Junebug Assembly Tips - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

**Krumlink** · 6th November 2007, 02:55 AM

For anybody almost done with their Junebug programmer or about to get one, I have a few important pointers for you. PS Bill: Check over your Assembly manual

The attached images are ones that I think that you may be confused with. One that You may overlook is R11 and R12, they go under the 18F2550 and are 100 ohm resistors.

R7 is a 100k resistor

Watch the MOSFET Pin out

The 2N3904 is substitutable with a 2N2222A
The 2N3906 is substitutable with a 2N2907A

I will keep this updated as I go. Also, watch how you put in those switches!

blueroomelectronics · 6th November 2007, 03:00 AM

Very nice, and yes those transistors will work. The tricky ones are the FETs but both are optional (they allow VPP before VDD programming and shorted target VDD testing)
I'm working on the manual a wee bit everyday.
I don't think the switches will fit in the wrong way, they're rectangular.
The ferrite bead is recommended but you can use a wire link if you don't have one.
And you can stand little 1/8 watt resistors where the SIPs go.

**Krumlink** · 6th November 2007, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics

you can stand little 1/8 watt resistors where the SIPs go.

OR, you could stand up some 1/4 watts like I am going to.

blueroomelectronics · 6th November 2007, 03:56 AM

Sure why not, just a little more cramped.

**Krumlink** · 6th November 2007, 03:59 AM

I am going to get the rest of the parts very soon, I really would like to use this, as well as my inchworm+. That one C class will love a couple of these

The next idea for a kit should be some kind of robot kit programmer, besides your mongoose. Is that even available yet?

blueroomelectronics · 6th November 2007, 04:31 AM

Next kit will be either an Ethernet I/O controller or an RS485 thermostat.

What do you mean by Robot kit programmer? Example?

**Krumlink** · 6th November 2007, 04:44 AM

My Breakout board, that I was thinking of. Its under robotics. Maybe you or 3v0 could help me set up one that uses a 16F88. It would be really cool (further down the road, but still applicable).

**Krumlink** · 7th November 2007, 01:43 AM

As a substitute for a ferrite bead, you can also run a wire through a small toroid, which is what I did.

**3v0** · 7th November 2007, 02:45 AM

I am building the JuneBug in 3 steps.
1. Get the programmer's processor working/talking/USB-connected (done)
2. Add the analog parts (transistors etc) to finish the programmer
3. The tutor.

I built the processor section (1) of the JuneBug programmer and have it working. Had a bit of difficulty with the unrecognized USB device error. It worked after I changed C6 to a .22uf ceramic cap. The cap that did not work was Mylar. Could have been a defective part. .22uF is within the range that Bill indicated.

The USB software driver is a non issue with the PK2. It uses standard XP supplied drivers.

You need to program the PIC18F2550 processor with another programmer such as the inchworm. The procedure can be done on a protoboard with the inchworm connected to the 18F2550. You do not need a crystal but it is a good idea to use a .1uF bypass cap between pwr and gnd.

Download the ziped hex file PICkit 2 Firmware V2.10. (if you are reading this much later then NOV 07 check for an updated version here).

Unzip the file and place the file PK2V021000.hex in a location that you can easily find. ie: C:\abc\PK2V021000.hex

Start MPLAB. You will not be using a project.

Configure>Select_Device> PIC18F2550

File>Import ... then browse to C:\abc\PK2V021000.hex and click on it.

You do not need to set the fuse/configuration setting because they are included in the hex file.

Programmer>Select_Programmer>MPLAB_ICD2

Programmer>Connect

Programmer>Program

That should do it. If anyone sees an error in this I will be glad to edit this post.

Good luck.

blueroomelectronics · 7th November 2007, 03:04 AM

CUSB 220nf is the minimum recommend PIC18F2550 datasheet pg 376.

Glad you got the boards.

Here's the Junebug "Hello World"

Code:

 ;*** WDT reset toggles RA7 
   list     p=18F1320
   include <p18F1320.inc>
   CONFIG   OSC=INTIO2, LVP=OFF, DEBUG = ON
   CONFIG   WDT=ON, WDTPS=128
   org      0
   movlw    b'00111111'
   movwf    TRISA
   btg      LATA, 7
   sleep
   end

**3v0** · 7th November 2007, 03:34 AM

I forgot to thank you for them...

geko · 7th November 2007, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Download the ziped hex file PICkit 2 Firmware V2.10. (if you are reading this much later then NOV 07 check for an updated version here).

In MPLAB 8.00 under %install_dir%\Microchip\MPLAB IDE\PICkit 2\ the latest version of firmware is PK2V022000.hex, PK2V021000.hex is also in there.

Interestingly in the PK2 section of the MPLAB 8.00 release notes it doesn't mention V2.2 but it is there.

