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GTP Programmer LITE

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theo92

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The old serial or parrael based PIC programmers are old now. So, I gonna build A GTP USB lite programmer with PIC18F2550 which I got from Microchip Samples. NOw is it truly works with every PICs which belongs to 12F, 16F and 18F serise? did somebody test it?:)

There are some variations between them.
This one is from
What about it? does it works?

This is another from [URL="https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/gtp-usb-lite.32796/"]https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/gtp-usb-lite.32796/

Does it work? I'd like to build it happily. I've all the components in my hand.

I have no programmer in my hand so how to program the PIC12F2550. There is a solution www.foxdelta.com/products/ programmer/art2003/art2003prog.pdf
Tell me does my plan is correct or not.
 
If you are going to build a programmer using the 18F2550 build a PICkit2 or a Junebug (PICkit2) clone.

They are both supported by microchip and have many advantages over the simple designs you are looling at. We have been over this several time. Check posts on this site.
 
JUNEBUG is too much complicated and quite difficult to build in completly DIY way. As I live in india, the shipping cost will be tooo much If i want to buy it.

Finally, I go for this:

**broken link removed**

This is my last and final decision is to make it. I have everything in my hand except the mosfets. The mosfets may create a problem...But I'll overcome it, someday.

What about programming PIC18F2550 with ART2003 that I mentioned in my earlier post?
 
I wouldn't build the GTB either, PICkit2 compatibles like my Junebug use almost exactly the same parts and works with MPLAB & PICkit2 software (including updates)
 
I've built that programmer, and it's really crappy.

It tends to not work with a some chipsets(mostly VIA, it think), and has really inaccurate vpp levels, mine was over 14volts.

Daniel
 
JUNEBUG is too much complicated and quite difficult to build in completly DIY way. As I live in india, the shipping cost will be tooo much If i want to buy it.

Finally, I go for this:

**broken link removed**

This is my last and final decision is to make it. I have everything in my hand except the mosfets. The mosfets may create a problem...But I'll overcome it, someday.

What about programming PIC18F2550 with ART2003 that I mentioned in my earlier post?
If you are wanting only programming and NOT the tutor, you need not assemble the tutor part. As indicted by you rightly BS250 and BS170 are not a problem. Yes, programming the 18F2550 is a problem. You may have to depend on some having a PICKIT2 programmer or a JUNEBUG .

Perhaps, you should build a best programmer (however complicated, instead of suffering every day burning chips the wrong way around. After all you are to handle complicated issues in future as you start developing either hardware or software.

Finally I may be able to help out arranging a programmed 18F2550, of course at actual costs plus postal charges, if you are ready assembled programmer. You may reach me out at any time.
 
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Now I'm confused. I'm really confused, NOw.

What to do?

Oh!!I forget to thank all of you in this happy friendship day.

I'll test this ART2003 programmer. if it works tomorrow.:p

Now, this is the decision making part. Before reading it : :confused::confused:
I've built that programmer, and it's really crappy.

It tends to not work with a some chipsets(mostly VIA, it think), and has really inaccurate vpp levels, mine was over 14volts.

Daniel

Daniel, I've something to ask you...
1: DID you make it on the PCB which was described in the site?
2: DID you make the first version or the second one?
3:I'm using D945GNT chipset from intel. So the Vpp may be correct for me. BUt as a rule thumb did you tried to decrease the vpp voltage using 5* IN4148 diodes, it should drop the voltage by 0.5×5=2.5V. SO finally the vpp should be downed to 14-2.5=11.5V. Did you tried that?:)

Now come to Junebug,
I think it is the best thing to make. And the best replacement for the most crappy "JDM Programmer" which is most probably the worst programmer in the world:( But the cost of the board may low, but the shipping cost from USA to India will be TOO much. SO I can't buy the junebug.

So, I can make a junebug 2 without the tutor. because I don't need it now. But the PCB layout is not available. But I'm very much interested in buying the PCB if someone from India sells ya.

But the scheamtic is available on the manual of junebug. I can easily make a PCB of that. I'll try.

BUT, Please gimmme some suggestions which to build between this 2...I'm too much :confused: ...I just cant wait anymore...

1:- JUNEBUG
OR
2:- **broken link removed** (I love it but daniel says different)
 
hi,

The Junebug will get the job done and its well supported.:)
 
1:- JUNEBUG
OR
2:- **broken link removed** (I love it but daniel says different)
Definitely go for the Junebug. It's simple enough that you could build it on veroboard or other prototyping board with point to point wiring. All the parts are commonly available.

With the Junebug you get excellent Microchip support for all their newest chips.

You can use Microchip's UART tool and their logic analyzer software too. The GTP definitely won't do that.

You get hardware debugging, which is a huge bonus. The GTP almost certainly won't do that either.

Take mvs sarma's kind offer of a pre-programmed 18F2550 at cost. That's an excellent way to get around the chicken and egg problem of needing a pre-programmed PIC to make your PIC programmer work.
 
Thanks to all.

I WILL GO FOR JUNEBUG. The last and final decision here.

