BoostC Charlieplexed PWM 32 - Page 4 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

futz · 28th June 2008, 10:44 PM

Replace this part of main() with this new version. Should work better on side by side displays:

Code:

	reset();
	trail[0]=10;trail[1]=8;trail[2]=5;trail[3]=2;trail[4]=1;
	while(1){
		for(x=0;x<10;x++){
			reset();
			led[x]=31;
			led[(x-9)+19]=31;
			for(y=0;y<5;y++){
				if((x-(y+1))>-1)
					led[x-(y+1)]=trail[y];
				if(((x-9)+19)-(y+1)>9)
					led[((x-9)+19)-(y+1)]=trail[y];
			}
			delay_ms(30);
		}
		for(x=9;x>0;x--){
			reset();
			led[x]=31;
			led[(x-9)+19]=31;
			for(y=0;y<5;y++){
				if((x+(y+1))<10)
					led[x+(y+1)]=trail[y];
				if(((x-9)+19)+(y+1)<20)
					led[((x-9)+19)+(y+1)]=trail[y];
			}
			delay_ms(30);
		}
	}

futz · 29th June 2008, 01:47 AM

Here's my version of the schematic. If you want to use GP3 as an input and still be able to use ICSP then you'll have to add a third switch (or some other means of isolation) to switch between VPP use and input use.

BoostC Charlieplexed PWM 32-12f683_leds.png

mvs sarma · 29th June 2008, 03:55 AM

Whether the connections to R6 and R7 be changed to after the programming switch? It would help in-situ programming, not to have load on the chip pins. The schematic after suggested mod is attached.
By the way I saw another youtube video . i felt it excellent. and link is here

YouTube - 12F683 Bluebox

futz · 29th June 2008, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvs sarma

Whether the connections to R6 and R7 be changed to after the programming switch? It would help in-situ programming, not to have load on the chip pins. The schematic after suggested mod is attached.

Yes, I thought of that. Already had it wired the other way though, and didn't feel like changing it. Anyway, it works perfect as is, without that change. I'm lazily soldering one together. Guess I'll make that change on the soldered one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvs sarma

By the way I saw another u-tube video . i felt it excellent. and link is here

YouTube - 12F683 Bluebox

Ya, I watched that. Nice project.

futz · 29th June 2008, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvs sarma

Whether the connections to R6 and R7 be changed to after the programming switch? It would help in-situ programming, not to have load on the chip pins.

Here it is, Mr. Sarma.

Added the third switch as well, so that one last input pin can be used.

mvs sarma · 29th June 2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futz

Here it is, Mr. Sarma.

Added the third switch as well, so that one last input pin can be used.
Attachment 20072

Nice Futz, ultimate as all pins are now free for use. Great job.

On the trailing lamps project, please imagine the lamps physically mounted in a curve shape and let the trail display . , hope it would simulate a snake motion. ofcourse we may have to mask the board by say a green foil or perspex.

Mike, K8LH · 29th June 2008, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futz

Replace this part of main() with this new version. Should work better on side by side displays:

Code:

    reset();
    trail[0]=10;trail[1]=8;trail[2]=5;trail[3]=2;trail[4]=1;
    while(1){
        for(x=0;x<10;x++){
            reset();
            led[x]=31;
            led[(x-9)+19]=31;
            for(y=0;y<5;y++){
                if((x-(y+1))>-1)
                    led[x-(y+1)]=trail[y];
                if(((x-9)+19)-(y+1)>9)
                    led[((x-9)+19)-(y+1)]=trail[y];
            }
            delay_ms(30);
        }
        for(x=9;x>0;x--){
            reset();
            led[x]=31;
            led[(x-9)+19]=31;
            for(y=0;y<5;y++){
                if((x+(y+1))<10)
                    led[x+(y+1)]=trail[y];
                if(((x-9)+19)+(y+1)<20)
                    led[((x-9)+19)+(y+1)]=trail[y];
            }
            delay_ms(30);
        }
    }

Futz,

You've come up with a couple extremely nice "Cylon Eye" examples. Thank you.

I tried to come up with my own version late last night and I'm still stuck. It's much harder than I thought it would be when I casually suggested someone "throw something together" (grin).

Mike

futz · 30th June 2008, 12:13 AM

Mike. I have one little question. How are your LEDs laid out?
00-19
01-18
02-17
03-16
04-15
05-14
06-13
07-12
08-11
09-10

or

00-10
01-11
02-12
03-13
04-14
05-15
06-16
07-17
08-18
09-19

I lean toward the first layout.

Mike, K8LH · 30th June 2008, 12:39 AM

That board was originally a Serial LED Bar/Dot Controller so led 00 is bottom left, 09 is top left, 10 is bottom right, and 19 is top right.

