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I enjoy reading about your exploits. It's fascinating how simple the concept is. You are going to have a humungous inductor though. What core and wire are you using for the inductor/inductors?
Try using the model of the ADA4817, it could well be all that you need. Use as a maximum a 500 ohm input resistor, don't be afraid to use current, you need it at these frequencies.
I tried simulating with high speed opamps, the best I used was the ADA4817, it's really nice, but you end up with ringing artifacts at the switching point, and a small square wave at the inverting node. All of these are distortion artifacts. It's pretty good but not as good as what I wanted, so...
No, it is not easy or trivial for 0.2% distortion. In fact it is quite hard.
Not if you start with a low distortion source. My preference is for CFB amps.
I have been doing a lot of work on this recently. You really need a switching npn differential pair with the collector of 1 npn driving a current source of 1/2 the value of the differential pair current source. You need good high frequency transistors for your current sources and differential pair.
You could use the sensor in series with a base resistor of an npn transistor e.g. BC547 to switch the transistor. Keep the current below the 2ma. The collector in series with a suitable resistor and the LED will turn the LED on. All powered from your 9v.
Nearly all are stable at unity gain except for some very high frequency types which are only stable at a minimum gain. This application is nowhere near that. Used to be in the 70's, LM301a, you had to compensate your op amp but not these days.
Automotive grade normally have a wider temperature...
I would just use an op amp as a unity gain buffer, and divide either its input or output by 2/3. I would then use software after the ADC to do any level shifting or inversion. The op amp should be rail to rail both input and output as well as able to operate off a single 5v supply. The CA3140...
You have a very expensive BOMB in your boot. If the caps fail, and they will with your setup, they will explode with considerable force! Putting them in series will not ensure equal voltage sharing! What you are doing is VERY DANGEROUS.
Have a look at: https://www.powerstream.com/dc-12V-16V.htm
If you are only driving your stereo and have 500 Farads(?) of capacitance then you don't need to supply the peak power (200 Amps) but only the continuous power maybe 1/5 to 1/10 of the peak power. What you do have to worry about is...
Take a single sided blank PCB of the same size. Tack solder little leads to your ground points, drill holes in the blank PCB at these points then sandwich the boards together, blank board insulation side up. Solder the little leads to the copper plane of the blank PCB, and voila, you have a...
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