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235W Solar Panels are too high voltage for GTI, Suggestions?

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  1. #1
    Jules_Theone Jules_Theone is offline

    235W Solar Panels are too high voltage for GTI, Suggestions?

    I've recently moved house, finally got round to tinkering with the solar panels and grid tie inverters today, haven't got all the kit yet but started putting things together to test.

    I have 2x 235W panels, 1x 40W panel and 1x 80W panel, 2x 350W (Chinese) GTIs. Will buy isolation switches, electric meter, circuit breakers etc to do it properly later.

    My problem is that the GTIs are designed for 14V to 28V which worked perfectly for the 80W and 40W panels but I measured the open circuit voltage from the 235W panels and they were putting out around 34V which means the GTIs don't start. It sort of works if I cover part of the panel so the voltage comes down then the GTI loads the panel and it continues to work when I uncover it. I tried connecting the GTI to 2/3 of the panel but that would mean it would not use the whole panel. Also tried putting 6 diodes in series with the panel to bring the voltage down but with little current flowing (40mA) the voltage doesn't actually come down much.

    I had some ideas about putting a small load on the panels to bring the voltage down to 28V but haven't tried it yet and think it would probably be a waste of power, alternatively, I thought to add a voltage clamp sort of thing like a FET and zener diode to trim the voltage and so would stop conducting when the GTI is loading the panel (bringing the voltage down) which seems better than a resistive load. It's gone dark now so I'll experiment again tomorrow, hopefully it'll be sunny... One last thought I had was that it seemed the problem was that the GTI refused to draw (much) current because the voltage was too high so if I can get the GTI to load the panel(s), the OC voltage would drop and it would work. I connected a 235W and 80W panel in parallel and it seemed to work, but that might have been that I connected the 80W THEN the 235W.

    Are any of the above ideas any good or does anyone have better ideas.

    Thanks,

    Jules.

  2. #2
    tcmtech tcmtech is offline
    What does your GTI pull the 235w panels voltage down to when its running?

    If it was me I would just use a zener and a fair sized NPN transistor or similar setup to make a simple voltage limiting shunt of sorts.

    I would suspect that to pull the panels OC voltage down from 34 to 28 may not take all that much actual current.
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    Last edited by tcmtech; 6th May 2012 at 10:11 PM.
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  3. #3
    alec_t alec_t is offline
    I connected a 235W and 80W panel in parallel and it seemed to work
    As the panels have different ouput voltages (34V v <28V) presumably you have some way of preventing reverse current flow through the lower voltage panel?
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    My circuit designs should be regarded as experimental. Although they work in simulation, their component values may need altering or additional components may occasionally be necessary when the circuit is built. Due safety precautions should be taken with any circuit involving mains voltage or electrostatic-sensitive components.
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    Every problem has a solution (given the right information and resources).

  4. Thread Starter #4
    Jules_Theone Jules_Theone is offline
    I think the voltage comes down to 17 - 18V, when I was measuring current (like 5Amps in bright sunshine) it didn't seem very high for such a large panel but my DMM had a flat a battery which I later found affected it's accuracy. I have some high power resistors I was going to try loading the panel with tomorrow to see how much it takes to bring the voltage down. Obviously that isn't the ideal long term solution, just to see how big the transistor needs to be. Typically the panels came from left over from a 340kW solar array and so not exactly made for home use. Ideally I want to add panels as I go along, I'm guessing there isn't an issue with connecting different power rated panels in parallel as each has a diode in series with them. The only thing I can think of is the MPP for diff size panels is different.

    Another question I wanted to ask was i know I can connect pretty much as many GTIs onto the same mains supply but is there any issues with connecting them on the DC side too, 235+235+80+40W panels connected in parallel to 350+350W GTIs with DC inputs and AC outputs joined together?

    Alec_t, all the panels have blocking diodes in series so no issues with reverse current etc.

    Thanks,

    Jules.
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    Last edited by Jules_Theone; 6th May 2012 at 10:40 PM.

  5. #5
    tcmtech tcmtech is offline
    At 34 volts OC I would take a guess that they may be rated to produce around 9 - 10 amps at 24 VDC. If your GTI needs to see 28 volts or less the panel may only need a amp or two of load to keep it at 28 VDC so from there you may only need to dissipate around 60 watts of power which is not much for a common TO-220 or larger sized transistor to handle.

