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A fantastic PCB Fabrication method.

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BaCaRdi

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I thought I would share a fantastic vendor experience, and in my opinion, stellar results at home.

I like many used PnP blues, with countless iron heating methods, from which I achieved “OK” results.

After searching the PulsarPro site, for methods of circuit board creation, I indeed hit pay-dirt.

I researched the products and realized this company is on to something wonderful!

First being the use of a laminator for the heating process. Well the company even found the perfect model, which not only heats but applies pressure to the transfer film. Using PnP blues for the process I realized they were just too thick to get proper heat transfer.
Hence, their layered approach, which seems to me the ideal process, and no IRON! At least, get the laminator, and try this for yourself. There are limitations, but there always is with any method.

This process is now my only process, I am also going to check out their dry transfers, just amazing!

Best Regards,

-BaC
Look ma....no Iron!..lol
 
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No Problem!

I thought I would share a fantastic vendor experience, and in my opinion, stellar results at home.

I like many used PnP blues, with countless iron heating methods, from which I achieved “OK” results.

After searching the PulsarPro site, for methods of circuit board creation, I indeed hit pay-dirt.

I researched the products and realized this company is on to something wonderful!

First being the use of a laminator for the heating process. Well the company even found the perfect model, which not only heats but applies pressure to the transfer film. Using PnP blues for the process I realized they were just too thick to get proper heat transfer.
Hence, their layered approach, which seems to me the ideal process, and no IRON! At least, get the laminator, and try this for yourself. There are limitations, but there always is with any method.

This process is now my only process, I am also going to check out their dry transfers, just amazing!

Best Regards,

-BaC
Look ma....no Iron!..lol

There are lots of us that have newer had any problems ironing P-N-P on to PCBs.
 
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Sorry - but I must disagree.. I needed a quick PCB prototyping method, searched for what was available, and chose Pulsar products..
Wasted a lot of money.. Struggled to get good results.. but the process does not work well with an iron, and the '2 step' approach of having to put film over the transferred toner doubles the chance of problems..

I had never used PNP Blue, but tried it when I failed to get anywhere with the Pulsar stuff..

The PNP blue worked first time, no problems, perfect transfer.

There is, in my opinion, NO CONTEST.. I spent days trying to get the Pulsar stuff to work, and never got any good results - 10 minutes after the PNP Blue arrived, I had a perfect transfer leading to a perfect board.

I have a lot of Pulsar stuff (3 packs of paper, rolls of the green film, packs of the thin PCB - I was going to buy a laminator, but thankfully tested the product before I wasted more money -) You can buy this lot from me - see my profile for email - will give at least 50% off Pulsars selling price
 
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Sorry - but I must disagree.. I needed a quick PCB prototyping method, searched for what was available, and chose Pulsar products..
Wasted a lot of money.. Struggled to get good results.. but the process does not work well with an iron, and the '2 step' approach of having to put film over the transferred toner doubles the chance of problems..

I had never used PNP Blue, but tried it when I failed to get anywhere with the Pulsar stuff..

The PNP blue worked first time, no problems, perfect transfer.

There is, in my opinion, NO CONTEST.. I spent days trying to get the Pulsar stuff to work, and never got any good results - 10 minutes after the PNP Blue arrived, I had a perfect transfer leading to a perfect board.

I have a lot of Pulsar stuff (3 packs of paper, rolls of the green film, packs of the thin PCB - I was going to buy a laminator, but thankfully tested the product before I wasted more money -) You can buy this lot from me - see my profile for email - will give at least 50% off Pulsars selling price

Perhaps your iron doesn't achieve the necessary heat, or its surface isn't smooth and even.

At least you could give it a try to use the green foil to create a solder stop mask. Just print the layout inverted and apply the foil.

I wouldn't even bother trying to laminate a sheet of paper with an iron. The laminator, if built perfectly, applies equal pressure to the material resulting in a bubble-free result.

Considering the price of close to 70US$ I think it's worth the investment. (My paper & carton laminator cost 350US$).

On the other hand I rather stick to the method of photoresist and thin film.

Time for the development of a laser burning off the unwanted copper on a PCB - burning the holes as well. :D

Boncuk
 
Perhaps your iron doesn't achieve the necessary heat, or its surface isn't smooth and even.

Believe me - I did EVERYTHING possible to make it work.. Flat iron, Thermal sensor to check iron temperature.. Applied force was the onlt thing I could not measure accurately.. I built a roller jig to allow me to exert local pressure evenly on the board.. I spent (wasted) 2 days trying everything.. oh, I got the toner to transfer, but it only transferred well when the force+temperature caused 'squashing' of the hot toner, meaning that narrow track spacings got filled in.

