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Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
Ebay has loads of listings for small 12" mono monitors with a mix of MDA/EGA/CGA if you're stuck for a monitor. One other possibility might be looking at old, but well regarded, security monitors. As loads of them also had EGA etc inputs on them as well as composite inputs. It may actually be...
Sheesh, what another sh1t fest ppl...
I really hope that someone sensible will close this thread before it gets any worse.
There's good reason why religion, politics and the girl next door's sexual preferences should not be topics to be freely discussed in a public forum such as this. These...
You probably have a mix of things to clean up, soot, burnt resin, burnt solder mask, leakage of electrolyte from the capacitor etc. I would start by removing the component and then with a good scrub using an old toothbrush and some high purity solvent/ Isopropanol. Then see where you're at with...
The component that is toasted is a non polarised capacitor, rated at 100V with a value of 6.8 uF (MicroFarad). You can give it a shot, clean up the mess and carefully check that when you replace the capacitor that you reconnect all of the copper traces to going each pin. Use small pieces of...
I wouldn't use 60/40 either, well not for a new build done in a reflow anyway. For repair work, where low device working temperatures are expected, I see no advantage in using anything special, other than perhaps a fine diameter, quality cored solder. About the only real advantage I see of 63/37...
Method 1, my first choice:
Meticulously clean the board, pads etc of any glue, old solder or flux residue and liberally flux it with a flux pen once clean. Run a couple of fine lines of solder paste towards the middle of the heatsink pad, but away from the edges and not too close together to...
Preheating the board will not involve melting the solder on the chip components on the rear of the board. Stick the whole assembly in the oven for a half hour at 150 degrees. Take it out and immediately remove the chip with your hot air wand. That way you are only requiring to raise the chip by...
That's the thing, these type of buttons don't necessarily need to be physically stuck down, but the contact inside may be sufficiently made either physically or bridged by foreign matter, as to create a false press. I have seen that a couple of times when kids have had juice etc on their hands...
Motor driver chips often have those pesky heatsink tabs on the underside. You must pre-heat the board and at the same time raise the temperature of the part otherwise you will pull up the track. A generous amount of liquid flux in there won't do any harm either :)
Vizio are well known for using several different chinese manufacturers throughout their product cycles. Without close-up photos of the boards there's no real way to identify which is used in your particular TV. The issue you are having could be power supply related, or it could be bad firmware...
Start the same way you would with any large project. Here's a few easy pointers to get you started in the right direction:
Define your problems
Break your problems down into manageable parts
Come up with a decent workable idea of how to solve each part
Write and meticulously document your code...
Loads of genuine companies pretty much do just that by implementing really convoluted and often difficult to navigate call menus, while using an 08 number for public access to them. Last time I really noticed it being obvious, was when I had to call one particular Insurance company, but some...
Prolly just easier to send those nuisance calls to an endless audio loop saying "Hello, hello? Can you speak up I can't hear you. Hello? Who's calling? Fred? Oh you want Fred? Who's in bed?, Fred's not in bed, he's out playing golf" etc, just endless dribble, but for saturday afternoon...
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