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TDA7000 receiver project

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Hi Zach,
When they designed the FM broadcast band system, they wanted to have a very quiet background sound level, even better than the fairly low noise (high frequency hiss) that FM provides. So they decided to emphasize (boost) the audio high frequencies when they transmit, then allow the receiver to cut the audio high frequencies back down to normal. When the highs are cut, then the hiss is also cut. The Americans, who started FM broadcasting first, chose an agressive emphasis curve so that the hiss was reduced very much during de-emphasis by the receiver. The recorders and microphones at that time didn't have much high audio frequency level anyway.
Years later, the Europeans decided to broadcast FM too, but noticed that the high audio frequencies frequently overmodulated the transmitter when they were emphasized so much. They realised that recording machines and microphones had improved very much over the years since the Americans developed the system and produced high audio frequency levels that were much higher than the system could support. So they chose a less agressive emphasis curve (less high audio frequencies boost).
Therefore the North American and European curves are different. An American radio will sound muffled in europe, and a european radio will sound too bright in America.
Your radio has the agressive American de-emphasis curve where the high audio frequencies are cut quite a lot. (The datasheet has the european curve). However, your simple transmitter doesn't have any pre-emphasis to balance the sound so the radio will play it very muffled, similar to your home stereo having its treble tone control turned all the way down.
 
Hi Zach,
Sorry, but what do you expect from a transmitter for less than a buck?
You could try removing or reducing the value of the de-emphasis cap C15 in your tuner. Then the sound from your transmitter will be normal but the tuner will be noisy, and regular broadcast stations will sound extremely bright (similar to having your home stereo's treble tone control turned all the way up).

Whenever I see your good-looking schematic, I think about running out of black ink in my printer. Can you "negative" it?
 
Zach-if I am not mistaken the antennas for my Sony armband type radio are the leads to the earphones. Clearly they would be far from an ideal antenna but the 24 or so inches of wire are better than nothing.
 
there ya go. i dont have a printer so i didnt even think about that.
 

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thanx stevez, thats a GREAT idea!! But wouldnt that act like a ribbon cable??

Okay, ive compiled a list of questions:

1. On Harry's receiver, i only see one antenna, i thought it was supposed to be a dipole.

2. On the dipole antenna, I can have 2 or 3 feet of wire leading to where it splits, right? Cuz that would act as a ribbon cable i think.

3. Okay, this is reealy weird. I figured out why my receiver is barely picking anything up, and humming like crazy. When I turn on my clock radio right next to the TDA7000, it hums @ the same tone as the TDA7000 does. Even if I walk 20 feet away, it still hums. i havent tried walking farther. And if I change the frequency on the TDA7000, the humming goes to a different spot on the clock radio.
So i guess wuts happening is my TDA7000 is transmitting and receiving itself, which is not good. Please help me :!:
 
Hi Zach,
Sure your radio is going to transmit its local oscillator (its coil ) to another radio, it isn't shielded.
Your radio's oscillator frequency is only 70KHz away from its receiving frequency. Normal (super-heterodyne) FM radios have their local oscillator 10.7MHz away. Big difference.

You didn't say before that the radio hums, and now you say that it also transmits that hum. It shouldn't hum.
Are you powering it with an AC-DC power supply? Even if you are using a battery, try adding a 100uF cap across the radio's power supply input. It might stop the hum (AC ripple) or change its pitch (motorboating).
 
YEEEESSSS!!!! IT WORKS!!!! Beautiful clear reception!!! I want to test it with my bug, but something is wrong with it. Hmm, maybe you can clue me in :lol: .

Here's the schematic. I was told by john sorenson to use a 15pf cap for C5, and thats the only thing i did differently from the schematic. The thing is, it hums, and the sound quality is realy bad. It used to work just fine. Where do you think the problem is?
 

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Hi Zack,
I am confused. Before you said that your radio hums and it transmits hum to another radio. Now you say that your transmitter creates hum. Which is it?

All battery-powered electronic items work better with power supply bypass capacitors, especially when the battery is low and has a high resistance. Maybe now your battery is low. On your transmitter, add a 0.001uF to 0.01uF ceramic cap across the battery connection to the circuit for RF bypass, and a 10uF to 100uF cap in parallel, for AF.

Maybe your transmitter hums because its electret mic is connected backwards. Then its case would be "live" instead of ground. An ohm-meter to its case will tell you which terminal is ground.
 
I can't help myself wondering how many time's I've seen that same transmitter scematic here :)
 
sorry john, actually it wasnt u. i got curious and found the page where someone told me 2 do that https://electro-tech-online.com/viewtopic.php?t=11267&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30 So is the 15pf cap alright for C5?

I can't help myself wondering how many time's I've seen that same transmitter scematic here
thats cuz its such a great simple transmitter!

Sorry, i shouldve been a little more specific, it is two seperate things, my receiver was doing the hum, but now that is fixed, but now i am talking about my transmitter.
The batt voltage is 8.58v. i would think that would be high enough. maybe not. ive got a .01uf cap across the battery. havent tried an AF cap though. Umm, how do I use my ohmeter to tell me which way is which on the electret mike?

Thanx everyone :lol:
 
zachtheterrible said:
Umm, how do I use my ohmeter to tell me which way is which on the electret mike?

The ground pin is connected to its case, and you will measure zero ohms. The output pin of the mic is connected to the drain of a turned-off FET and will measure a high resistance to the case.
 
right you guys were :lol: . just had to turn it around and i got much better sound quality/sensitivity. Its funny that the transmitter had fine sensitivity when the battery voltage was higher.

The next thing that i have to do is make my receiver mobile. gotta get my lm386 working. i plan to have the whole circuit run off 4.5v (3 AA's or AAA's) will this work alright with the lm386 as its minimum voltage requirement is 4 volts?
 
Hi Zach,
The transmitter works a lot better when its microphone isn't backwards, doesn't it?
All the details that you need are on the datasheets.

As per its datasheet, the LM386-4 has a minimum voltage rating of 5V. The LM386-1 and LM386-3, have a minimum of 4V.
Three AA cells will drop to 4V very quickly, 4 cells would last much longer.
AAA cells are a ripoff unless you really need their light weight and small size (and short life and high price).
 
thx audioguru, i guess i will go w/ 4 AA's then. the thing that i dont like is that ill be supply the TDA7000 with 6 volts, which is more than it needs, therefore wasting energy (or is it power, got em mixed up, you know what i mean though). would this lead to better reception though?

thanx so much for helping me, i am very greatful!!
 
Hi Zach,
The datasheet for the TDA7000 recommends a supply voltage from 2.7V to 10V. It does not show any change of its spec's over that wide range.
However, it is spec'd with a supply voltage of 4.5V. Your 4 AA cells will start at a little more than 6V (which is very close to 4.5V), then gradually drop to 4V (which is also close), when they should be replaced. I doubt you will notice any change in reception over that small range.

You are not wasting power by adding a 4th battery cell, you are actually gaining double their life.
The datasheet (there's that word again) for Energizer's alkaline AA cell shows that 3 of them will supply 25mA (TDA7000 plus LM386 with a fairly high continuous output) for 50 hours when their voltage drops to 4.0V (the minimum rated supply voltage for the LM386, as shown on its ..., you know).
It shows that 4 AA cells reach 4.0V in 100 hours at the same current.
 
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