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2-4.5VDC input to 5VDC 1 amp output Boost Converter - need help troubleshooting

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vloschiavo

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First thank you for any assistance with this as I am a complete newbie to electrical engineering with some physics background.

I have built a few of Adafruit's Mintyboosts for friends (Minty Boost! - USB charger for your gadgets) and have been mostly satisfied with their performance. The only issue I have with the design is the limitation of 500mA output. With the newer phones and other gadgetry that can be charged via USB (think tablets, video cameras, etc) this 500mA output results in a painfully slow charge for those larger capacity devices.

Since Lithium and LiFePO4 batteries have, in general, a lower internal resistance and greater charge and discharge current capabilities, these make a great starting point for the charging current source. Pre-made/pre-packaged Li-Ion chargers are fairly cheap and readily available so this making re-charging these fairly straight forward; no need to worry about slow start, constant current, constant voltage charging modes for Li-Ion as the charger takes care of things. I'm using this charger (USB LiIon/LiPoly charger [v1.1] ID: 259 - $10.00 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits), I simply replaced a single resistor to increase it's charge rate to 1Amp, with the battery I'm using, this putts me well below the "safe" 1C charge rate at about 1/5C. A thermistor can also be added for additional safety.

So, I've taken the MightyMintyBoost (How to make a solar iPod/iPhone charger -aka MightyMintyBoost) (by Honus (Instructables Member: Honus)) a step further. Utilizing larger capacity Li-Ion Cells (with low voltage, high voltage, and high current protection built in) I can easily put out 1 Amp to a Step-Up circuit.

I would prefer to simply purchase something that will accept between 2-4.5VDC in and output 5VDC 1-2ampls. As I wasn't able to find something like this (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/fx55plug.pdf) that is still in production or for sale somewhere, I decided to try and build my own.

I prototyped the following 5V/1A Boost Converter on a solderless breadboard based on the MAX1771 (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/MAX1771.pdf) chip. See schematic in figure 9 on page 16 of the datasheet. The circuit "works" in that it will provide a 5.05V open circuit, but I get significant voltage sag under load, almost 0.9VDC. Additionally, the maximum output current I can draw seems to be less than 300mA.

This is where my lack of knowledge is hindering my troubleshooting ability. However, I believe the problem may lie in one or more of the following:

1) Breadboard resistance and inductance? Will I see better performance (less voltage sag and more current) on a PCB or perfboard?
2) Physical circuit layout? How do I figure out how to improve the layout? Recommendations on reading material?
3) Power MOSFET Substitution: I was unable to locate the MOSFET indicated "MTD20N03HDL" and substituted with the following: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/IRL630PBF-Vishay-datasheet-8625071.pdf
a. I think I should be concerned with the RDS as the original MOSFET specifies 35mΩ and the replacement is 40mΩ.
b. Other? Switching speed coupled with inductor?
4) Inductor Substitution not keeping up with current demands: I chose this 220uH inductor RLB9012-221KL. (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/RLB9012.pdf)
a. From what I've read, this seems to be sufficient for a 1 amp output
b. Plus it's Test Freq is rated at 796kHz - which is below the Max1771's output (300kHz switching output).
5) Internal resistance of the circuit due to alligator clips across diode: Since the diode's axial leads are way too thick for the breadboard, I had to use alligator clips to get it in circuit without soldering it.

Questions:
1) Does anyone know of or can you find a prebuilt DC-DC step up that I can just purchase that fits the 2-4.5VDC in and 5VDC out >=1 amp requirements?
2) Thoughts on troubleshooting the circuit?

Thank you,

Vince

ps. Here is a pic of the circuit:
**broken link removed**
 
I think the OP is trying to make a battery powered, portable device, charger with a USB port output of one amp. Bad things could happen. USB ports are only good for 500ma MAX. Some devices may rely on the 500ma max current limiting built into USB ports and could overheat with more power. Andy
 
I prototyped the following 5V/1A Boost Converter on a solderless breadboard based on the MAX1771 (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/MAX1771-1.pdf) chip. See schematic in figure 9 on page 16 of the datasheet. The circuit "works" in that it will provide a 5.05V open circuit, but I get significant voltage sag under load, almost 0.9VDC. Additionally, the maximum output current I can draw seems to be less than 300mA.

4) Inductor Substitution not keeping up with current demands: I chose this 220uH inductor RLB9012-221KL. (https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/12/RLB9012-1.pdf)
a. From what I've read, this seems to be sufficient for a 1 amp output
b. Plus it's Test Freq is rated at 796kHz - which is below the Max1771's output (300kHz switching output).

2) Thoughts on troubleshooting the circuit?

Thank you,

Vince
I think the inductor is the worst offender here, next up would be the layout, including Rsense , what value did you pick? The Rsense should be a 1/4W 805 smd laid right across the MAX1771 CS and GND pins.

Re-read the data sheet, pay attention to the layout considerations (i.e. group parts as close as possible), and install on a protoboard. Also stay with the suggested manufacturer parts and values, the reference designs should always work.

