Best way to start making PCB's

[danrogers]

Hi all, Im fairly new to electronics and circuit design but I would like to build some PCB's. Starting with a simple design for some RGB led arrays.

I have no idea where to start, and dont have any experience with CAD software either so it would be great if someone could explain the best way to start out.

Thanks for reading

 

[Boncuk]

Hi,

download Eagle light (free version) from CadSoft Online: EAGLE Layout Editor.

Play a bit and don't forget to read the tutorial. You'll find out that one can really work with it.

Boncuk

 

[danrogers]

Thanks Boncuk! Going to have a read through now

So I guess that covers the design aspect but what about the physical production of boards? Ive noticed some bits for etching i think they call it in Maplins but I have no idea how to use or what exactly to use?

Cheers

 

[mvs sarma]

Hi,

download Eagle light (free version) from CadSoft Online: EAGLE Layout Editor.

Play a bit and don't forget to read the tutorial. You'll find out that one can really work with it.

Boncuk

Hi, Any simple way to print the artwork as Negative (not mirror) on laser printer like HP P1007

 

[DirtyLude]

There's two popular methods. Toner Transfer, which is where the design is laser printed to a compatible photo paper and ironed on, then etched. Then there's the photo method where the design is printed to clear plastic and the board is exposed to UV light. You'll need specific boards and developer for this.

Both methods are talked about extensively on this forum if you search for those keywords. Also there are a bunch of tutorials/instructables and discussions on both if you google them.

 

[mvs sarma]

There's two popular methods. Toner Transfer, which is where the design is laser printed to a compatible photo paper and ironed on, then etched. Then there's the photo method where the design is printed to clear plastic and the board is exposed to UV light. You'll need specific boards and developer for this.

Both methods are talked about extensively on this forum if you search for those keywords. Also there are a bunch of tutorials/instructables and discussions on both if you google them.

DirtyLude, I got you. Thanks. I have been practicing TTS method
We get a dry transfer film. It is negative working. The PCB manufacturers use it for sample making and submission. The positive pre-sensitized boards are not available in our nation. with reference to that I had sought the suggestion as to how make a negative laser print. Some CAM software is said to be used, but i didn't properly get the concept.

 

[DirtyLude]

DirtyLude, I got you. Thanks. I have been practicing TTS method

I understand why you want negative printing. My post was solely a response to the original poster. Your post didn't exist when I started writing. Having said that, I have no idea how to do this, but I remember I saw another post about it. The solution doesn't sound that great, but it supposedly works.

SparkFun Electronics :: View topic - negative artwork

 

[danrogers]

Thanks Lude, will have a seach now I've got some terms to search on.

Thanks mate

 

[mvs sarma]

I understand why you want negative printing. My post was solely a response to the original poster. Your post didn't exist when I started writing. Having said that, I have no idea how to do this, but I remember I saw another post about it. The solution doesn't sound that great, but it supposedly works.

SparkFun Electronics :: View topic - negative artwork

Thanks
Philba did some work on that
i put a request to him for an update
thanks for the link

 

[nigelwright7557]

Negative printing is done by the PCBCAD software.

 

[Boncuk]

Hi, Any simple way to print the artwork as Negative (not mirror) on laser printer like HP P1007

Hi mvs,

I suppose you want to use differential etching. (PCB material with 5µm of copper layer and add another 30µm for traces and througholes by plating, then etching the 5µm layer)

Eagle doesn't offer the choice of negative (inverse) printing.

However you might print a positive image on a tranparency and make a negative contact film of the print. Negative film material is available in DIN-A4 and DIN-A3 size at well assorted photo shops.

Another way: Find a print store with a reproduction camera equipment. They will invert your positive print.

Regards

Boncuk

 

[Boncuk]

Thanks Boncuk! Going to have a read through now

So I guess that covers the design aspect but what about the physical production of boards? Ive noticed some bits for etching i think they call it in Maplins but I have no idea how to use or what exactly to use?

Cheers

Hi Dan,

there are many ways to produce a PCB, depending on time and quality requirements.

Here are some starting at the most primitive method:

- Asphalt laquer - Print your layout mirrored (on normal paper), cut the film to size and fix it on the PCB material using adhesive tape. Poke small holes (for pads) through the paper into the copper clad, remove the paper and use a fine brush and asphalt laquer to "reproduce" the print. The poked holes will be scaled 100% if the print is not distorted. When done etch the board.

- Toner transfer - there are forum members who swear on toner transfer method. There are specialized online shops offering the entire spectrum of paper and other utilities for toner transfer.

- Photo method - The PCB layout is printed on a thin transparency. The transparency should face the photosensive PCB with the toner in contact with the sensitive layer for least overexposure around pads and traces (reflection and defraction). The PCB will be exposed by UV-light, developed and etched.

- Gerber photoplot - Gerber photoplotters are pretty expensive, but the most accurate way to transfer an image either directly onto the PCB or on a transparency. Print stores (making advertising material) normally are equipped with Gerber photoplotters. Take along your Eagle install software and the file you want to print and politely ask the guys to make a print of your artwork.

Let them make the settings of the CAM-job, since there are different versions of Gerber in use.

Dont' forget to take along a 6-pack. It will pay for future projects.

Hope the introduction helped you a bit.

