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Repair SMPS power supply from Bose subwoofer

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Definately a startup-only problem then...
I know that you've already checked the resistor chain R121/R155/R122/R156, but it might be worth double-checking by measuring the (AC) voltage accross each resistor with the mains on - make sure the voltage is the same accross all resistors.
Is it possible that something's shorted near R157 that could be pulling the voltage down at the junction of R155/R122?

I doubt that it's important, but what nominal mains voltage are you on - 110 or 230?
 
Hi,

Definately a startup-only problem then...
I know that you've already checked the resistor chain R121/R155/R122/R156, but it might be worth double-checking by measuring the (AC) voltage accross each resistor with the mains on - make sure the voltage is the same accross all resistors.
Is it possible that something's shorted near R157 that could be pulling the voltage down at the junction of R155/R122?

I doubt that it's important, but what nominal mains voltage are you on - 110 or 230?

The voltage from up to down is, 36V, 36V, 28V, 28V.

The input voltage is 230V.
 
Those voltages look about what I would expect. Can you check the voltages across R106, R107, R109 and R150 while the circuit is trying to start. I would expect the reading to be zero. When you forced the circuit to start were the output voltages correct. (I think about +/- 25.5 on V+ and V- and +/- 10 on +/- VCC) ?

Les
 
Hi,

Those voltages look about what I would expect. Can you check the voltages across R106, R107, R109 and R150 while the circuit is trying to start. I would expect the reading to be zero. When you forced the circuit to start were the output voltages correct. (I think about +/- 25.5 on V+ and V- and +/- 10 on +/- VCC) ?

Les

Do you mean to measure when the power supply is not starting?

Do you want to know the voltage at each resistor or from each resistor pin to ground?

The voltage at the outputs is +9,6V and -10V. I know these voltages are correct.
 
Measure the voltage across the resistors with power applied but with it in the sate were it should start. I do not believe there should be any voltage across them until the supply is running normally I'm just looking for thing that could be drawing current from pin 12 of the IC. Measuring the voltages after you have forced it to start was to see if it was working perfectly once started. I was particularly interested in V+ and V- (The output ends of L201 and L202) This is to see if the voltage regulation of the switched mode part is working correctly. If it is not it may direct us to the start problem via a different route or give us a clue in some other way.

Les.
 
Hi,

Measure the voltage across the resistors with power applied but with it in the sate were it should start. I do not believe there should be any voltage across them until the supply is running normally I'm just looking for thing that could be drawing current from pin 12 of the IC. Measuring the voltages after you have forced it to start was to see if it was working perfectly once started. I was particularly interested in V+ and V- (The output ends of L201 and L202) This is to see if the voltage regulation of the switched mode part is working correctly. If it is not it may direct us to the start problem via a different route or give us a clue in some other way.

Les.

R106 = 80mV
R107 = 80mV
R109 = 400mV (this is not DC, is as AC, strange)
R150 = 320mV

The measure at coils is: ´+15,6V and -15,2V
 
The 80 mV across R106 and R107 must be due to leakage current though the photo transistors in the opto isolators as the LEDs in them cannot be being driven as there is no power at this stage on the low voltage side of the circuit. I think this must be normal as I do not believe both have failed. I do not now where the 400 mV AC across R109 is coming from. (I asked for this test to be sure that ZR101 which you had already tested had not failed in some strange way. This reading cannot be due to leakage through the zener. ) I was expecting V+ and V- to be about 25 volts. Do you have any documentation that says what these voltages should be ? This is to be sure I have not calculated the voltages incorrectly.

Les.
 
I guess that the AC on R109 must be just leakage through ZR101 and/or being sourced from the IC (a bit of pulling up?) through D105... remember it'll be "pulsed" or very ripply DC on pin 12 of the IC, as C118 charges from the mains and is then discharged by whatever our mystery current sink is.

If there's more voltage on R150 (681 ohms?) than on R106, doesn't that indicate a lot of current flowing out of pin 7? That seems very odd. Or could it be flowing through the gate of a damaged Q103?

Your measurements in #23 give a current of about 370uA (RMS) - which should be enough to start the IC, which has a maximum startup current of 250uA, according to the datasheet. I'm probably mistaken here, but shouldn't these add up to 230V, not 130?
 
That looks like a wonderful service manual - I wish more companies wrote things like that. I'll have a read when I'm home from work.
 
Hi,

I guess that the AC on R109 must be just leakage through ZR101 and/or being sourced from the IC (a bit of pulling up?) through D105... remember it'll be "pulsed" or very ripply DC on pin 12 of the IC, as C118 charges from the mains and is then discharged by whatever our mystery current sink is.

If there's more voltage on R150 (681 ohms?) than on R106, doesn't that indicate a lot of current flowing out of pin 7? That seems very odd. Or could it be flowing through the gate of a damaged Q103?

Your measurements in #23 give a current of about 370uA (RMS) - which should be enough to start the IC, which has a maximum startup current of 250uA, according to the datasheet. I'm probably mistaken here, but shouldn't these add up to 230V, not 130?

If I measure with scope at R156 upper point I get 70V pulse to 50Hz against PCOM. At lower point I get 4V. The measurement at #23 was with multimeter in DC so it´s RMS.

The current of 250uA should be with 10V at pin 12 which are not there...

My idea now is to connet R156 to ground, filter these 70V from R156 and convert to 12V with DC/DC converter, then connect the 12V output to D108 cathode, I think it should work like that.
 
After looking at the documentation I realised I was wrong about the voltage on V+ and V- The part of the circuit I thought was the feedback was the over voltage circuit.

Les.
 
If Q103 had a gate to source short (Or high leakage.) it would pull pin12 of U101 down as Q104 would be trying to pull the gate positive resulting in higher than normal emitter current which comes prom pin 12 of U101. I have not yet worked out what purpose these two transistors serve. They are not mentioned in the manual.

Les.
 
Good work - this looks like progress!
It's quite likely that Q103 will have its gate shorted if it's been subject to more than about 20v gate-source - and that's quite likely to have happened if the power transistors have failed.

I wondered if these where supposed to implement a crude PFC by modulating the voltage feedback signal from U102 in time with the mains, but that can't be right... Then I wondered if they're a brown-out protection. That doesn't make much sense either.

In any case, get those devices replaced and see what happens. I take it that the numbers on that schematic are internal part numbers or something? I couldn't find a FET called a "252043", but I reckon anything should do just to prove the point.
 
That's right - I've literally just read the same paragraph myself. Just browsing through the manual...

If that's the case then the supply itself should run fine with Q103 simply removed, shouldn't it?

As an aside, I'd completely misunderstood the kind of equipment that we where dealing with here... I'd assumed it was a PA sub, maybe 15" or 18"!
 
Yes I agree that it should work with Q103 removed as it is normally non conducting. I should only start to conduct during power down.

Les.
 
That´s right, these two transistors are there to protect the speakers when AC is swiched off, so I can remove then at least for test.

In any case, I replaced them Q104 (K3N SMD code = MMBT3905) by a 2N3905 and Q103 (K72 SMD code = 2N7002) by a VN2222LL.

With them or without them now I get 8,4V at pin 12, this means the power supply doesn´t start up yet but at least the voltage increased at pin 12.

I´ll continue checking things as we still have something getting 4V...
 
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