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18f1320 Bare (Bill save me)

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thx Funny NYPD and UTMonkey.

And more thank you for all including but not limited to :

blueroomelectronics
August Treubig
futz

and more....

Hey you know of any chips ( i havent looked yet ) that are similar to the 18F1320 with:

less I/O
8MHz clock (well.. it doesnt have to go as high as 40)

well something good enough to use on this without having too much extra... this saves on production cost :D even tho i wont be making alot and also repair cost if something should happen to the chip.
 
I think the 18F1320 is the smallest 18F PIC. Of course there are tiny 10F, 12F and 14pin 16F PICs.
Your design would fit the very popular 12F629 (it's a 14bit core, but still better than a 12bit core PIC like the 12F508)
Only 4MHz though, should be plenty for IR decoding.
 
If i use the 4mhz i would have to adjust all the delays and that would be a hassle. I dont mind using a 10F,12F,14F or 16F PIC. Um now i guess i have to look around... :D
 
AtomSoft said:
i might just get the PIC16F818 and but i would still order some 1320's. Ok so now im going to make my list :D

hi,
The 818 is a little short on RAM, ROM, I would look at the 16F819.
Watch out for the internal clock setting requirements.

Whats the problem you have with understanding the Charlieplex.?
 
i understand it ok its just that i have a memory issue like i forget things easily so to remember better i use it often. How do i check how much ram and rom i will be using?
 
would this be ok? added 12v to 5v from relay power but before the relay.. Should i add diode.
**broken link removed**


might use:

7805 voltage regulator
Voltage regulator 5V / 250mA. Input voltage up to 29V.
 
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I would avoid the 818/819. The 16F88 is far superior to both, it even has a UART.

Mike.
 
thats the thing i will not need UART. It will be just for the IR. Nothing else. Just to turn something on/off even tho UART sounds cool cuz then i can update it like with new remote codes if. But thats a whole other story. I would have to make it compare code in memory instead of hard coded code. and it would have to be a certain amount of codes so i can make a small loop. dont want to make it take too long to activate switch.

By the way anyone know the part for a 2 terminal block in eagle?

And the above image would the LM317 ot LM7805 be good to use and will it be safe the way it is ? or should i add a diode to the 317?
 
What do you need the chip to do?

If you just want it to do what you indicated earlier in this thread then buy a 12F509.

If you want a flexible chip that will allow you to learn then buy the 16F88.

If you want an old chip that is inferior to the 88 then buy a 16F819.

Your choice.

Mike.
 
The chip isnt the issue right now lol Ill buy 1320s and just add some more features to my design.

I need help with supplying the power to the pic from the 12v supply from the relay. look at the below LM317 would this design be ok or will it need like a diode to protect it or something?

**broken link removed**
 
ok so i wont get no issue stealing the 12v used for the relay right? Cuz im taking the 12v using it for relay and to power board so i should not have any issues right? I say LM317 cuz i can get locally lol :D
 
What's all this arguing about which chip to buy. Just get one of each. They're like (on average) a couple bucks a piece. Unless you're a penniless kid, you can afford a couple extra chips. Gotta hit that minimum order anyway to make it worth paying the shipping. :D
 
yeah i know futz lol i hate to make a order where the shipping is more than the order lol. Ok a new issue. I built the LM317 circuit its ok for the most part but im only getting 11.72mA why is this? The supply is 4A well 3.743A but out of 317 i get .004A when set to A on meter but 12.03mA when set to mA. Any thoughts?
 
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