The data sheet Fig. 9 shows a 22uh inductor, not the 220uH that was chosen. Wrong type of inductor too. Use the suggested manufacturer types from the data sheet. The RDC of the RLB9012-221KL is 0.65Ω, so there is a big part of the voltage drop right there. The data sheet says to stay under 0.02Ω for DCR. The inductor current needs to be rated 1A continuous, or at least 30% more for peak.

A big unknown is the battery characteristics under load, but should be O.K if it is new.

I have attached a picture of a ZXLD1350 buck led driver (internal switch), works great, get them parts close, and keep inductor away from the Rsense.

EDIT: It looks like the NFET substitution is equally at fault here as the Rdson of the IRL630 is 0.40Ω not 40mΩ. That is ten times more than say the Si9410DY Rdson.
 

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I think the OP is trying to make a battery powered, portable device, charger with a USB port output of one amp. Bad things could happen. USB ports are only good for 500ma MAX. Some devices may rely on the 500ma max current limiting built into USB ports and could overheat with more power. Andy

4pyros,
I'm not concerned with the end devices as I'm working with iPhones (3GS/4), iPad, Droid Phones, kindle, etc...all of which the original AC chargers output between 750mA (Droid) to 2.1A (iPad) at 5VDC.
 
I'm not concerned with the end devices as I'm working with iPhones (3GS/4), iPad, Droid Phones, kindle, etc...all of which the original AC chargers output between 750mA (Droid) to 2.1A (iPad) at 5VDC.
You may be right but.... is it posible the AC chargers are wired differently from the USB chargers into the charging systems of your devices. Are the USB connectors rated at 1 amp? How about the small wires used in USB cables, are thay good for 1 amp?
It may work but its just not right.
Andy
 
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I think the inductor is the worst offender here, next up would be the layout, including Rsense , what value did you pick? The Rsense should be a 1/4W 805 smd laid right across the MAX1771 CS and GND pins.

Re-read the data sheet, pay attention to the layout considerations (i.e. group parts as close as possible), and install on a protoboard. Also stay with the suggested manufacturer parts and values, the reference designs should always work.

The data sheet Fig. 9 shows a 22uh inductor, not the 220uH that was chosen. Wrong type of inductor too. Use the suggested manufacturer types from the data sheet. The RDC of the RLB9012-221KL is 0.65Ω, so there is a big part of the voltage drop right there. The data sheet says to stay under 0.02Ω for DCR. The inductor current needs to be rated 1A continuous, or at least 30% more for peak.

A big unknown is the battery characteristics under load, but should be O.K if it is new.

I have attached a picture of a ZXLD1350 buck led driver (internal switch), works great, get them parts close, and keep inductor away from the Rsense.

EDIT: It looks like the NFET substitution is equally at fault here as the Rdson of the IRL630 is 0.40Ω not 40mΩ. That is ten times more than say the Si9410DY Rdson.

Nickelflippr,

Suffice it to say, your feedback was excellent!!!

I had posted a reply previously...but I'm not sure why I don't see it...
I must not be sleeping enough ;) - I've ordered a more appropriate inductor and N-FET. ;)

Digikey part numbers:
INDUCTOR 15UH 20% RADIAL: Cheap! - RLB1314-150ML-ND
CHOKE RF HI CURR 22UH 10% RADIAL: NOT Cheap - M8341-ND
N-Fet: IPU060N03LGIN-ND

I'm trying to keep the components as cheap as possible (perhaps I'll turn this into a kit), so I'm going to experiment with the 15uH inductor and check performance.

Thoughts?
 
vloschiavo:

Using a simulation program like LTSpice could help optimize the component values. Haven't got that going myself, so somebody else might help you out there.

The Max1771 data sheet says that toroid, or pot style (see previous pic) inductors are preferred. Not sure what effects might be seen with the radial types. Inductors seem hard to track down. Here is a **broken link removed**.

The nfets need to have a really low gate threshold, if they are to operate from a 2-4.5V source. The IPU060N03LG is such an overrated part, it is hard to see the low Vgs characteristics Vs. I (drain) chart. A couple that I found from Digikey would be:
IRLML6244TRPBF
DMG3420U-7

Not sure how far you are going to get with all thru hole parts. Using adapter boards, for SOT-23 parts, like in the previous post above, is good for prototyping. Good luck.
 
Update:

Swapped out the NFET and Inductor (using 15uH inductor). Now pulling 650mA (RMS) (1100mA peak) on the solderless breadboard. This makes me happy. Next step is to transfer to perfboard. :)

Thanks everyone!
 
I just ordered an LVBOost. Looks promising, although the data sheet says <900mA at my input/output voltages. I'm anxious to get it in the test rig.

The Mosfet stays cool to the touch after 1hr of operation above 600mA. ;) I have a feeling I'll be able to do 2 amps when all said and done.
 
Hi - hope it's ok that I briefly intrude on this thread. Any of you know if the MAX1771 can be used to make a 600 VDC DC/DC converter if using external components that sustain these voltages? See e.g. fig. 3 on page 9. As far as I can see the high voltage will not get into contact with the MAX 1771 itself....?

Greetings,

Jesper
 
Jesper; You what to use electrostatic headphones with a 600 volt amp powerd by solar on your bike? Andy
 
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