I agree that using an iron is not exactly a controlled process, and a laminator does make repeating the process far easier..

BUT - the fact is that my first Press-N-Peel attempt produced a perfect transfer with no fuss or bother - and subsequently I must have made about 30 100x160 boards and had about 3 I needed to re-do... I used a pack of Pulsar paper and got nothing usable. I found the foil particularly horrible!


At least you could give it a try to use the green foil to create a solder stop mask. Just print the layout inverted and apply the foil..

I am using the toner paper for something similar (just because I foolishly bought so much of it).. I print 2 sheets, place them back-to-back (toner on outside) then put them into a laminating pouch and run this throug a (standard hot) laminator.. I then cut the pouch open, imerse the 2 laminated sheets in water, and have 2 extremely high quality transparencies for photo-resist work, or other purposes.. the toner is fixed absolutely solid unlike direct printing to lazer acitate film.

Considering the price of close to 70US$ I think it's worth the investment. (My paper & carton laminator cost 350US$)...

Perhaps - IF the laminator accepted standard thickness PCB.. But it doesnt.

Time for the development of a laser burning off the unwanted copper on a PCB - burning the holes as well. :D

Too right.. or perhaps a highly conductive, solderable toner
so one could print onto blank board.

Fred.
 
Using the pulsar system I have made SS and DS boards using the pulsar method & laminator on a regular basis. I have posted images of them here from time to time. In two years I have used about 1 1/2 packs (15 sheets) doing boards for myself and school.

You should have gotten help from pulsar or returned the product for a refund.

If you are not 100% satisfied with any purchase you have made within 30 days from the date of sale, call us to obtain an RMA number and then return the product (postage pre-paid and insured for it's original value) and we will promptly refund your original purchase price.

There is a bit of a art/science to getting the transfer right with an iron but the problem is the same regardless of what paper you use. Toner is toner. But a laminator make the process a 1 2 3 sort of thing. No fuss or muss. It is a very good system. The "where to buy" page on the pulsar site lists some major electronic suppliers. People use it.

What size boards are you not able to use in your laminator? I have not tried it on mine but I understand they can be adjusted.

3v0
 
Glad you are happy with the Pulsar stuff.. I have no axe to gring with them, and I never asked for help, so have no reason to assume the problems could not have been sorted.. Having said that, P+P Blue worked first time, absolutely no problems, using the same iron etc..

I do things carefully - I read everything I can both before a purchase and if I have problems.. I spent 2 days on Pulsar, and it never worked for me... It took me 10 minutes to get a good transfer of the same artwork, when I used P+P. For me, this is QED.

There is a bit of a art/science to getting the transfer right with an iron but the problem is the same regardless of what paper you use. Toner is toner. But a laminator make the process a 1 2 3 sort of thing. No fuss or muss. It is a very good system.

I accept than an iron is not ideal.. but it works fine with P+P and never worked (for me) with Pulsar. As I said, I do things carefully - I monitored the temperature of the iron, and tried different temperatures.. The only thing I could not do was monitor applied force.

The "where to buy" page on the pulsar site lists some major electronic suppliers. People use it.

Are you SURE about this? I wondered about it (the awesome list of some of the most respected electronics R+D establishments was one thing which prompted me to buy Pulsar).. I have spoken to some friends in development at some of these companies - they had never heard of the stuff.. They have asked around - emailed other departments - and can find no-one who has used it..) Perhaps Pulsar is listing everyone who has bought even one started pack.. And perhaps few (if any) of these companies are actually using it - perhaps, like me, most found it a waste of time. Alternatively, perhaps some who have laminators find it ok.. but with P+P I dont need a laminator, ironing works fine.

What size boards are you not able to use in your laminator? I have not tried it on mine but I understand they can be adjusted.

I am not using a laminator - I am using an iron, and it works fine, without any bother, on Press-N-Peel. The laminator specified / supplied by Pulsar only works with thin PCB which Pulsar supplies.

I did not bother to go for a refund, because I am in the U.K. and the P+P costs were astronomical..

You are happy with Pulsar - Fine - I am just stating my expierience with it.. Not really interested in getting into any more debate about this.. Will not be replying to anything more said on this thread - I have nothing more to say! (Ps - I have absolutely no vested interests here - If Pulsar had worked for me, I would be endorsing it.. But it DIDNT!)
 
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About the only way I can make a bad board with pulsar is to print the image wrong side up. The chance of needing touchup is very rare.

There is a learning curve with the clothes iron. What you learned from working with pulsar helped make the P&P transfer work. Had you started with a laminator you would have been up and running too.

I have no connection to PulsarProFx other then buying and using their products.

