pic compiling/programming questions

[be80be]

you can send and receive on one wire if you had read some of what i posted you would have new that you can program a pic 16f84 with the serial line a not more then a few resistors taits i think showrd how about 10 years ago. If it works you no it's right lol. If it don't you do it agin lol.

ICSPDAT I/O Data input/output – Schmitt Trigger input

I = Input, O = Output, P = Power
Note 1: In the PIC12F6XX/16F6XX, the programming high voltage is internally generated. To activate the
Program/Verify mode, high voltage needs to be applied to MCLR input. Since the MCLR is used for a level
source, MCLR does not draw any significant current.

 

[blueroomelectronics]

OK one more time.

1. The ProPIC2 is a parallel programmer
2. It uses a DE9 connector in that schematic but you need to build a DE9 to DB25 cable adapter.
3. Built it as shown if you want any chance of it working, making design modifications with no understanding of what the parts are for makes no sense.
4. If you have a modern OS (XP, Vista) you'll have to install drivers that allow direct control over the ports.
5. Find a good local parts reseller, The Source (Radio Shack) is expensive and has a very very limited selection of ICs, parts etc...

 

[be80be]

I posted what pins to use Bill but like you said

Built it as shown if you want any chance of it working, making design modifications with no understanding of what the parts are for makes no sense.

A programmer Is not easy to make work even if you no what and how it works. And if you can't see how the cable is made let alone how it all works together. I don't see him getting it to work. I been playing with the pickit2 Schematic trying to make a simple programmer with easy to get parts. Not easy. The transistors I picked to use for the fet's didn't work. So I ordered some fets from the UK like what you used in the junebug. When they get here I'll have a working junebug to. To make a long story short it would have been
cheaper to buy a pickit2 then build it. And it would work the first time LOL

 

[blueroomelectronics]

Almost any switching transistors will work, PN2222A, 2N3904 etc... Skip the FETs if you can't easily get them it'll work with the SD on the BS250 jumpered. (or jumper +5V to U5V as that will do the same thing.)
Most find the inductor the tricky bit, 540uH thru 820uH work well.

 

[breadboardguy]

Find a good local parts reseller, The Source (Radio Shack) is expensive and has a very very limited selection of ICs, parts etc...

I have a very big one at 1 hour from me, its called addison(they have all the parts needed). The only problem is that some parts they sell are not always sold at it is an surplus seller.

The ProPIC2 is a parallel programmer
It uses a DE9 connector in that schematic but you need to build a DE9 to DB25 cable adapter.

Its all okay now.
I dont think that i will use a db9 adapter, not really worth it.

 

[skyhawk]

I posted what pins to use Bill but like you said A programmer Is not easy to make work even if you no what and how it works. And if you can't see how the cable is made let alone how it all works together. I don't see him getting it to work. I been playing with the pickit2 Schematic trying to make a simple programmer with easy to get parts. Not easy. The transistors I picked to use for the fet's didn't work. So I ordered some fets from the UK like what you used in the junebug. When they get here I'll have a working junebug to. To make a long story short it would have been
cheaper to buy a pickit2 then build it. And it would work the first time LOL

I'm going to have to disagree with you. If you have a way to program the 18F2550 a pickit2 clone is not hard to build. I have a genuine pickit2 and have built 3 clones as spares/loaners using Bill's schematics. The parts for a "stripped down" clone without the variable programming voltage and eeproms are about $10. So I can build 3 clones for less than the the price of one genuine pickit2. Most parts came from Futurlec: transistors, fets, inductor, crystal, resistors, capacitors, socket, and stripboard. The USB connector and the 18F2550 were from Newark.

The first clone was built on a large strip board since I wasn't sure about how much space was needed. It would have worked the first try except in my rush I forgot to connect the feedback circuit for the VPP. I fixed that, and it worked. The second two worked when power was first applied. They were both built on a smaller stripboard since I had gotten some experience with parts placement on the first try.

When I get some time I would like to build another, this time including the variable programming voltage feature.

IIRC I could have gotten all the parts from Newark, but the inductor and fets were significantly cheaper from Futurlec. Shipping from Newark is fast, order early in the week and have the parts for the weekend. Parts from Futurlec can take two weeks or sometimes more. I try to keep a stock of common parts by ordering ahead of need from Futurlec. They have very good prices on connectors, headers, common frequency crystals, resonators and stripboard. I have really stocked up on stripboard from Futurlec since I don't have any other easy source.

