My central lock alarm system does not work

[Les Jones]

1.6 volts will not be enough to operate a relay. Did the voltage go back to zero after 1.5 seconds ? You could repeat the test with the meter lead that was connected to + 12 volts connected to 0 volts (The metalwork of the car or the negative terminal of the battery.)

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Blip:
It's likely fine. Your dealing with 500 mS and likely the autoranging of the multimeter. So, you can either do:
1) leave it alone
2) Increase the time to 3.5 s (jumper on alarm system); Could be done for all tests.
3) Measure it without being in auto range.
4) Use like a 1K resistor, LED and diode as a test light, but be careful.
5) Connect a relay and listen for a click.

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The forum doesn't like upper case .JPG extensions. Use .jpg

 

[Les Jones]

I've made another mistake. I remembered the pulse duration incorrectly. I wrote 1.5 seconds when it should have been 0.5 seconds. I noticed this when I was looking back through the posts to see if the OP had given a clue to which time zone she was in as it is not in her profile. I had assumed it was a man until I looked at the profile.

Les.

 

[yash01]

I have set my multimeter on auto range

When I will return home I try it with led light

Lol lee I'm a man

 

[alec_t]

Lol lee I'm a man

That's not what your avatar indicates .

 

[yash01]

I have noticed that there are 4 four pins and there are no jumper on them. Near the four pins it's written "gnd swim +5V NRST"


I have got 2 relay can I used them ?

That's not what your avatar indicates .

it's a big mistake I have change it

 

[Les Jones]

The relays in the picture are not suitable. You need at least one set of changeover contacts. It is very unlikely that anyone will recognise your alarm so you need to find the manufacturer and get a manual. The diagram on the cover does not match the pins on the board.

Les.

 

[yash01]

This relay too I can't use it ?


I have try all way to get this manual but I have not find it

 

[Les Jones]

I see you have now corrected your profile.
Both of the relays in your pictures are single pole normaly open contact relays. You need change over contacts also called SPDT (Single pole double throw) NOTE a lot of the relays on ebay advertised as SPDT relay are only single pole normaly open contacts.

Les,

 

[yash01]

I see you have now corrected your profile.

Really needed to change it

Both of the relays in your pictures are single pole normaly open contact relays. You need change over contacts also called SPDT (Single pole double throw) NOTE a lot of the relays on ebay advertised as SPDT relay are only single pole normaly open contacts.

I will need to buy this relay, hope that it will work

 

[yash01]

I have increased the time, now I'm getting 11.86v on the lock or unlock cable

I have purchased 2 relays, here is the picture , I have wired it like it should but still it does not work

What have I done wrong again?

 

[Les Jones]

when you say you are getting 11.86 volts on the lock or unlock cables is this -11.86 volts with respect to + 12 volts OR +11.86 volts with respect to ground ? Could you hear a click from the relays when the lock / unlock outputs changed state ?

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Baby steps:

Take 85 on both relays and connect to +12 always (e.g. alarm power)
Take 86 of the Lock relay and connect to the lock output.
Take Term 86 of the Unlock relay and connect to the unlock output.

Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.
The relay should click too.

Ideally, put a diode from pin 85 to pin 86 with the band facing 85. (This is for protection for the alarm electronics). It should be added, but strictly not necessary for testing.

 

[yash01]

when you say you are getting 11.86 volts on the lock or unlock cables is this -11.86 volts with respect to + 12 volts OR +11.86 volts with respect to ground ?

I have recheck it's +12.08 volts to ground

Could you hear a click from the relays when the lock / unlock outputs changed state ?

NO I don't hear any click from the new relay. The relay does not even energized

Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.

Its zero on the pin 30 and 87a on each relay

The relay should click too.

The relay does not energized and I don't hear any click

when I put one probe to 86 and another probe to ground I got 12.78v on each relay. I have done same for the 30 pin to ground and got 12.43v

 

[Les Jones]

The outputs work the opposite way round to the the diagram on the case of the alarm so we need to change the way it is connected. This is the modified schematic.

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Les:

Your schematic is wrong, again!

The alarm outputs (lock and unlock) are negative triggers not positive triggers. They really should be called ~LOCK (NOT LOCK) and ~UNLOCK (NOT UNLOCK).

It also MIGHT be REASONABLE to keep LOCK POWER and ALARM POWER separate. Do not know about that one. At least show it separately.

Pros or "Good things" (separate power): You'll know if an actuator is bad because alarm will not work, but the OP will likely know anyway because of buttons. If actuator wiring shorts, alarm still works without the door locks.

Cons "Bad things" (separate power): Can not think of one.



↑

Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.

Its zero on the pin 30 and 87a on each relay

This assumes that nothing is connected to 30. (In baby step world: nothing connected to 30, 87a and 87) AND the ohmmeter is connected between pins 30 and 87a. Initially, the pins would appear shorted and would open with either a LOCK/UNLOCK command respectively from the alarm system.

Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.

For the purposes of translation:
PRO is defined as "good things"
CONS is defined as "bad things"
No contractions. "do not" is used instead of don't.
the OP/TS is defined as "The original poster" or the "Thread Starter".

 

[Les Jones]

Hi KISS,
yash01's reply in post #54 suggests that the lock outputs go to +12 volts with respect to ground. (Not -12 volts with respect to +12 volts as we expected from the diagram.)

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Les:

Go with the diagram. The "Ignition cutoff relay" is shown as (-) with the +12 and my alarm knowledge says it's likely (-) as well.

There are still translation (Google translate) issues.

There is also issues with us as to not being specific enough.

Black probe connected to (-) of meter.
Red probe connected to (+) of meter.
Disconnect anything going to the Lock wire on the alarm system.
Connect the red wire of the meter to some source of 12V.
Connect the black wire of the meter to Lock
Observe meter - You should have 0 Volts
Activate Lock - You should have "some voltage pulse" for a second or so.

The should have 12 V is ideal. You might actually have 12 V for this test in both conditions because of leakage currents, so nothing might happen.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Useful blurb:

https://www.accessconnect.com/car_relays.htm

It seems like the auto industry wants pin 85 positive. Note info about protection diodes as well.

 

[yash01]

i KISS,
yash01's reply in post #54 suggests that the lock outputs go to +12 volts with respect to ground. (Not -12 volts with respect to +12 volts as we expected from the diagram.)

Sorry, it's +12.08v to +12 volts when pressing lock or unlock on the remote button

I do not know why the relay is not getting energize.


The relay is still in good condition because I have test it's coils by connecting 12v to 85 pin and ground to 86 pin

Sorry again for my mistakes.