3v0

EDIT: If you do not get anyone in the UK to take you up on your offer PM me and I will take it off you hands if the postage is not a deal breaker. I do not recall it being that bad.
 
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Hello,

I'd like to know more about this laminator myself. What is the problem
with the 1/16 inch board size, and how hard is it to use with that size
with a little pushing? Also, is it possible to take the thing apart and
modify the mechanical roller mount to make the spacing another 1/32
inch wide? This should allow 1/16 inch board stock to fit through.
I have to do this thicker size so that's why im interested.

So that's two questions...

1. How hard is it to use with 1/16 inch boards, and how good are the results?
2. How hard would it be to modify it to take 1/16 inch boards?
 
Ditto, he has a wealth of knowledge! On a side note;

He help a friend of mine in Austria, obtain the model number of it's European equal. Not only did he go totally out of his way, he made the customer happy, By any means necessary at that!

Sorry guys, PnP blue is great for quick. By for quality(When doing the process correct) it is untouched! I have to say Pulsar it TOP notch in my book!

Products are products, but the support and effort put forth is what really
counts.

Your right, an iron works...I rather let the machine do the pressing and heating.lol

-BaC

About the only way I can make a bad board with pulsar is to print the image wrong side up. The chance of needing touchup is very rare.

There is a learning curve with the clothes iron. What you learned from working with pulsar helped make the P&P transfer work. Had you started with a laminator you would have been up and running too.

I have no connection to PulsarProFx other then buying and using their products.

3v0

EDIT: If you do not get anyone in the UK to take you up on your offer PM me and I will take it off you hands if the postage is not a deal breaker. I do not recall it being that bad.
 
I've been using the pulsar process for dozens of boards with excellent results.

My laminator was a cheap model purchased at Staples. The secret is to pass the board through the machine multiple times until it is almost too hot to touch.

I use the Pulsar "sponge on" etching method with great results. It takes me five minutes to completely etch a board using only a small piece of sponge and ferric chloride. There are no etchant disposal issues because only an ounce or two of chemical is required.

The green film is needed to provide extra abrasion resistance when etching with a sponge.

The board must start clean. I clean the board with 400 grit paper, followed by a wash with acetone before applying the transfer sheet.
 
EXACTLY my method..Heating it up good and hot,Works wonderful! I use an oven mitt (OK it's a fish one..buts it's my g/f's I swear:p) to grab it from the other side.lol

Yes, I use a steel-wool pad and polish it to a mirror first. Then I also hit it with acetone.

However, I use Sodium Persulfate / Natriumpersulfate (Na2S2O8) as an etchant.

-BaC

Here is my friends PnP blue with the laminator method; Allot less effort than an Iron. Also IMO thats a damn good transfer!
**broken link removed**


I've been using the pulsar process for dozens of boards with excellent results.

My laminator was a cheap model purchased at Staples. The secret is to pass the board through the machine multiple times until it is almost too hot to touch.

I use the Pulsar "sponge on" etching method with great results. It takes me five minutes to completely etch a board using only a small piece of sponge and ferric chloride. There are no etchant disposal issues because only an ounce or two of chemical is required.

The green film is needed to provide extra abrasion resistance when etching with a sponge.

The board must start clean. I clean the board with 400 grit paper, followed by a wash with acetone before applying the transfer sheet.
 
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I used to put a lot of work into cleaning the blank PCB. I have found that
dawn dish soap (know for grease cutting) and a green scotch bright pad works. Rinse with tap water.

If the board is new/clean to start with it does not take much work. On the other hand if I use a nasty I board I scrub it till the oxidization is gone.

3v0

EDIT: How many times you run it through the laminator depends on the laminator. I never go more then 4 with mine. I could can get by with less

I did try a cheap Harbor Freight unit that did not work after many passes.

With my laminator, each time I run it through the toner spreads just a bit. If it were fine work I would try 1 or 2 passes.

3v0
 
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DUH, great idea, the stupid part on me is, I use that method to polish metal on cars / motorcycles...lol

Thanks for that!
-BaC

I used to put a lot of work into cleaning the blank PCB. I have found that
dawn dish soap (know for grease cutting) and a green scotch bright pad works. Rinse with tap water.

If the board is new/clean to start with it does not take much work. On the other hand if I use a nasty I board I scrub it till the oxidization is gone.

3v0

EDIT: How many times you run it through the laminator depends on the laminator. I never go more then 4 with mine. I could can get by with less

I did try a cheap Harbor Freight unit that did not work after many passes.

With my laminator, each time I run it through the toner spreads just a bit. If it were fine work I would try 1 or 2 passes.

3v0
 
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