**Krumlink** · 7th November 2007, 08:37 PM

Bill, make sure you have the SIP resistor networks right, 3v0 and I just had trouble tracing a trace

It looks like the Entire R2A-E might need to be re-checked on your schematic. Make sure it is right.

blueroomelectronics · 7th November 2007, 08:40 PM

Which trace? R19C which is labeled wrong in the instructions (fixing it I am)

**Krumlink** · 7th November 2007, 08:48 PM

R2A (100 ohm, located directly above VR2 and D3 is left of it).

6th November 2007, 03:00 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics Experienced Member Blog Entries: 4	Very nice, and yes those transistors will work. The tricky ones are the FETs but both are optional (they allow VPP before VDD programming and shorted target VDD testing) I'm working on the manual a wee bit everyday. I don't think the switches will fit in the wrong way, they're rectangular. The ferrite bead is recommended but you can use a wire link if you don't have one. And you can stand little 1/8 watt resistors where the SIPs go. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 6th November 2007 at 03:05 AM.

6th November 2007, 03:56 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics Experienced Member Blog Entries: 4	Sure why not, just a little more cramped. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

6th November 2007, 03:59 AM	(permalink)
Krumlink Moderator Blog Entries: 1	I am going to get the rest of the parts very soon, I really would like to use this, as well as my inchworm+. That one C class will love a couple of these The next idea for a kit should be some kind of robot kit programmer, besides your mongoose. Is that even available yet? __________________ MechTronics

6th November 2007, 04:31 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics Experienced Member Blog Entries: 4	Next kit will be either an Ethernet I/O controller or an RS485 thermostat. What do you mean by Robot kit programmer? Example? __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

6th November 2007, 04:44 AM	(permalink)
Krumlink Moderator Blog Entries: 1	My Breakout board, that I was thinking of. Its under robotics. Maybe you or 3v0 could help me set up one that uses a 16F88. It would be really cool (further down the road, but still applicable). __________________ MechTronics

7th November 2007, 01:43 AM	(permalink)
Krumlink Moderator Blog Entries: 1	As a substitute for a ferrite bead, you can also run a wire through a small toroid, which is what I did. __________________ MechTronics

7th November 2007, 02:45 AM	(permalink)
3v0 Moderator Blog Entries: 3	I am building the JuneBug in 3 steps. 1. Get the programmer's processor working/talking/USB-connected (done) 2. Add the analog parts (transistors etc) to finish the programmer 3. The tutor. I built the processor section (1) of the JuneBug programmer and have it working. Had a bit of difficulty with the unrecognized USB device error. It worked after I changed C6 to a .22uf ceramic cap. The cap that did not work was Mylar. Could have been a defective part. .22uF is within the range that Bill indicated. The USB software driver is a non issue with the PK2. It uses standard XP supplied drivers. You need to program the PIC18F2550 processor with another programmer such as the inchworm. The procedure can be done on a protoboard with the inchworm connected to the 18F2550. You do not need a crystal but it is a good idea to use a .1uF bypass cap between pwr and gnd. Download the ziped hex file PICkit 2 Firmware V2.10. (if you are reading this much later then NOV 07 check for an updated version here). Unzip the file and place the file PK2V021000.hex in a location that you can easily find. ie: C:\abc\PK2V021000.hex Start MPLAB. You will not be using a project. Configure>Select_Device> PIC18F2550 File>Import ... then browse to C:\abc\PK2V021000.hex and click on it. You do not need to set the fuse/configuration setting because they are included in the hex file. Programmer>Select_Programmer>MPLAB_ICD2 Programmer>Connect Programmer>Program That should do it. If anyone sees an error in this I will be glad to edit this post. Good luck. Last edited by 3v0; 7th November 2007 at 02:48 AM.

7th November 2007, 03:04 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics Experienced Member Blog Entries: 4	CUSB 220nf is the minimum recommend PIC18F2550 datasheet pg 376. Glad you got the boards. Here's the Junebug "Hello World" Code: ;*** WDT reset toggles RA7 list p=18F1320 include <p18F1320.inc> CONFIG OSC=INTIO2, LVP=OFF, DEBUG = ON CONFIG WDT=ON, WDTPS=128 org 0 movlw b'00111111' movwf TRISA btg LATA, 7 sleep end __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 7th November 2007 at 09:38 PM.

7th November 2007, 03:34 AM	(permalink)
3v0 Moderator Blog Entries: 3	I forgot to thank you for them...

7th November 2007, 08:37 PM	(permalink)
Krumlink Moderator Blog Entries: 1	Bill, make sure you have the SIP resistor networks right, 3v0 and I just had trouble tracing a trace It looks like the Entire R2A-E might need to be re-checked on your schematic. Make sure it is right. __________________ MechTronics Last edited by Krumlink; 7th November 2007 at 08:39 PM.

7th November 2007, 08:40 PM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics Experienced Member Blog Entries: 4	Which trace? R19C which is labeled wrong in the instructions (fixing it I am) __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

7th November 2007, 08:48 PM	(permalink)
Krumlink Moderator Blog Entries: 1	R2A (100 ohm, located directly above VR2 and D3 is left of it). __________________ MechTronics

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