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Make rectifier to fast charge on bike

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chuki2

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Hello all..

I have some question to ask...

My bike use AC system that mean,my headlamp bulb turn ON using magneto from engine..

So have convert my headlamp bubl to HID bulb.So HID cannot ON if use magneto from engine. And must use Direct from batery..

When i use direct batery,can use around 2 hour only until weak.

So i have found this diagram to dicuss with you all.

This diagram show to how to make FAST CHARGE..

This diagram can use??or any suggestion??

Spec:
Wet Batery 5AH.
HID 35watt

Picture
**broken link removed**

Thanks all
 
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That is only a half-wave rectifier, which is inefficient and produces undesirable DC current in the alternator. A full wave bridge circuit would be much better. A three-phase bridge rectifier is even better, if you have 3-phase voltage available from the magneto.

You don't need capacitor C1. The battery acts as a large capacitor.
 
That is only a half-wave rectifier, which is inefficient and produces undesirable DC current in the alternator. A full wave bridge circuit would be much better. A three-phase bridge rectifier is even better, if you have 3-phase voltage available from the magneto.

You don't need capacitor C1. The battery acts as a large capacitor.
Thank for reply....

My bike only use single phase...small bike...:D..

So if i use this diagram,is should work??
No have overvoltage?
 
Without having anything to limit the current then the over-charging battery might boil dry soon.
 
My bike only use single phase...small bike...

So do you have access to two wires coming out of the stator winding, or is one of the wires internally grounded (you cannot un-ground it)?
 
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It may be easier to just isolate the magneto leads and then run them to a common off the shelf charge regulator like what is on many small engines. Check with you local lawn and garden service shop or automotive store.

They are about the size of a deck of cards and have a three terminal connection. Onan, Kohler, B&S all use a similar design so just ask for one of those and compare the price.

They run around $25 - $40 and take a two line AC input from a magneto type alternator and convert it to a regulated 12 volts at up to around 20 amps if the magneto can supply that much.
 
Without having anything to limit the current then the over-charging battery might boil dry soon.
Ok i noted...before boil dry soon..i will refill back water..can do that?

It may be easier to just isolate the magneto leads and then run them to a common off the shelf charge regulator like what is on many small engines. Check with you local lawn and garden service shop or automotive store.

They are about the size of a deck of cards and have a three terminal connection. Onan, Kohler, B&S all use a similar design so just ask for one of those and compare the price.

They run around $25 - $40 and take a two line AC input from a magneto type alternator and convert it to a regulated 12 volts at up to around 20 amps if the magneto can supply that much.
Do u have picture of that??

I think that diagram share to you all is automatic OVERVOLTAGE..when HID off,relay will connect..when HID on,relay will disconnect then wire from magneto will connect to diod,C1 then going to (+) batery...I think can safe batery....is true??
 
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Here is what they most commonly look like.

These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.

They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.

DCP02205.JPG
 
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Here is what they most commonly look like.

These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.

They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.

View attachment 45883

So counting the frame ground, there are four connections? Presumably, the battery also connects to the frame ground on the module?

These also require the stator winding to be a two-wire AC output, both wires isolated from ground?
 
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Here is what they most commonly look like.

These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.

They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.

View attachment 45883
Hye sir...what is called this part??

**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**
This is fullwave...so how setup limit below 12v??
is safe to use??


**broken link removed**
I have installed fast charge from this diagram...but my bulb crash,controller for HID damage...
 
convert 2.5Amp rectifier into 5Amp

I have a Yamaha Rx 100 and has replaced the 2.5A battery with 5A and changed lighting system from ac to dc but the battery gets low within 15 to 20 min after full charge

My bike has a regulator cum rectifier with 3 pins

Can some one plz help me to charge the battery faster

I have not understood the diagram
I m using 12v 35/35w halogen bulb
 
Batteries are not rated in amps (A), they are rated in amp-hours (Ah).
A 5Ah battery is pretty small and can provide 0.25A for 20 hours or maybe 0.5A for 10 hours. It might provide 5A for about 15 minutes.

Your 35W light draws (35W/12V)= 2.92A if the battery is nearly dead at 12.0V or maybe 3.2A when the battery is fully charged at 12.6V.
Then one charge on the battery will light for about 20 minutes with the light dimming for the final 5 minutes.

The battery should have a rating about the max allowed charging current which determines how fast it can charge.
 
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