltage skyrockets if they do not have their rated load. Pick one with a current rating close to what the LEDs will require.

 

[JonSea]

Audioguru,

You're behind the times. True, conventional transformer-based linear wall warts have poor regulation. But modern switcher-based wall warts have very good regulation vs. load. Most flat a pretty flat voltage output up to their rated current draw, then the voltage falls off quickly so the supply protects itself against overloads.

Here's an article I posted at Digital-DIY, in which are voltage vs. load plots for a number of different wall warts:

AC-DC Power Supplies – Using Wall Warts

 

[Reloadron]

Better to simply buy a specific LED driver PSU - these cheaply and easily available from China, on Ebay, Bangood etc.

Seems pretty pointless having low energy efficient LED lights and then sticking a huge great resistive heater in circuit to make them work.

Just done the same at work, for a load of under counter lights.

I agree Nigel, simply replace the counter lights. But my guess if not replacing the PSU would be to try a load on it. My counters? I would just replace the entire system and kitchen rework is looming on the horizon.

Ron

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I agree Nigel, simply replace the counter lights. But my guess if not replacing the PSU would be to try a load on it. My counters?

We had the same problem, but we were fitting new lights in a new apartment build, and fitted LED's in the fittings - and the 'transformer' we had wouldn't work without a much higher load on it. So we ordered a correct LED PSU, dead cheap and cured the problem 100%.

The wall wart solution isn't a good one, because it's supposed to be permanently wired into the lighting circuit, not plugged in a mains socket.