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6KVA diesel chinese generator bought from EBay

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april

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XG-SF5600D Model inverter generator

I have one of these that is not working properly
It starts and runs for about 7 or 8 seconds then cuts out . Its controlled by some kind of a cpu I think and it is a generator and that feeds to an invertor of some kind and that gives two 240Volt outputs and a 12 Volt also.It says " pure sine wave" on the side

I don't have a circuit of any sort , nor have I got it pulled down far enough to get any details of the cpu

Does anybody have any experience with these or know where I can get an explanation of how it is supposed to work?

Any sites or data sheets on generic models ,discussions about them , forum posts ,how to's Wikis etc

Any and all info gratefully appreciated
Thanks

Edit This is the actual model
**broken link removed**
 
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When the engine stops is it as though someone turned it off?, or does it splutter/smoke or sound wrong.
If it stops cleanly then the control is probably shutting it down as you say, the control isnt happy about something, does the display come up with a fault cosde or message?
There are diffo topolgies for gensets like this, the gen could be a dynamo where it produces dc and this is then converted to a near sine wave by a chopper circuit.
Something might be wrong with the chopper circuit or if it has one the field control circuit.
Without indepth knowledge theres not a lot you can do except for check all the connections and any fuses if there are any.
I'd look at bypassing the engine controls and see if it will run by itself, I wouldnt reccomend you do this if you dont have knowledge of diesels though you might get a runaway situation.
 
One thing to determine is why it's shutting down. Is it caused from the generator side such as overvoltage etc or is it an engine problem.

I don't know anything about diesel.

Oil pressure and/or level is usually provided for a generator. You do have to let it start before it shuts down, so that sensor, if oil pressure, has to be disabled until the engine starts.

So, i would try to locate that switch first.

Generator topologies generally use some residual magnetism to "get things going"
 
Oil pressure and/or level is usually provided for a generator. You do have to let it start before it shuts down, so that sensor, if oil pressure, has to be disabled until the engine starts.
Thanks both -The above is a good point as I hav'nt looked at the oil level as its brand new and was filled before running for an hour and then stopping .The stopping is a clean shutdown and its getting fuel OK up till then
First stop go check the oil level
 
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This circuit should be in your owners manual. There is an oil warning switch which may shut down the engine if faulty, have marked the wires. CHECK oil & fuel levels before disconecting, then start the engine & it should keep running. If so check the switch.
 
Thanks debe I'm gonna need that I think. Turned out a small philips screw had come loose allowing the throtle wire to slip about a centimeter. This is attached to a small stepper motor it seems which is controlled by the cpu I suppose. When we shortened the wire cable a bit (its only about 100mm all up see pic ) it was able to start and run fine as the cpu seemed to have control of the revs then.

12 V circuit seems fine . The A/C however is not and now the genny starts and runs fine but the screen which is working fine shows no power is being produced or output and nothing attached will run . So we will continue from there ---thanks all

View attachment 66549
 
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the screen which is working fine shows no power is being produced or output
Does it display "0V" or any error code or whatever?
Have you checked for disconnected/fractured wiring?
 
That looks like a changfa engine, some engines have 2 servo's, one for throttle and the other is injector timing control.
Theres a good chance that the other problem is similar, like I said keep checking connections.
See if you can find out whether this is a permanent magnet generator or an electrical exciter generator, how many wires come from the generator and are the all the same guage, can you see if it has brushes/sliprings?
 
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These are permenant magnet generators that use an inverter block that also controls engine speed. They have a 3 phase winding & a control winding (usualy about 12V AC) to power the electronics in the inverter. Then there is windings for the DC charger output.
 
Does it display "0V" or any error code or whatever?
Have you checked for disconnected/fractured wiring?
Yes it has a screen which says 0 Volts 0 Current , 0 Hz, 0 Watts 100% fuel
I have checked all the witing plugs I could get at and 2 fuses

Then ,after running for 5 minutes or so the revs changed , I looked down and it said 238.6V 50 Hz
So I plugged a device in and it said .5 Amps and the device worked normally

There you go . Something changed after about 5 minutes . Perhaps there is some temperature control but I don't see it on the circuit, but then the circuit does not show the LCD screen they are now supplied with . The indicator lights have gone if you look on the ebay site above apart from the oil warning led which is still there.