But some questions about junebug:

1: What is the purpose of 16 pinned CON3 ? Can I ignore it ?
2: What is the purpose of SW5 ?
3: What is the purpose of FB1 ?
4: Junebug doesn't need any external power supply. So, why there is the lebel "+5V" beside the 12 pin of CON3 ?
5: Will I need to connect the VPP, PGD and PGC from CON3 to CON2 (As I marked in the image)?
 

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Thanks to all.

I WILL GO FOR JUNEBUG. The last and final decision here.

But some questions about junebug:

1: What is the purpose of 16 pinned CON3 ? Can I ignore it ?
If all you want to do is program PICs you can ignore it.
To program serial EEPROMS you need the first 6 pins.
The Junebug and PICkit2 use different ICSP connectors. The Junebug Version is the
5x2. The PICkit2 is duplicated by the first 6 pins of CON3.
2: What is the purpose of SW5 ?
It has several purposes depending on the microchip software in use.
Pushing it while you insert the USB causes the bootloader to look for new software.
Pushing it while in the LA tool causes the LA to stop looking for a trigger.
Pushing it while in the program and go mode causes it to program a chip This one
I have not done and the JuneBug needs to have a serial EEPROM added to make this work. The program and go mode is not often used in the hobby or learning setting.
3: What is the purpose of FB1 ?
It cleans up the power from the USB port. It can be omited.
4: Junebug doesn't need any external power supply. So, why there is the lebel "+5V" beside the 12 pin of CON3 ?
Think of that as +5V out.
5: Will I need to connect the VPP, PGD and PGC from CON3 to CON2 (As I marked in the image)?
No.
.............
 
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Hey.

I meant the GTP lite was crap. I can see how my post is unclear, I just hadn't seen your last post,

Sorry about that.


Daniel
 
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thanks daniel for clearing the matter.

Now, Did somebody sell the only PCB of junebug from India. I live in India.
I've spent a lots of money buying PIC and AVR. So I don't want to expense more for the complete kit.


Again if somebody has a junebug PCB in some digital PCB format (ie eagle or expressPCB etc). Please give it.

And a little about me, I'm a school going boy. I don't have any previous experience in microcontroller. But I experimanted a lots of old analogue stuffs.
I had very small experience of PCB making PCB layout. Once I made two PCBs of LM1875 and LM1876 with help of diyaudio.com members. They really helped me a lot. But they leaved in the digital format because I had no copper clad board or etchant in my hand then.

If somebody or from someplace wants to sell copper clad board and some kinda etchant, write here.

I'm making a PCB of junebug with my own....but it's too much complicated and complex. There may be errors, if I draw it. But I'm trying my best.

So again, if somebody has a junebug PCB in some digital PCB format (ie eagle or expressPCB etc). Please share it with me. It's only for my educational and learning purpose. Not for any kinda sell.
 
Why not just build it on proto board or stripboard (vero board). Stuff like this or this or this. It's cheap and available almost anywhere. Get some 30ga wire-wrap wire and **broken link removed**. It's easier than you think.
 
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Can somebody tell me, If more than 5V (ie 5.2-5.8V) and less that 0 (ie -0.5 to -1.00) is supplied to the programming pins of a PIC (except the MCLR), will it cause damage to it?
 
Hi theo have you experience in making PCBs?

Have you used Eagle before?

I'm also don't have those programmers I don't have money to buy them.

I'm also going to make a PICkit2 clone.But I have drawn some programmers using Eagle.

Will it scare you?

If you like we both get together & make that programmer.
 
My one is something like this.Before making you need to recheck with PICkit2 Lite & with Junebug.

This is a combination of PICkit2 Lite & Vpp control in Junebug.

Give your email address I cannot post here because its not a good idea to post it here.
 

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:):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)INTERESTING LINK:):):):)

I found a link containing a lite version of PicKit2 schmatic from blueroom electronics, ARTCOM 2003 programmer, the hex files even the PCB too.

Please check it here at:https://dlmkerode.tripod.com/PICKIT2.rar

The image of the PICKit 2 schematic is attached here.

Will it work??
 

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Dear Gayan Soyza, We are all inthe same way.

Check it: https://dlmkerode.tripod.com/PICKIT2.rar

It is just the Σ of all the things that we need.

DO you like it, Gayan ? But we both will check the PCB again with

I should check your PCB. I saw it and I think the link I specified is better than yours as it is less complex and really it is easy for me. YOur and mine schematic is EXACTLY same except this point, that your schematic contains a Vpp control, and mine doesn't has it. It makes the circuit complex and add more parts like the MOSFETs.

So why need to be more complex. The PICKit 2 Lite edition (which is in my link) will do everything that we need.

Programmable Vpp is not too much necessary for general purpose, as I think. It's only required when internal MCLR and some other configs turned on.

Again, I strongly recommend you to check the link: https://dlmkerode.tripod.com/PICKIT2.rar :) and decide.

Don't worry to post everything here.:) Don't be selfish to hide your work:D
If you have any problem to post here, just mail me at mailto:paswanath@yahoo.co.in

It is: paswanath@yahoo.co.in
<<Though there is a risk of ∞ number of spams from others>>
 
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