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problem klipsch sw-450 ampli

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frank213

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hi I have a problem of (VR1) on my sub woofer KLIPSCH SW-450 no records to find the value of my varistor which burns can anyone help me please
 
Nice piece of kit.
Cant help you with the value though, however klipsch are a good firm and will more than likely help you, or send you one for nothing.
 
Nice piece of kit.
Cant help you with the value though, however klipsch are a good firm and will more than likely help you, or send you one for nothing.

Never heard of them? - but perhaps they might send him a service manual for it? - a schematic would help us give him advice, as it's unlikely that the component has 'just died', more likely it's gone as a result of something else.
 
thank you, I call home KLIPSCH they replied: sorry we offer no service manual ... !!! Brief zero for me. My amp, with Current overload blew up my fuse and a varistor ??? who is in the photo (VR1) has melted and I can not repair. Anyway here's where I am, Klipsch does not sell data sheet for their product. Do you have a solution to my problem? Thank you to answer
 
Never heard of them?
Klipsch is an American audio manufacturer founded in 1946. It has been known for its monster sized horn loaded speakers that were very sensitive.

EDIT: Where was the rrrrr? Brits never say "r", they say watah instead of water.
 
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hi I have a problem of (VR1) on my sub woofer KLIPSCH SW-450 no records to find the value of my varistor which burns can anyone help me please

thank you, I call home KLIPSCH they replied: sorry we offer no service manual ... !!! Brief zero for me. My amp, with Current overload blew up my fuse and a varistor ??? who is in the photo (VR1) has melted and I can not repair. Anyway here's where I am, Klipsch does not sell data sheet for their product. Do you have a solution to my problem? Thank you to answer..!
 
If the fuse and varistor fried then the cause of the current overload needs to be identified, otherwise they'll simply fry again if you replace them :(.
 
That explains it then :D
If the fuse and varistor fried then the cause of the current overload needs to be identified, otherwise they'll simply fry again if you replace them :(.
The problem of surge came from the electrical outlet and not the subwoofer, the electricity was settled. I also change the fuse in the subwoofer and it remains for me to identify with your help, the defective piece (VR1) see the picture thank you:(
 
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If you trace out the schematic between the mains input and the main reservoir capacitors it would give us more chance of finding a replacement part. We need to be sure weather it is a varistor or an NTC thermistor surge limiter. (Both types of device look very similar) It should be possible to identify which type of device it is from it's position in the circuit. Also what is the rating of the fuse and what was the problem with the mains supply. (What voltage did it go up to and for how long was the unit connected while the supply was faulty. Or was it just a fast transient spike ?)

Les.
 
**broken link removed**
Here's the picture of the damage that the VR1 caused. I had tested and cleaned all the circuits
Everything is fine.
**broken link removed**
Here you can see the VR1 location near the "C12" and also another view of the damage it caused.
**broken link removed**

Here's the piece I've founded at the place where the VR1 is located. It's all burned and I cannot identify the piece description. It went up to 220 volts in about 15-20 seconds everywhere in the house and I heard two small explosions. Then I cut off the power to the house. The fuse is T4AL 250 volt that burned as you can see in the last picture. Wish you can help me with this now.
 
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As you seem to be saying that the unit works without this component fitted then it must be a varistor. (MOV) I think a V130LA20A or V130LA10A would be a suitable replacement part. I would use the first item if it will fit. (It is 20 mm dia.) The second item is 14 mm dia.

Les.
 
You're going to need to thoroughly clean the carbon marks off of the board, otherwise it will conduct when you apply power and cause more damage. I suggest cleaning using a fine wire brush, or a hard-bristled toothbrush. A little ispropyl alcohol could help. Also make sure that the surrounding resistors and capacitors are still OK.
 
Excellent, nice to see success.

Nige klipsch made their name with the klipsch horn, a huge thing that went in the corner of the room, I think it was 70's, to me they resemble a karlson design which was also popular.
 
Used to deal with Klipsch crew and had no trouble getting information as long as it was designed/made in Hope, Arkansas.
No doubt they had to change and go the overseas route to be able to compete. More than likely there is no repair on that unit--it is all at board level and there is no component troubleshooting---hence no diagrams which is sad but true.
Not sure what part of the world you are but the specific Part number was made by TKs (Taiwanese firm) and may not easy to find.
Generic base number is (V14621U)
Panasonic's version more readily available; ERZV14D621
 
In the old days when 10W was a lot of power from a tube (valve) amp a sensitive speaker was desired if a concert sound level was desired. The large horn speakers, such as those made by Klipsch (105 dB 1W / 1M), met that requirement, giving a high sound level with only a few watts of power.
 
I spose modern drivers dont need to be that concerned about spl, as power is easily provided, and I think they load up cones with more mass to lower resonance and improve bass response which costs in spl.

I have a 70's crown power amp which is a work of art, and a recent crown csl which is still a good amp but not a patch on the old ones build quality wise, as mentioned however they need to throw them togther to compete.
 
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