So I'm stumped atm it all gets going after it heats up a while it seems.Once the volts come up it runs devices normally from both outlets. Until the volts come up though the economy switch does not affect the motor. When its got volts the revs drop down in economy mode

So Hey its for sale now and working after 5 minutes each time it seems . Well thats today at least
 
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That looks like a changfa engine, some engines have 2 servo's, one for throttle and the other is injector timing control.
Theres a good chance that the other problem is similar, like I said keep checking connections.
See if you can find out whether this is a permanent magnet generator or an electrical exciter generator, how many wires come from the generator and are the all the same guage, can you see if it has brushes/sliprings?
Have a look at the schematic above -saves me typing
Its a typical chinese type circuit and it seems the colours are wrong too
The plug from the Stator has 3 black wires and 3--err blue I think of the top of my head , I will check that again tomorrow and see if it comes good agin after 5
 
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Might be a warm up thing then, allthough I've never seen that before.
Sounds like Debes is right, theres probably 2 sets of windings, one 3 phase for control and another 3 phase for power.
See if you can find out if theres sposed to be a 5 min delay after startup.
 
Found 1 Operators manual
Found -Machine has run in time first 15 hours
For the first 15 hours it cannot be run at full output power !!! Maybe this is why it wont run my little welder
For the first 15 hours it will run for 5 minutes warm up time before it can be used!!

Never seen that before . Amazing what these computer controlled devices are now capable of doing
Pity the Chinese can't write more informative User Manuals .

Thanks all for your help
 
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Time to update this thread
I went to use it one day and it ran for 5 minutes or so then cut out
Now it will start if I try, but it runs very slowly ,with a knock and it jumps around on the floor
When I close the stepper motor controlling the diesel injector pump it wont start but the excess fuel burns off.
Then when I open that stepper a little it starts and revs up to full revs then cuts itself off.

I think it is a problem with the automatic cutouts builtin for "low oil pressure " and "low fuel" or one I have not seen yet.
The oil cutout seems to be grounded at start and pressure breaks the connection.
The fuel level sensor is a new type like this
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LS01-1B66-PA-500W/374-1057-ND/2171034
but with a much longer stem

I am not sure how to test this sensor and wonder if any member has had experience with it yet?

It has 2 wires coming out and I am going to assume it breaks the contact when fuel is low but it may be the opposite.
The data sheet is confusing showing Form A with one side open and the other closed and then Form B with the opposite
Disconnecting the switch has no effect though and I am wondering if I short the two wires to test it ,would I do any damage to the device or the electronics reading it?
 
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So, the NO or NC version of the switch depends on the part number. It's nothing but a float and a magnetic reed switch.

If you know what voltage that feeds the switch, measuring the voltage "ACROSS" the switch may help. Zero volts, switch closed. Some voltage, switch open. Now, if grounds the ignition system, there might not be a DC voltage across it.

An ohmmeter and push the float full up and full down and you should see a change in state.
 
Yes thanks KISS
I checked it further and found you can take the float off and there is a magnetic ring around the inside. It slides up and down and near the bottom it operates a switch which in my case is a closed circuit when empty and when there is a fuel level it is open circuit. There is no resistance reading whatever

I am happy then that that is not the fault and nor is the oils switch so I'll just push on and find something else hopefully.
 
There is no resistance reading whatever

You need a better choice of words here such as: There is 0 resistance in the closed state, open in the open state within the limits of my ohmmeter OR The float seems to act as a switch without excessive contact resistance.

e.g. I can't measure down to 0.001 ohms, but it looks like a "good switch".

"No resistance" can be interpreted as a superconductor where no means zero or "no resistance" can be interpreted as an OPEN.
Your OPEN would actually have insulation resistance involved with some switches. ZERO should not be used interchangeability with no.
 
Is your Diesel generator similar to this one?. Had 2 of them to repair.
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These generators are not capable of putting out the advertised power. These were only capable of around 4.6 Kw before going in overload mode. Other than that they seemed ok if you didn't need the full rating. The fuel shutoff solenoid is mounted on top of the pump, & must have 12V on it otherwise it wont run. If its an electric start model & the battery is not fully charged, it will be difficult to start. Also if they are left unused for a fair while the battery will go flat. I finished up using a small car battery to reliably get them to start. The orig battery is a bit small. Hope this is some help.
 
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Picture of the pump showing the shutoff solenoid on top of the pump. Is the fuel in the filter nice & clean? Diesel does get a black algie grow in it & block filters causing running problems like you described.
 
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