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This is how I think the heating element part is arranged.
The motor derives it power from the voltage developed across the 3.2 ohm part.
I suggest monitoring the current taken by the heat gun and note if the current drops when the motor slows down. If the current does not change the fault will...
I suggest doing resistance measurments betwee the 4 wires going into the heater assembly. From that you may be able to work out the way the supply for the motor is obtained from a section of the heater elements. Also measuring the voltage between the motor terminals when it is working normally...
Measuring the resistance between the mains input pins will also tell you if it is switch mode or one with a normal mains transformer. Switch mode ones will read a few megohms. Ones with a normal mains transformer will measure a few hundred ohms.
Les.
A photograph of the end of the stator where the wires come out of the winding may also help as this is probably where one end of the main winding is connected to one end of the auxiliary winding.
It MAY be posible to just take the rotor out and the assemble the motor with the shaft coming out...
If the motor is connected but NOT driving the cutting blades does it still behave in the same way. I am thinking that there may be something tight in the cutting blade part which is making the motor draw more current than normal and the electronics is cutting off the supply to the motor to...
Although the application not refers to implementing PID control digitaly it gives the basic principle that can be applied when using op amps to implement it.
Les.
I suggest measuing the voltage at the motor terminals when the motor is running. As you say the machine requires a 24 volt power supply the motor is probably 24 volts but is may be a different voltage so it is worth confirming this before ordering a motor. You can find optical tachometers on...
I have found that the NiMh cell is a common fault on these plug in time switches. Sometimes they do not hold a charge and somtimes they seem to go open circuit so that when they are plugged in the charging current raises the voltage abobe the normal battery voltage and this causes allthe...
To simulate each button he could use a CD4051 (Single 8-channel analog multiplexer/demultiplexer.) to provide a path from the selected row to it's common output. that output would go to the common of another
4 channel analog multiplexer/demultiplexer. (A CD4052 or a CD4051). The 4 inputs on...
As there are 10 wires going to the keypad and it seems to be arranged as 4 columns and 6 rows one axis will be driven by outputs from the microcontroller and the other axis will be connected to inputs on the microcontroller. So for example the 4 columns may be driven high (or low) in sequence...
I find poto electric light switches similar to this one quite reliable.
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=photocell+sensor
They seem to last about 10 years. (You can't change the light level at which the switch.)
Les
I think I can explain why the ready made harness works. In the diagram in post #1 I think the wire that links pin 86 on both relays in the ready made harness has a diode hidden in it with it's anode to the relay 2 and and it's cathode to relay 1. I suggest that you meter between 86 on the...
Re post #14. From the table in post #9 there must be a +12 feed to the switch. I think this switch is an ORIGINAL switch on the bike and the TS is just guessing as to how it is wired. We have not been told if this switch is the original one or an added switch.
From the part of the table without...
I agree with iggnator's post #11 that the relays need to work independently.
Do the following.
Remove the red wire from relay 1 pin 87 and connect it to relay 1 pin 30. (So the relay common contacts (Pin 30) are both permanently connected to +12 volts.)
Remove the blue wire ftom relay 2 pin...
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