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Any time limits between Laser printing and Etching for PCB toner transfer?

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JohnnyB60

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I’m getting ready to make my first PCB using the toner transfer method on single sided copper.

I have one question as to how long I can wait between printing and actually applying it to the copper.

I don’t have a laser printer of my own and want to print it at work and then bring it home before apply heat. I was just wondering if there is a curing time on the toner.
 
You should have no problem, after you print it put it in a clean envelope to take it home in.
You dont want to get any fingerprints on the transfer image.
 
You should have no problem, after you print it put it in a clean envelope to take it home in.
You dont want to get any fingerprints on the transfer image.

Thanks!

There have been times in the past when I printed out a coversheet for the clear plastic pocket of a 3-ring binder and found that when I tried to change the coversheet later on, there would be a permanent imprint on the binder. I wouldn’t have this problem if I waited an hour or so to dry before placing the coversheet in the pocket.

Since this is my first time doing this, I wasn’t sure if I could still get a decent transfer after it dried. From everything I’ve seen on YouTube, it looks like it goes directly from the printer to the board. Well if I get time today I’ll try it out. hopefully I’ll get a second chance if it doesn’t.
 
What to use for adding missing lines?

I've made a board, but there are a few lines that did not take. I thought I saw a marking pen someplace to make fixes, but I can’t find them, maybe because I can’t remember what they are called.

Can anybody point me in the right direction? I’m looking for something to make a fine line before I etch.
 
A plain fine point Sharpie marker works well, just make sure you have good coverage with it. If you can see copper through the ink, your etchant can still get to it.
 
A plain fine point Sharpie marker works well, just make sure you have good coverage with it. If you can see copper through the ink, your etchant can still get to it.

Thanks! I thought it was something thicker like a "Paint Marker", now that you mention it i do remember getting it on pretty thick.
 
I have not had good luck with touch up using a sharpie. Not dense enough. Most of the time it is easier to redo the transfer.

I’ve been thinking that i might have to do that and at the same time making my traces bigger. I wish I would have made them thicker in the first place because I have a lot of circuit on an 8x10 board and it was my 1st time.
 
It depends on the paper. Pulsar papers are available only in few countries & rest of the world its not available.

I can say if you are using a different glossy paper then the time limit must be low.

I also use a different glossy paper (cheaper one).Immediately after taking the printout I do the ironing process.A printout kept days was hard to transfer the image than a hot printout.
 
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I’ve been thinking that i might have to do that and at the same time making my traces bigger. I wish I would have made them thicker in the first place because I have a lot of circuit on an 8x10 board and it was my 1st time.

Why not go back to layout and fix it ?

Gosh 8x10 is very large for a first time PCB. Get the pulsar paper from pulsarProFx. It takes some but not all the guesswork out of getting it right. But start with a smaller PCB while you learn. Maby 1x2 inches. Get a laminator!

Perhaps it can be made smaller. We have helped a number of people with first time layouts. But I suggest you start a new thread to ensure people notice what you are doing. One Eagle user likes layout so much he occasionally does the entire layout. What layout package are you using ?
 
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It depends on the paper. Pulsar papers are available only in few countries & rest of the world its not available.

I can say if you are using a different glossy paper then the time limit must be low.

I also use a different glossy paper (cheaper one).Immediately after taking the printout I do the ironing process.A printout kept days was hard to transfer the image than a hot printout.

Thanks, I actually tried two different papers so far. I had planned to use some HP samples that came with an old printer, but I grabbed some Kodak paper by mistake. It had plastic on the back and started popping from the heat then I realized I made a mistake and had to quit before I could finish.

I used the HP paper this last time, but the iron was sticking to it making it hard to move the iron around. I did notice that the toner transferred a little easier from the Kodak paper and it was too bad that I could not finish it.

If I decide to start over I think I’ll try a different paper. I’m also looking into splitting it up into two boards because it was hard applying heat to that size board. Maybe it would not have been so bad if the iron did not stick.
 
Perhaps it can be made smaller. We have helped a number of people with first time layouts. But I suggest you start a new thread to ensure people notice what you are doing. One Eagle user likes layout so much he occasionally does the entire layout. What layout package are you using ?

I have tried a couple of layout packages and I can’t remember if I tried Eagle or not, but I ended up with “PCB Artist”. It’s pretty easy and I’m happy with it. I only wish it did not default to such narrow lines. There may be a setting some place that I have not discovered yet.
 
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