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Yep... you were right. You do want to connect pin 2 to Vcc. I had my pins and polarities mixed up, disregard my first fix and keep the cap and resistor in the top left.
Here is the completed automatic KVM switch, this allows use of two graphics cards hooked to one machine.
It will allow display 1 to be connected to the arcade machine on bootup, once windows/linux loads the KVM will automatically switch to the second output.
a hacked HD4890 using calamity drivers.
The purpose is to allow native bios support for configuration maintenance, then to load a hacked 4890 to have a wide range of resolutions available
Here is a picture of the custom kvm **broken link removed**
It's sad that all of the leg work I did on the PIC is going to be abandon, but It can't be helped. If he found a reliable way to make the KVM work with just a 5V signal, then that will have to do and the PIC circuit becomes unnecessary. As I said, some day, sooner or later, having PS/2 code will probably come in quite handy for me. So It doesn't bother me that we are changing directions. As long as the OP gets his work finished.
Odd... maybe it's the simulation? Or could be my understanding, has been a while since I used a 555. Well, if you tested it, and it worked with your mods, then go ahead and do it your way. Though I may want to investigate why the system is not acting the way I figure it should. You are using a proper NE555 or compatible IC right? There are actually probably thousands of variations on the original design, you could have a different one. I do believe one of the pins is an inverted input, maybe that's where I went wrong...
No no its not like that at all i am still planning to use that what chip should i get thats reprogrammable ?, i just needed something that was working for this weekend as the for the video.
I would love to be able to intergrate your pic code into the machine and if we can add the reset for the computer in aswell thats fantastic!!!
Man, I seem to be sucking really bad at picking up what's going down in this thread for some reason. I'm usually really good at that kind of thing. I guess I need to pay more attention or something. Would help If I didn't have things to do distracting me. Sorry about all the minor mistakes. I must be starting to look really incompetent by now. I'll try harder when things calm down for me.
If your talking for the KVM trigger, then it would be ideal for you to pick up a PIC12F509, as that is exactly what I have. This way the hex will be a perfect fit, and I won't have to port the code over to the 12C508, not that it is very hard honestly. Practically the same part.
Looks like the relay is actually a fully pre-built breakout board, not a bare relay. This probably means that you don't need the diode across it like I had recommended. One will undoubtedly be built into the board already.
Sorry been away, no i dont think you are incompetent at all we all have things to attend too!,
is the PIC12F509 reprogrammable ? yes that relay is a prebuilt one i had laying around it had a diode however the small green tube relay doesnt and that has a diode alongside it .
However that all right there is just a temp solution until we get this pic going, and if we could build in the computer switch inside that would be awesome.
All PIC microcontrolers have an intuitive code to their name. It goes something like this...
PIC-12-F-509
PIC <- This tells you that is is a Microchip brand PIC microcontroler, it will always be "PIC", or it's a clone/knockoff.
12 <- This tells you that it is the lowest end 8 bit microcontroler. There are also 16/18, then it gets into the 16 bit μC's and beyond. There was a "17", but we don't talk about them...
F <- this tells you that the processor uses FLASH for program storage, meaning that it can be rewritten. "C" means ROM, which can only be written to once, unless you are clever.
509 <- This is the specific model of PIC, this has many different variations. The 509 has more RAM and more ROM than the 508. Numbers aren't always incremental, 505 is actually better than both the 508 and 509.
... however the small green tube relay doesnt and that has a diode alongside it .
I have the model number just not with me at the moment, i just finished the mod for the Namco guns they now have Automatic mode, just trying to work out a good firing rate, atm its doing 70 rounds a second. will need to adjust it dont wanna burn out the solenoid not 100% sure what it can handle, doesnt feel like it gets hot but im no expert on them ill have to do some reading
here are some pictures of the mod, **broken link removed** **broken link removed** **broken link removed**
Those recoil guns look like a blast. I may have to find me some of my own and play around with them. So... they have "kick"... Right? Like, the guns push back on your hand when you pull the trigger? Way cool. Wonder if I could do something like that with pneumatics instead...? Make them kick way harder. Solenoid could work good though, if it used a rare earth magnet and was powered directly offline.
Incidentally, the coil/solenoid is probably not what will burn out on you with your mod. It will likely be the black thing just below the spring in the last picture. Or the power supply running it all.
70 rounds a second??? Are you sure that's not 70 rounds a minute? Because... 70 rounds a second would just be a dull buzz, not really automatic gun fire. Though they do make real guns that can shoot that fast. If it were me though, I would aim for 120~240 a minute. Also, I would probably make it three shot burst, that would be a cool effect and safer for the electronics probably. I can make a PIC do all that if you want? You just need to tell me how your current mod hooks into the gun. Hard to tell from just the images.
it was 70 rounds a second i had to adjust the circuit lol way to much,
I was going to make a burst fire mode, but no Arcade game really calls for it, here is a little video of the gun in action.
Yes they have a pretty good kick back, its hard to hold them one handed and shoot in the same spot.
[video=youtube_share;Ad2rFNhMCA0]http://youtu.be/Ad2rFNhMCA0[/video]
You get those PIC12F509's yet? Are you perhaps waiting for me to do anything for you? If so, I was unaware + somewhat busy. I kinda have time now, but I can't really know for sure. I'm on "be ready" so to speak, so I could be working in as little a 2 Hours from now for all I know. Also, I never know how long the work will take. So I could get called upon, but it ends up only taking me an hour and I'm done. Then again, it could take a weak and drain the life out of me. Who knows. (Let's call what I do for a living... "Handy man work.")
In any case, never forget that I'm not the only one on these forums, others are just as good at these kinds of things. Often times more so. So if you are needing to get something done and I'm gone, post it anyway. Someone else may be able to help you.
OK, so, you have the circuit from post #62 built. Did you throw in the HEX from post #63 and give it a try? As I have said, probably won't work right away. But you can try it, it might work.
What we really really really still need is to get that oscillator calibration value out of the blank chip and keep it safe. Scratch it into the plastic of the chip you take it out of. I know I have said it again and again, but this value is absolutely critical if we are to meet proper timing requirements. Which we almost certainly do.
I don't own your programmer, so I don't know how to get it to tell us this critical number. But it should be easy to do. It is the last value in the chips program memory, which would be address 0x3FF or 0x400 for the PIC12F509.
Search the manual, or if you have to, find some customer support or someone that knows your programmer well. There really has to be a way to get this value. Or it should at least say in plain English, "The programmer doesn't overwrite this area".
FYI: To be 100% truthful and forthcoming, we are easily able to use a 4MHz crystal as the main clock source if you have one, and if we did this, we could entirely ignore the internal calibration value. I intentionally left pins 2 and 3 of the PIC unused for now because they can be used for the crystal oscillator with the correct firmware setting. The problem is we will end up using two more of the chips pins than we really need to, and we also would be using two capacitors from pin 2 and 3 to ground to stabilize the crystal that we wouldn't need otherwise.
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