Regards

Boncuk

 

[mvs sarma]

Negative printing is done by the PCBCAD software.

Thanks. Perhaps also by sprint layout software. But we need to abandon what we knew and learn another package from beginning.

 

[mvs sarma]

Hi mvs,

I suppose you want to use differential etching. (PCB material with 5µm of copper layer and add another 30µm for traces and througholes by plating, then etching the 5µm layer)

Eagle doesn't offer the choice of negative (inverse) printing.

However you might print a positive image on a tranparency and make a negative contact film of the print. Negative film material is available in DIN-A4 and DIN-A3 size at well assorted photo shops.

Another way: Find a print store with a reproduction camera equipment. They will invert your positive print.

Regards

Boncuk

Many thanks Boncuk !!

 

[3v0]

It looks like the CAM processor will produce a negative image post script file.

 

[Boncuk]

It looks like the CAM processor will produce a negative image post script file.

Indeed it does!

Gerber plots are based on minimum material to waste.

Using 5µm of copper clad initially the plating process adds another 35µm of copper on the PCB and in through-holes.

Areas and pads alreay having the thickness of 5µm will have the final thickness of 40µm. Througholes will be "filled" with 35µm of copper (initially zero).

Differential etching has to remove just 5µm of copper for a clean and absolutely true image on the PCB, leaving 35µm (1 oz) and 30 µm in through-holes.

Want 2 oz of copper? No problem!

PCB-manufacturers do the same with just a little add-on for the final invoice.

I "manufactured" lots of PCBs using differential etching, but none was close to perfect industrial quality (except for those having been printed by a Gerber photoplotter)

FIND A LOCAL PRINT SHOP!

Regards to all

Boncuk

 

[Boncuk]

It looks like the CAM processor will produce a negative image post script file.

Indeed it does!

Gerber plots are based on minimum material to waste.

Using 5µm of copper clad initially the plating process adds another 35µm of copper on the PCB and in through-holes.

Areas and pads alreay having the thickness of 5µm will have the final thickness of 40µm. Througholes will be "filled" with 35µm of copper (initially zero).

Differential etching has to remove just 5µm of copper for a clean and absolutely true image on the PCB, leaving 35µm (1 oz) and 30 µm in through-holes.

Want 2 oz of copper? No problem!

PCB-manufacturers do the same with just a little add-on for the final invoice.

I "manufactured" lots of PCBs using differential etching, but none was close to perfect industrial quality (except for those having been printed by a Gerber photoplotter)

FIND A LOCAL PRINT SHOP!

Regards to all

Boncuk

 

[thorn1]

Hi Dan,

there are many ways to produce a PCB, depending on time and quality requirements.

...

- Photo method - The PCB layout is printed on a thin transparency. The transparency should face the photosensive PCB with the toner in contact with the sensitive layer for least overexposure around pads and traces (reflection and defraction). The PCB will be exposed by UV-light, developed and etched.

I have a image that I made from a board I want to make. Can one just print it on any type of transparency "paper" from a laser printer? And where can you get the chemicals and photo sensitive boards from?
Thanks.

 

[Boncuk]

I have a image that I made from a board I want to make. Can one just print it on any type of transparency "paper" from a laser printer? And where can you get the chemicals and photo sensitive boards from?
Thanks.

Hi thorn1,

best way to make transparencies is using the printer manufacturer's transparencies which are not made of paper. They look as clear as glass (also used for overhead projections).

I don't know your location and therefor can't tell where to get photosensitive PCB material. Any no-name product of photosensitive PCBs requires test exposure and development due to inconsistence of the film applied (different mixture and different film thickness).

Since I use to order my stuff in Germany I order photosensitive PCBs at Bungard Elektronik which is well known for consistent photoresistive material in Germany.

To develop the UV light exposed PCB you might purchase natriumhydroxyde (chemiacal formula: NaOH) and use 7g dissolved in one liter of lukewarm water. I guess you can buy it at any drugstore (it's also used to produce soap) or at your local electronics hobby shop as well as etching agents. Very common is ferric cloride (FeCl), an amber stuff which makes awefully ugly spots on your clothes and fingers, but also removes the unwanted copper of your PCB.

Boncuk

 

[thorn1]

Hi thorn1,

best way to make transparencies is using the printer manufacturer's transparencies which are not made of paper. They look as clear as glass (also used for overhead projections).

I don't know your location and therefor can't tell where to get photosensitive PCB material. Any no-name product of photosensitive PCBs requires test exposure and development due to inconsistence of the film applied (different mixture and different film thickness).

Since I use to order my stuff in Germany I order photosensitive PCBs at Bungard Elektronik which is well known for consistent photoresistive material in Germany.

To develop the UV light exposed PCB you might purchase natriumhydroxyde (chemiacal formula: NaOH) and use 7g dissolved in one liter of lukewarm water. I guess you can buy it at any drugstore (it's also used to produce soap) or at your local electronics hobby shop as well as etching agents. Very common is ferric cloride (FeCl), an amber stuff which makes awefully ugly spots on your clothes and fingers, but also removes the unwanted copper of your PCB.

Boncuk

I found a kit at Mouser here in the US:

416-K MG Chemicals Prototyping Products

It might be good to learn how to do it.

Thanks, Greg