Junebug Assembly Tips - Page 7 - Electronic Circuits Projects Diagrams Free

kchriste · 17th November 2007, 03:08 AM

Quote:

I am using U2 (6 pin DIP as a Switch because of its template

Shouldn't the 3 switches in U2 be wired to 3 separate IO pins?

8 pin DIP switches (4 switches) are more common also.

**Krumlink** · 17th November 2007, 03:10 AM

Nope, I want them to be bussed together, just because I said, so ok?

Oh wait, you got a problem with that buddy? Come on bring it on! Lets go!

I found that 3 DIP Switches are cheaper than a 4 dip switch. It will still look good.

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 03:30 AM

If you want bussed switches then a DP3T switch will do, more expensive than a dip though but nice for switching the MCLR stuff / project stuff. Cheaper yet would be a far more common DPDT switch on just RB6, RB7. Avoid using MLCR for anything but a reset / ICD connection, if you're desperate for that extra I/O line then use a larger PIC.

PS I've updated the Junebug Assembly Instructions on my site, some troubleshooting tips and corrected schematic & BOM plus the blinky LED program.

Keep working with your programming Krumlink, you'll get the hang of it soon enough and then you can transplant a computerized brain into one of your robots.

**Krumlink** · 17th November 2007, 03:38 AM

I am using the mclr pin as a reset, by shorting it to ground. It should be here by next week. Bill if you want these boards for something, PM me and we can set up a deal

I will let you know how this one works.

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 04:13 AM

Well I was working on a side project that has a small breadboard, a 40pin PIC (a few choices), 20MHz crystal (deselectable), USB optional, keypad / LCD using up ports D & E

futz · 17th November 2007, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics

PS I've updated the Junebug Assembly Instructions on my site, some troubleshooting tips and corrected schematic & BOM plus the blinky LED program.

Hey Bill. I had to laugh when I looked at the new pdf title on the first page. There is no such word as "labratory"!

The word you're looking for is "laboratory".
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/laboratory

You spelled it right just below the first picture, in the Introduction.

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 04:32 AM

Opps LOL. I'm still scratching my head on the introduction...

Looking at Krumlinks code makes me want to learn C18. Can you combine #pragma statements?

kchriste · 17th November 2007, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krumlink

Nope, I want them to be bussed together, just because I said, so ok?Oh wait, you got a problem with that buddy? Come on bring it on! Lets go!

I'd just hate to see the little switches lost without a trace.

All bussed together like that. Without individual freedom. It's... It's just so ..... UnAmerican.... Your ARE American right?

Quote:

Looking at Krumlinks code makes me want to learn C18. Can you combine #pragma statements?

Yes, I've also been "inspired by Krumlink" and yes, you can combine them in a way:
#pragma config WDT = OFF, OSC = INTIO67, LVP = OFF

**Krumlink** · 17th November 2007, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kchriste

I'd just hate to see the little switches lost without a trace.

All bussed together like that. Without individual freedom. It's... It's just so ..... UnAmerican.... Your ARE American right?

Yes, I've also been "inspired by Krumlink" and yes, you can combine them in a way:
#pragma config WDT = OFF, OSC = INTIO67, LVP = OFF

My Junebug is a dictatorship, so it has no freedom!

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 05:06 AM

I just noticed you're using a three position switch for reset.

IMHO just don't add one, the Junebug / Inchworm can both control MCLR. And for standalone; the PIC will reset on powerup.
If you're worried about lockup then learn about the WDT.

Edit here's a simple single sided PCB layout, try to avoid right-angles on traces if you can and lay it out on a grid. This grid is 0.5"

Mike, K8LH · 17th November 2007, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics

Well I was working on a side project that has a small breadboard, a 40pin PIC (a few choices), 20MHz crystal (deselectable), USB optional, keypad / LCD using up ports D & E

What type of LCD? 4 or 8 pin interface? What type of keypad? If it would help I could show you how I use 12 pins for a 44780 type LCD using the 4 pin interface mode, PWM contrast control, 16 key keypad, and piezo speaker for switch press beep.

Mike

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 01:42 PM

It was 4 bit, the trick was to only use port D & E (11bits) for both a 4x4 keypad & an LCD. 7 for the LCD + 4 for the keypad (using 4bits from the LCD too)
Of course I'd like to see your design Mike, that's a lot of stuff for only 12pins.

Mike, K8LH · 17th November 2007, 02:06 PM

Bill,

Forgive me. I thought you were using up 16 pins but if you're doin' all that with 11 pins then there's no new tricks I can share -- you're already a 'Master'... I'll attach the diagram anyway for anyone who'd care to take a look.

