DIY Toner Transfer Paper (cheap and easy))

[Rolf]

Wax Paper Reviseted..............

This evening I tried some freezer paper, it seems to have some kind of plastic coating on one side only. I got a partial transfer that looks sharper than the ones from the wax paper. Have not completely solved the transfer or the paper removal yet. But it looks promising.
Will try to find some time over the week end to do some more tests.

By the way, the rubbing alcohol I used was 50% alcohol.

For the wax paper to work you have to print on the dull side!
Transfer to PCB as you normally would.
Let the board cool to a temperature where you can hold it, then soak the wax paper with isopropyl rubbing alcohol 91% (not proof!).
The paper should be removable after a few minutes.
This leaves a trace of toner on the paper but I don't think it is a problem; will find out next time I etch a board.

 

[mvs sarma]

For the wax paper to work you have to print on the dull side!
Transfer to PCB as you normally would.
Let the board cool to a temperature where you can hold it, then soak the wax paper with isopropyl rubbing alcohol 91% (not proof!).
The paper should be removable after a few minutes.
This leaves a trace of toner on the paper but I don't think it is a problem; will find out next time I etch a board.

But, Isoproyl will also dissolve carbon powder and might cause problem for the transferred carbon even?

 

[BeeBop]

But, Isoproyl will also dissolve carbon powder and might cause problem for the transferred carbon even?

Ever tried to scrub a miss-printed transfer with alcohol? I remember trying to, and it doesn't seem to have any effect on transferred carbon.

 

[mvs sarma]

Ever tried to scrub a miss-printed transfer with alcohol? I remember trying to, and it doesn't seem to have any effect on transferred carbon.

Ok and thanks
I was wrongly thinking it as Thinner

 

[Hero999]

Toner isn't carbon, it's plastic.

I haven't tried it but all you need to improve the toner transfer process, without buying a proprietary paper, is to add a release agent to the paper before using it. The release agent has to be comparable with the printer, withstand ironing and dissolve in a solvent that doesn't attack the toner (preferably water).

The wax is just acting as a release agent.

The topic of release agents really deserves its own thread.

 

[MrDEB]

What about starch?

mix up a water starch solution (heavy on the starch) then dip the paper into the solution.
allow to completely dry
then try a toner transfer.
maybe add some cornstarch to mix?
OR
use rubbing alcohol instead of water. would dry faster.or a mixture of rubbing alcohol/water??

 

[MrDEB]

The wax paper sounded promising

but the wax will melt w/ heat and is water resistant.
what happened with the parchment paper experiment?

 

[be80be]

What I want to no is how do you get a nice green board and not cover all the pads up
An has any one tried this **broken link removed**

 

[MrDEB]

The green TFF film ?

it only adheres to ink so the board doesn't get green.
after your done etching you clean the board off w/ acetone (works faster than paint thinner)
this laser presentation paper? how well does it work??

 

[Rolf]

but the wax will melt w/ heat and is water resistant.
what happened with the parchment paper experiment?

Evedently there is not much wax on the back side of the paper and the print looks perfect but after transfer they are sightly flattened so you cand use it with fine traces.
The wax is not alcohol resistent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found out that you can not print on parchment paper.

 

[be80be]

Well Here's with Presentation Paper Hero999 before you tell me how bad it is I have only made two
boards in my whole life. It had two pads that didn't take toner fixed them with a marker.

 

[Hero999]

It could've been a lot worse.

It's a very complicated board, I would have never attempted something with such fine detail for my second board.

The toner probably didn't stick because you didn't apply enough pressure to that part of the board.

If I ever see any parts where the toner doesn't stick, I'll clean the board and re-print it unless it's really minor. That's the beauty of using magazine paper, if I mess up the ironing, it doesn't cost me anything. I can re-print until I'm happy with the toner transfer, then etch.

 

[MrDEB]

What is presentation paper??

never heard of it.
what andwhere?
part #'s etc.
I may give it a go.
What the heck are you cleaning your board with?
Its all scratched up.
QUESTION what are you using for etchant?
drill bits?
I found a pretty good source for bits cheap.
also going to purchase some lighter weight boards. presently have several 2oz boards but the last boards I etched were 1 oz boards and they came out better.
Saw over at the new PULSAR site about board weight and undercutting of traces.

 

[mramos1]

Well Here's with Presentation Paper Hero999 before you tell me how bad it is I have only made two
boards in my whole life. It had two pads that didn't take toner fixed them with a marker.

I think you did fine and agree with Hero999, it is a bit complex for just starting.

Did you use magazine paper transfer (like Hero999 mentioned in the past) or buy some presentation paper?

Also, the board is fine, but try something lighter in grit to take the oxide off the board and that will get rid of the scratches. I use steel wool on really bad board and that is a bit rough.

For me, if the board works when done, you did good.

 

[be80be]

Magazine paper is the same thing as Presentation Paper they sell it at office max
it comes off easier then the photo paper.

cleaning your board with

sand paper i clean copper pipe with it 220. I'm going to get some 600 to day
etchant? I don't no what it has in it I got it at radio shack it looks like oil.

 

[3v0]

You have Ferric Chloride. Do not inhale the fumes and it stains everything. Will take the chrome off of plumbing fixtures.

 

[Rolf]

Magazine paper is the same thing as Presentation Paper they sell it at office max
it comes off easier then the photo paper.
sand paper i clean copper pipe with it 220. I'm going to get some 600 to day
etchant? I don't no what it has in it I got it at radio shack it looks like oil.

I have never used anything but a metal polish.
If I used sand paper It would properly be 1200 grit!
Like I have written before, if the copper is shiny it is clean. Run water over it for a last check, make sure the water is not beading.
I use an old stash of Revere Ware copper cleaner but it is unfortunately not available any more. But most any metal or brass/copper cleaner/polish should be able to do the job. Brasso is a name that comes to mind.
In many cases the copper oxide layer is so thin that a plain pencil eraser will take it off, so it seems to me that using sand paper is a gross overkill.

 

[be80be]

Warning do not use in basement. It's hard on you should be on the bottle. And i have ventilation.

 

[3v0]

Warning no not use in basement. It's hard on you should be on the bottle. And i have ventilation.

I told you not to inhale the fumes. It attacks the lungs and you will get what feels like a chest cold.

3v0

 

[be80be]

I told you not to inhale the fumes. It attacks the lungs and you will get what feels like a chest cold.

It's ok I didn't see that till after. Last time i open the garage door to do this. This time i didn't ! But you could get hurt with this stuff if not real careful
that's why I posted.

Warning do not use in basement.