1. Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
    Dismiss Notice

Traila Brake Controller

Discussion in 'Electronic Projects' started by tonigau, Oct 2, 2008.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. tonigau

    tonigau Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    Messages:
    72
    Likes:
    2
    Location:
    dot au
    Here's a controller for 12V electric traila brakes.
    I made this up back in 2003 when I built my 2000kg GVM traila & could'nt afford a controller at the time.

    There is a control for intensity & a switch for manual activation.
    It features soft start & Over Current Protection. (OCP)
    With 2 IRFZ44 mosfets, should be able to drive 4 standard magnets (2 axels)
    I didnt fit the manual switch as I can do it with the brake pedal (brake lights come on before brakes applied)


    There a 2 issues I had with this design...
    1. the OCP caused operating problems during commissioning, however bench testing both breadboard proto & PCB with real solenoids worked without fault. At the time I just removed the opamp & thats the extent of trouble shooting this problem (it could have been my external grounding)
    I would implement the OCP differently if I did a revision, (like in the megasquirt injector drivers - much simpler)
    2. After 5 years of operation the intensity would not adjust down & I was getting brake lockup when empty, I assumed this was either a bad cap or IC fault but ended up being a "no find cause", the fix was to change values of trim resistor attached to RV1 pot. ( something drifted)

    The design is fairly simple & intended for cab mounting.
    The unit consumes about 20mA when no brake signal, so disconnect +12 if not driving vehicle for month or so.

    Operation is as follows.
    Brake light signal applied to TB2-1 & inverted by Q1 & applied to IC1 shutdown pin to wake up IC1.
    IC1 is a SMPS controller & this configuration was inspired from ?? .
    The outputs are nored via diodes D5 & D6 to allow 100% duty cycle
    Q2,Q3, Q4, D7, R10., R8. are high side MOSFET driver, this could have been done with high side driver IC but at the time was not easily available in small qty's.

    D1,D3, C7 are charge pump to generate MOSFET gate voltage above Vcc.

    The OVP circuit senses volt drop on resistor R11 using an opamp IC2A configured as differential amplifier, IC2B configured as a comparator with threshold set by trimpot RV2 The output of amplifier IC2A is proportional to current flowing thru R11.
    The Comparator output is short pulses (depending on intensity adjustment)& pulls the soft start(SS) line effectively disabling IC1. The SS Capacitor ensures the line stays low while being pulsed. The OC indication circuit Q6, C11, R19, D10, R18 .... integrates the pulses to steady LED indication.

    Other components D9, MV1,2,3, D2 are for circuit protection.

    I used clear poly carbonate for the front panel & secured this in place with the control nob of the pot.(lazy but effective)

    The 2 mosfets should have individual gate resistors eg 10R but this was overlooked at PCB design time as only 1 mosfet was originally in schematic. With the mosfets used I experience no operation issues.

    The PCB is 2 sided & has Vias that can be made with "thru links" when making own PCB using resistor leg offcuts. I optimised the pad sized & tracks for DIY so should be ok for most.
    Sorry about the incomplete B.O.M., it is output from protel schematic.

    The Box is easy to make if you have a basic workshop, some holes are threaded.
    I made the box about 6mm longer at the front than in the mech drawing (see photo),
    Use heatsink compound between the 10x10x50 sq bar & the case & silicone insulator under the copper(CU) plate & insulating bushes on the screws securing the CU plate to sq bar.
    I use bootlace ferrules on wires to terminal block & wires poke thru snug fit holes in rear panel. This provides reasonable strain relief for wire termination.
    I conformal coated PCB for environment protection.


    PCB copper prints are 1:1 so should be able to print page as is.
    files are in the zip, enjoy
     

    Attached Files:

  2. shokjok

    shokjok Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2008
    Messages:
    452
    Likes:
    3
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    Allow me to suggest my simpler circuit designed for taillights only. It can be added for use with your electric brake controller.
     

    Attached Files:

    • UTTI.gif
      UTTI.gif
      File size:
      71.2 KB
      Views:
      314
  3. shokjok

    shokjok Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2008
    Messages:
    452
    Likes:
    3
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    If you want to save the battery from draining, either run the positive wire to the ignition switch, or use breakaway connectors for occasional usage. My circuit outlines this, as my design uses toggle switches.
     
  4. dave

    Dave New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 1997
    Messages:
    -
    Likes:
    0


     
  5. tonigau

    tonigau Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    Messages:
    72
    Likes:
    2
    Location:
    dot au

    The drain on the battery is not a problem, I use the vehicle more than once a week (my bike is still off the road).

    I have a commercial brake controller in my truck & this draws 20mA quiecient current as well, trouble is the truck only gets used every month or so. I have to disconnect this when not used.
     
  6. power58

    power58 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Messages:
    36
    Likes:
    0
    Location:
    IL.
    Hello tonigau: Thanks for posting the circuit looks great. Was planning on reverse engineering one, you have saved me a lot of trouble.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page