BTW, I completely understand both of your Cylon Eye examples. I was just trying to see if I could come up with something as good or better. Talk about a humbling experience (grin)...

Gayan Soyza · 30th June 2008, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike, K8LH

Hi Gayan,

I'm not sure what you mean by "hack my design".

Attached is picture of bottom of board. It contains one surface mount PNP row driver transistor on GP0 (an experiment to increase peak current from 20 ma to around 50 ma).

Mike

Thanks for that Mike.Because I like to know what methods other guys use when they are soldering..........

ahhhhhhhhhhh
This guy has made a UV meter from PIC16F628.Unfortunately I couldn't find any schematic from it.

It also has a fade trail.

YouTube - PIC16F628 64 led bar

futz · 30th June 2008, 07:17 AM

I finished my permanent Mike-K8LH blinky thing. Works fine and now I can have my breadboard back.

Here's a couple pics:

mvs sarma · 30th June 2008, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futz

I finished my permanent Mike-K8LH blinky thing. Works fine and now I can have my breadboard back.

Here's a couple pics:

Oh! what an wiring effort Futz... looks Good and thanks for the photos.

Mike, K8LH · 30th June 2008, 11:23 AM

Futz,

Your board looks excellent...

Those PCB mounted slide switches look great. May I ask about Manufacturer, Part Number, Source, please?

You probably could have done away with the switch on GP3. I just added a push button "mode" switch onto my board at GP3 with a pull-up resistor. You can also potentially use GP3 for bit-banged serial receive.

Mike

futz · 30th June 2008, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike, K8LH

Those PCB mounted slide switches look great. May I ask about Manufacturer, Part Number, Source, please?

They are Digikey part# EG1903-ND. That's a Canadian link. For US link, click here.

Those switches work great on breadboards too.

Quote:

You probably could have done away with the switch on GP3. I just added a push button "mode" switch onto my board at GP3 with a pull-up resistor. You can also potentially use GP3 for bit-banged serial receive.

True. Could rig a single tact switch to control all three lines. Just hold down to program.

Mike, K8LH · 30th June 2008, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futz

Could rig a single tact switch to control all three lines. Just hold down to program.

I don't understand.

You wouldn't need a slide switch at all for GP3 because that would be connected to a normally open push button switch.

How would you connect a single push button switch to disconnect GP0/ICSPDAT and GP1/ICSPCLK from the LED circuitry when you push it and hold it down?

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29th June 2008, 01:47 AM	#47
futz	Here's my version of the schematic. If you want to use GP3 as an input and still be able to use ICSP then you'll have to add a third switch (or some other means of isolation) to switch between VPP use and input use. __________________ ========================= Futz's Microcontrollers & Robotics =========================

29th June 2008, 03:55 AM	#48
mvs sarma	Whether the connections to R6 and R7 be changed to after the programming switch? It would help in-situ programming, not to have load on the chip pins. The schematic after suggested mod is attached. By the way I saw another youtube video . i felt it excellent. and link is here YouTube - 12F683 Bluebox Attached Thumbnails __________________ Regards, Sarma. Last edited by mvs sarma; 29th June 2008 at 04:08 AM.

30th June 2008, 12:13 AM	#53
futz	Mike. I have one little question. How are your LEDs laid out? 00-19 01-18 02-17 03-16 04-15 05-14 06-13 07-12 08-11 09-10 or 00-10 01-11 02-12 03-13 04-14 05-15 06-16 07-17 08-18 09-19 I lean toward the first layout. __________________ ========================= Futz's Microcontrollers & Robotics =========================

30th June 2008, 12:39 AM	#54
Mike, K8LH	That board was originally a Serial LED Bar/Dot Controller so led 00 is bottom left, 09 is top left, 10 is bottom right, and 19 is top right. BTW, I completely understand both of your Cylon Eye examples. I was just trying to see if I could come up with something as good or better. Talk about a humbling experience (grin)... Last edited by Mike, K8LH; 30th June 2008 at 12:43 AM.

30th June 2008, 07:17 AM	#56
futz	I finished my permanent Mike-K8LH blinky thing. Works fine and now I can have my breadboard back. Here's a couple pics: __________________ ========================= Futz's Microcontrollers & Robotics =========================

30th June 2008, 11:23 AM	#58
Mike, K8LH	Futz, Your board looks excellent... Those PCB mounted slide switches look great. May I ask about Manufacturer, Part Number, Source, please? You probably could have done away with the switch on GP3. I just added a push button "mode" switch onto my board at GP3 with a pull-up resistor. You can also potentially use GP3 for bit-banged serial receive. Mike Last edited by Mike, K8LH; 30th June 2008 at 11:38 AM.