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Junebug Assembly Tips

Discussion in 'Microcontrollers' started by Krumlink, Nov 5, 2007.

  1. eng1

    eng1 New Member

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    That's been a frequent issue with LEDs I've recently received! The wrong side of the package was flattened; however, the longest lead is the anode, exactly as one would expect.
     
  2. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Just a thought, since the Junebugs display is charlieplexed the LED should have turned on at one point with the blinky demo even if it was in backwards. So it's either a cold solder joint, broken trace or dead LED.
     
  3. thekyguy11

    thekyguy11 New Member

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    Just thought I'd report that I finally got the Junebug working 100%! Couldn't have done it without everyone's help. Must've all been caused by a dud LED, then things got complicated when I removed the bad LED, but I got it all fixed and cleaned up now.

    Next step: Learn how to write code!
     
  4. dave

    Dave New Member

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  5. Krumlink

    Krumlink New Member

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    For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)
     
  6. mvs sarma

    mvs sarma Well-Known Member

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    I test light the LED with a battery and resistor and if needed cut one lead short to maintain the accepted standard and thereafter follow lead length and don't look at flat surface.
     
  7. the_scavenger

    the_scavenger New Member

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    Hi, guys!

    I've made a Junebug (just the programmer & debugger part) on a test board. Used a modified JDM to write PK2V021000.hex in the pic18f2550, but I still get "USB device not recognized" message when I plug it on my PC..

    Measured 5V on U5V, and 3.3V over the 0.47uF capacitor. If I press the bootloader switch the red led blinks: I guess the oscillator is running, so is the firmware inside. Maybe some configuration bit was set wrong (but how!)?

    I overchecked the connexions and it appears to be ok.

    What should I do? :|
     
  8. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    On an early version of the schematic the USB D+ and D- lines were swapped. Try reversing them. They are correct on the PCB and the current Junebug manual.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2008
  9. the_scavenger

    the_scavenger New Member

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    Yes, you're right, the D+ and D- pins were swapped (because I didnt't verify this in the pic's datasheet..). Thanks, Bill!

    My Junebug it's not the best looking one, but is small and it fits in a 7x4 (cm) plastic box. Now it seems to work fine (it passed the troubleshooting test in Pickit2). I just need to build a test board for it (maybe Unicorn ?).

    I'll attach a picture of it (while it is connected and running :) ):

    [​IMG]
     
  10. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Very nice, looks terrific. The Unicorn is a good choice if you want to work with LCDs or GLCDs.
     
  11. August Treubig

    August Treubig Member

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    My PicKit2 part of the Junebug

    This is my Junebug version of the PicKit2.

    MyPicKit2.jpg


    It is built on stripboard so it is kinda big but it works.
     
  12. Pommie

    Pommie Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    Nice job August and the scavenger. You should also consider adding (or building seperately) the tutor part. It makes trying out ideas so much quicker.

    Mike.
     
  13. August Treubig

    August Treubig Member

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    Junebug meets Nigel

    Pommie,

    Actually I built a Nigel sort of version that has a 18F1320 on it. I still need to build the I/O boards for it yet.
     
  14. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Looks pretty neat August, my first prototype was point to point using 30guage Kynar.
    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    Looks nice from the top Bill, how about a picture of the bottom? :D
     
  16. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, it's pretty natty but it works. Do you really want to see it?
     
  17. mvs sarma

    mvs sarma Well-Known Member

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    I feel, Hand wiring will work reasonably well at these frequencies. Only when a data or port bus wiring is involved, that too at higher speeds are involved, perhaps path lengths matter. thus there also hand wiring might work, compared to difficulties of artwork routing restrictions.
    At the outset, the component overlay has been really nice.
     
  18. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    Yes, be interesting to see - bear in mind a lot of mainframe computers were all hand wired.
     
  19. parts-man73

    parts-man73 New Member

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    Just received my Junebug kit yesterday. One minor question on assembly.

    Most pictures I have seen show L1 as a green large bodied inductor. resistor like in appearance.

    I think I've narrowed down the list of possible suspects in my kit to a large black bodied inductor looks like a huge diode without a polarity stripe.

    There is also a smaller one that I am assuming is FB1.

    Brian
     
  20. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    The big one is the inductor, the small one is FB1 the ferrite bead.
     
  21. parts-man73

    parts-man73 New Member

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    Thank you for verifying my suspicions. I'd hate to have it soldered together to find out it was the other way round.

    Now I have to break out the maginifying glass to figure out which transistors are which! :eek:
     

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