    The thing is if your GTI's are pulling the panels down below 28 volts when running the voltage limiter wont be getting used at all.
    Also if the system is hooked up all the time I would assume that every morning as the sun comes up the GTI would be coming on automatically while the panel voltage was well below 28 volts keeping the voltage down anyway.

    Thats my take on this so far.

    How about som pics for us?
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    "Only someone with something to hide has reason to fear open and honest communication."
    The scariest thing about where I work is that I am the good employee!

  6. Thread Starter #6
    Jules_Theone Jules_Theone is offline
    I agree, the voltage limiter would hardly ever be used. I can imagine if the inverter restarts or the mains goes down it would release the DC to rise and get stuck again. I did some more experimenting today, while it wasn't raining and found that with just the 80W panel connected it drew 5-6Amps. With the 235W connected after, the current only came up to 7-8Amps. I think that the 80W panel isn't really working very hard once the 235W is connected. I haven't got enough DMMs yet to measure every parameter and annoyingly my meters can only measure up to 10Amps. I haven't found the box of high power resistors yet so made a current shunt with some copper wire to be able to measure higher currents than 10A. Seems to work, see pics. I'm going to build a triangle mounting to make the panels face into the sun better. And make up a board with all the GTIs, switches, elec meter etc on.

    It might be better to have the larger panels separate from the smaller ones.

    I've got a pretty new electric meter (Landis Gyr E110 Type 5235A) which appears to be the basic model which isn't capable of measuring power flow in both directions. It has a pulsing red LED which blinks for every watt-hour I use and goes to solid red when I try to feed back onto the grid - I think that means it won't run backwards when I produce more power than I use. Annoyingly it doesn't have tenths of kWh so I can't easily see it running backwards. I've bought an electric meter to put on the same board as the GTIs. I think if I switch everything off and measure 1kWh from the solar panels with my bought elec meter and compare it with if the E110 meter registers a decrease. I also plan to have a PIC circuit to log DC power / AC power generated from the array.

    Jules.
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    Last edited by Jules_Theone; 7th May 2012 at 07:03 PM.

  7. #7
    debe debe is offline
    With electric supply meters be carefull. Here in Australia a rotating disc type meter will run & register in reverse with a Grid tie inverter. But a plain Digital type will continue to register & will charge you for energy you export. With a grid tie system you need an Import/Export meter.
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  8. #8
    strantor strantor is offline
    Maybe you could setup a little comparator with a 28V reference and a time delay; if the panel output is >28V, a mosfet shunts the panel with some low resistance load for a bit, to give the inverter time enough to come on.
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  9. Thread Starter #9
    Jules_Theone Jules_Theone is offline
    For those interested in a picture... Attached is the board I made up for the solar grid tie at my parents house before I moved out. The array was only 145W of various panels but it could charge lead acid batteries or connect to the grid (manually switched). It had a standalone inverter for when there's a power outage, but typically it never happened.

    Yesterday I phoned up the feed-in tariff people to ask about connecting to the grid, getting the meter changed or what equipment I needed (not really the right people to ask about technicals) and got some general information. It seems like a lot of bureaucracy if the system is less than 1kW (initially) and if I wanted to add to the system later I would have to get it re-certified. I want the freedom to experiment with the system and that means that I probably can't get paid the feed-in tariff.

    Also the guy suggested that effectively if I don't use the power I generate locally in the day and it feeds the grid, that it will disappear, thats not how I understand it - I can generate say 10kWh in the day when it's sunny but only use 5kWh locally, meaning that 5kWh will go onto the grid and power someone else's house. Then when it gets dark and I stop generating, I continue to use 5kWh overnight, overall I have used no electricity from the grid. I believe with my current setup (with the digital consumer meter) the meter won't run backwards and if I don't use it locally I will lose it.

    Apparently I can get paid 9p for every kWh I generate if my house is rated E-G on a EPC certificate but 21p per kWh if my house is A-D, basically if my house is energy efficient I can get paid more.
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  10. #10
    debe debe is offline
    This is the import / export meter the power company installed its an ltron & they are made in England. They come in mode1 import only meter doesnt register during rev energy flow. Mode2 Uni-direction & records the sum of the energy flow, inport & export kwh in one register. Mode3 Bi direction, the meter records import & reverse energy flow in seperate registers, labeled import (3) export (9).
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