Regards, Mike

blueroomelectronics · 17th November 2007, 03:12 PM

The RS pin as an input is pretty neat

and you Mike are the master of streching I/O.

I did have the LCD RW pin supported, I could put a jumper for a buzzer there...

Edit: would a 4x4 keypad or a 3x4 with 4 LEDs be more interesting?

Edit2: The Junebug / PK2 have a very handy UART mode... So goodbye serial port, it will have a USB connector.

Something along these lines.

**3v0** · 19th November 2007, 01:19 AM

I have given up on Octoparts for making a parts list. You can find the current list in spread sheet form at http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...iD6BR8Q3aL5jVQ Parts numbers are shown for Digikey, Mouser, Newark, and a few from Jameco. We could expand that if anyone has about 50% or more of the numbers for another vendor. I understand that what I have is mostly US based suppliers. You can help change that if you are up to it. Still looking for numbers for FB1, VR1, and VR2.

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17th November 2007, 03:10 AM	(permalink)
Krumlink	Nope, I want them to be bussed together, just because I said, so ok? Oh wait, you got a problem with that buddy? Come on bring it on! Lets go! I found that 3 DIP Switches are cheaper than a 4 dip switch. It will still look good. __________________ MechTronics World of Warcraft is a disease

17th November 2007, 03:30 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	If you want bussed switches then a DP3T switch will do, more expensive than a dip though but nice for switching the MCLR stuff / project stuff. Cheaper yet would be a far more common DPDT switch on just RB6, RB7. Avoid using MLCR for anything but a reset / ICD connection, if you're desperate for that extra I/O line then use a larger PIC. PS I've updated the Junebug Assembly Instructions on my site, some troubleshooting tips and corrected schematic & BOM plus the blinky LED program. Keep working with your programming Krumlink, you'll get the hang of it soon enough and then you can transplant a computerized brain into one of your robots. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

17th November 2007, 03:38 AM	(permalink)
Krumlink	I am using the mclr pin as a reset, by shorting it to ground. It should be here by next week. Bill if you want these boards for something, PM me and we can set up a deal I will let you know how this one works. __________________ MechTronics World of Warcraft is a disease

17th November 2007, 04:13 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	Well I was working on a side project that has a small breadboard, a 40pin PIC (a few choices), 20MHz crystal (deselectable), USB optional, keypad / LCD using up ports D & E __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

17th November 2007, 04:32 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	Opps LOL. I'm still scratching my head on the introduction... Looking at Krumlinks code makes me want to learn C18. Can you combine #pragma statements? __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 17th November 2007 at 04:38 AM.

17th November 2007, 05:06 AM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	I just noticed you're using a three position switch for reset. IMHO just don't add one, the Junebug / Inchworm can both control MCLR. And for standalone; the PIC will reset on powerup. If you're worried about lockup then learn about the WDT. Edit here's a simple single sided PCB layout, try to avoid right-angles on traces if you can and lay it out on a grid. This grid is 0.5" __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 17th November 2007 at 05:29 AM.

17th November 2007, 01:42 PM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	It was 4 bit, the trick was to only use port D & E (11bits) for both a 4x4 keypad & an LCD. 7 for the LCD + 4 for the keypad (using 4bits from the LCD too) Of course I'd like to see your design Mike, that's a lot of stuff for only 12pins. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com

17th November 2007, 03:12 PM	(permalink)
blueroomelectronics	The RS pin as an input is pretty neat and you Mike are the master of streching I/O. I did have the LCD RW pin supported, I could put a jumper for a buzzer there... Edit: would a 4x4 keypad or a 3x4 with 4 LEDs be more interesting? Edit2: The Junebug / PK2 have a very handy UART mode... So goodbye serial port, it will have a USB connector. Something along these lines. __________________ Bill Smart Kits build Smart People http://www.blueroomelectronics.com Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 17th November 2007 at 03:21 PM.

19th November 2007, 01:19 AM	(permalink)
3v0	Updated JuneBug Parts List I have given up on Octoparts for making a parts list. You can find the current list in spread sheet form at http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...iD6BR8Q3aL5jVQ Parts numbers are shown for Digikey, Mouser, Newark, and a few from Jameco. We could expand that if anyone has about 50% or more of the numbers for another vendor. I understand that what I have is mostly US based suppliers. You can help change that if you are up to it. Still looking for numbers for FB1, VR1, and VR2.