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Having a little problem with PCB making .

Discussion in 'Circuit Simulation & PCB Design' started by BGAmodz, Nov 3, 2013.

  1. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    After choosing the right PIC USB programmer schematic i have decided to make a PCB with the help of traditional methods using :
    Clothes iron
    Ferrite chloride ( copper remover )
    Copper surface.
    Lazer printer .
    Normal A4 paper .
    Liquid soap .


    Now according to the tutorial , i :
    Printed the schematic on the paper ( Normal A4 paper ) , i have done that using lazer printer .
    Let the clothes iron to heat up at max temp.
    Put the paper on the copper surface
    applied heat with pressure on the paper using the iron
    After that i have directly put it in the liquid soap ( this is supposed to make the paper peel off easily from the copper surface ) and let it for about 4 minutes.

    Now the problem is in the peeling process, i peel off the paper but there is a thin paper layer that is hard to remove , when i try to remove it with my hand the ink gets removed with it too .

    Any ways i have continued the process , now i have to put the copper surface on the ferrite chloride to remove the copper and only the copper beneath the ink should stay .

    After doing that i see the copper disappearing , i have left to to disappear entirely .

    Now i only see the schematic lines alone witch is good , but the problem is that the ink is still hard to remove to let the copper lines appear ( probably because i did not remove all the paper in the previous step ?? )

    I hope some one help me out on this .
     
  2. ronsimpson

    ronsimpson Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    I used rice paper because it dissolves in water better. (this has been years ago)
     
  3. jpanhalt

    jpanhalt Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    Use acetone or MEK to remove the toner/ink. Nail polish remover can be used, but is more expensive and may leave some residue.

    John
     
  4. dave

    Dave New Member

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  5. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    Thanks , i guess the problem is the paper am using .
    What type of paper is advised ?
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  6. alec_t

    alec_t Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    Ordinary printed glossy magazine/catalogue paper gets good reports. I've not tried it.
     
  7. jpanhalt

    jpanhalt Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    I thought you had the etched board. If you can't remove the toner with solvent, use a fresh razor blade as a scraper, like when you remove paint from glass. Just slide it under the resist and do a final clean up with solvent. You can also use a 3M, non-metallic abrasive pad.

    John
     
  8. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    Thanks for the help , i have actually managed to get rid of the ink manually , the PCB looks nice though , but am sure it will look nicer with the right paper .
     
  9. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    BTW this is the PCB layout , and i wonder what is a good alternative for the L1 component (VK200 self ) , am not sure i will find one like it easily .
    [​IMG]
     
  10. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Top looks nice lets see the back side.

    I know you know but it is art work and not the schematic that you are transferring. Would be a real trick to only have to do the schematic ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  11. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    No this is just the layout posted on the tutorial , its not me who designed it , am just making one based on it

    As i said before i managed to remove the ink from the copper , now i have to use a small drill .

    could i just use a strap as a replacement for the VK200 self L1 ?
     
  12. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    It depends on what L1 is used for. If it is part of a charge pump you must have it. If it is just to smooth power like a ferrite bead then you might get by without it.

    Link to the project ?
     
  13. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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  14. jpanhalt

    jpanhalt Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    Looks to me like it is part of a noise filter on the USB 5V supply:
    upload_2013-11-3_16-31-57.png

    John
     
  15. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    I think i will make one with simple ferrite circle
     
  16. Joe G

    Joe G Member

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    (Now the problem is in the peeling process, i peel off the paper but there is a thin paper layer that is hard to remove , when i try to remove it with my hand the ink gets removed with it too .)

    don't forget to clean the board w/ a solvent (I use acetone) before applying the iron. Make sure it's cleaned and dry.
     
  17. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    That what i got on the first try , unfortunately i had to recover some tracks with tin .

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Not bad for a first go and with regular paper.

    If you can find rice paper you can give that a try. Color pages from SOME magazines work. Finding which can be a trial.

    PulsarPro sells a paper coated with starch. The paper falls off the board about a minute after you put it in the water.
     
  19. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    Hey thanks

    Next time i'll try to make better ones .

    Do you have an idea on a good PCB design software ?? i have some PWM circuits to make .
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2013
  20. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Yup I am a big fan of eagle. I used to make my PCBs but now have OSHpark make them. You get 3 copies of the board at $3 sq inch including shipping. Nice boards too and they take the eagle files.
     
  21. BGAmodz

    BGAmodz Member

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    Eagle sounds good .

    Right now am reading a book about SMPSs , hopefully i will learn enough from it to make my own , also planning to make PCBs based on that power supply and a
    PWM design .
     

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