Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

PCB Board Dip Switch bypass/jumper latch button

Status
Not open for further replies.

IvanDP

New Member
Howdy! So I have a project that I am working on to make a dip switch bypass on a PCB board, it goes to a paintball marker, the dip switch is used to set the marker into programming mode but unfortunately, you have to open up the grips all the way to access it. My idea was to bypass the toggle switch, shown below, the right dip circuit is the one that turns programming on and off, and relocate that circuit externally via a button. I tested the theory with a paper clip and it worked as I knew it would, sourced some 12mm latching switches that I can attach, but I am wondering, without soldering, what would be the best way to attach to the circuit? There is a PCB mounting screw in close proximity that I could attach a bracket to, but I would need some type of pads to attach to and I am not down with all the PCB lingo to know what to look for, I was thinking a spring clip of sorts perhaps? Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Image 1, the issue
Image 2, the idea.

129732985_2171319496334182_5404234472883934714_n.jpg
130256010_3409402682618963_2894339683891565896_n.jpg
 
You can try the conductive epoxy on the market. Used to repair rear window defrosters on cars so I would head to an auto parts store.
Someone experienced in soldering should be able to tin the wires on your new switch and then tack the wires down with little (no) risk of damaging the PCB.

also, any attempt to add clips or springs will end in sadness because it is so difficult to secure something like that. A pull on the wire will dislodge it so you'll have more work than simply disassembling it.

Be careful with the conductive epoxy, it can make a mess if you are not used to transferring it so I would practice with some wire and a penny to make a neat bond before moving on to your device.

also, how old is that device? We were just chatting on another thread about how old the Microchip 16F628A chip is and now I see one in the wild. Also, how are you reprogramming it. Loading new code into the microcontroller or just pushing a button to let the chip adjust to new settings?
 
Last edited:
You can try the conductive epoxy on the market. Used to repair rear window defrosters on cars so I would head to an auto parts store.
Someone experienced in soldering should be able to tin the wires on your new switch and then tack the wires down with little (no) risk of damaging the PCB.

also, any attempt to add clips or springs will end in sadness because it is so difficult to secure something like that. A pull on the wire will dislodge it so you'll have more work than simply disassembling it.

Be careful with the conductive epoxy, it can make a mess if you are not used to transferring it so I would practice with some wire and a penny to make a neat bond before moving on to your device.

also, how old is that device? We were just chatting on another thread about how old the Microchip 16F628A chip is and now I see one in the wild. Also, how are you reprogramming it. Loading new code into the microcontroller or just pushing a button to let the chip adjust to new settings?

It's from a Dye Matrix 2014, the dip switch controls the programing mode, off/up is normal or run mode, down/on is programming mode, right dip switch that is, the board has to be turned off and then switched/powered on to enter programming mode, and then turned off with the board on to exit/power down the board, so it's quite the operation as the switch head itself is narrower than the tip of a toothpick lol. The settings themselves are basic, firing modes, firing speed, solenoid dwell, and something else, but for testing and tuning purposes the mod will be a lifesaver and cost under $5. I was thinking of making a cutout piece that would use the mounting screws to hold the wiring and pads in place, kind of like adding a second layer to the PCB, and I figure since these boards were machine-made, they will generally have close tolerances as to where everything is, if it were to be an aftermarket mod that is.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top