 

[be80be]

I'm going to have to disagree with you. If you have a way to program the 18F2550 a pickit2 clone

skyhawk you can disagree all you want that's your right. But it has not one thing to do with what I'm saying. I didn't build Bill's junebug I didn't build a pickit2 I made My own I worked out what was happen in there design and rolled my own. I have no problem programming and pic I have the programmers needed. If I had just built a pickit2 clone that's what I would have no fun in that. My point is if you can't tell what is what even with the cable how are you going to change it and build your own. And yes it would be cheaper to buy if you don't no what's going on. I'm going to finish a junebug of bills. But I was trying to show him about building his own it's not easy to make your own. Here is one I made that uses the pickit2
firmware
**broken link removed**
not real nice looking the boards to small LOL

 

[breadboardguy]

Most find the inductor the tricky bit, 540uH thru 820uH work well

Do i absolutely have to use an inductor? Because i dont see one in the propic2 schematic.What would be its purpose?

 

[be80be]

breadboardguy what chips do want to program?
You don't need a inductor that's a usb programmer I just posted it to show I'm not all talk. I have made my own programmer.

 

[breadboardguy]

Most find the inductor the tricky bit, 540uH thru 820uH work well.

I want to program the 16 f family.(and maybe 18f)

 

[be80be]

What chips do you have If you haven't got any try this programmer to start and learn with
and then move on https://web.archive.org/web/20080122111933/http://www.stolz.de.be/
It programs a lot of 16fxxx chips that can use LVP. Now it just to get your feet wet. Just some thing to start with. Try the
Low voltage program cable. on the left of the page.

 

[be80be]

Once you play with that one for a while then make a JDM2 then you can make your own
pickit2 clone just move up as you learn.

 

[breadboardguy]

I dont want to make an low voltage programming or icsp too. I will make something very similar to propic2 and with my own settings in winpic800.

 

[be80be]

You source it not sink it. If you learn what i posted you could build it start small and work up. Try the one I showed you and see how it works you can change it to use higher volts to mclr later.
[embed]http://www.youtube.com/v/_4Rtj1x6kGM&hl=en&fs=1[/embed]

 

[breadboardguy]

My big problem is that i cant build simple and go on, i need to plan exactly what i want because i dont want to ship 20$ for a few transistors from newark or so. ( and i can go to my local supplier only once a month because it is far from my house and my father is okay to get me there once a month.

No, i d'rather take my time, learn more about it on internet and make a simple but effective programmer that i will keep to program all my future pics(A universal one with just pgm, pgd,vpp,vdd and ground wires as outputs of the programmer that i will connect to a breadboard to the pic)

 

[skyhawk]

My big problem is that i cant build simple and go on, i need to plan exactly what i want because i dont want to ship 20$ for a few transistors from newark or so. ( and i can go to my local supplier only once a month because it is far from my house and my father is okay to get me there once a month.

No, i d'rather take my time, learn more about it on internet and make a simple but effective programmer that i will keep to program all my future pics(A universal one with just pgm, pgd,vpp,vdd and ground wires as outputs of the programmer that i will connect to a breadboard to the pic)

I don't know about shipping costs to Canada, but here in the states my shipping costs were about $7 not $20. I also make reasonable sized orders so that shipping is only about 15 or 20% of total cost. The costs of a long distance trip are not insignificant. It can cost $.10 or more per mile for gas alone not counting wear and tear on a car. I would rather skip the drive and have the parts delivered to my door.

If you are willing to wait you can order parts from Futurlec. The standard shipping costs on orders under $29 is $4 and their prices are good. The problem with Futurlec is that delivery may take 2 weeks.

I will repeat my advice once more. Build the Tait, program your 16F628A, get experience. After you get experience you will know how to use the programmer to program other chips. The cost of parts for a Tait is probably $4 or $5. When you buy parts for your programmer order some frequently used parts like common value resistors and capacitors, common pnp and npn transistors, sockets, etc. If you are going to work in electronics, you need a stocked parts box.

There comes a point when it is time to quit talking (or posting in this case) and to build and program instead.

 

[breadboardguy]

There comes a point when it is time to quit talking (or posting in this case) and to build and program instead.

I copy.Should had a long time ago.

 

[be80be]

skyhawk i showed him a almost free programmer and that's the chip I programed a 16f628a
all you need is 4 10k resistors and a old db9 cable.

 

[breadboardguy]

Yay! i finally got my .hex file! ( i had to figure on my own, the list of thing to do of be80be was not working for me...).I used quickbuild thingy.

 

[be80be]

That's grate whats your program do