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Old 7th November 2007, 09:10 PM   (permalink)
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R2A is the 100ohm SIP, it goes to the USB 5V line and IR1 pin 3 and C7

It's a typical design for most IR demodulators. I'll post simple testing code for it ASAP. Most designs call for 47uf, I've seen some as low as 4.7uf. I've used 4.7uf thru 47uf and they all work fine.

The TSOP34838 (38KHz) has the opposite pinout to a TSOP1138, make sure you check the datasheet if you substitute.

Here's a link to the datasheet http://www.vishay.com/docs/82202/tsop348x.pdf

Notice it has a 30K pullup in the chip.

Typical design shown below.
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Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 7th November 2007 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 7th November 2007, 09:58 PM   (permalink)
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And here's the IR test code
Code:
;*** Simple IR Test (SW6-IR) on
         list     p=18F1320
         include <p18F1320.inc>
         CONFIG   OSC=INTIO2, LVP=OFF, DEBUG = ON, WDT=ON, WDTPS=128
         org      0
         bsf      ADCON1, PCFG4     ; RB0 digital
         clrf     LATA              ; clear port A
         movlw    b'00111111'
         movwf    TRISA
loop     bcf      LATA, 7
         btfss    PORTB, 0
         bsf      LATA, 7 
         bra      loop
         end
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Old 7th November 2007, 10:19 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krumlink
R2A (100 ohm, located directly above VR2 and D3 is left of it).
What specifically is wrong with it? I just checked R2A and, apart from it still being labeled as R20a on the schematic it goes where it should.

R3A and R3E are labled as R2A and R2E on the PK2SE section of the schematic so R2A/E appear twice. I already pointed that out to Bill.
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Old 7th November 2007, 10:28 PM   (permalink)
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Got by me R20A, I'll post a fixed schematic soon.
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Old 7th November 2007, 10:44 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Got by me R20A, I'll post a fixed schematic soon.
On the schematic, 3v0 said that the R3A-E Resistors was mixed up with R2A-E.
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Old 7th November 2007, 11:48 PM   (permalink)
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Do you know the part # for the USB Port from MOUSER?

I am going to order from Mouser this time. I really like their website.
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Old 8th November 2007, 01:33 AM   (permalink)
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Digikey part number for the USB-B RA connector is WM17131-ND
Or the giggle giggle Assmann version AE9925-ND
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Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 8th November 2007 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 8th November 2007, 01:46 AM   (permalink)
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Watch out for Mousers shipping and handling charges.
Mouser 737-USB-B-S-RA
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Old 8th November 2007, 01:59 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Watch out for Mousers shipping and handling charges.
What is that about?
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Old 8th November 2007, 02:14 AM   (permalink)
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I ordered from mouser once, had to pay $35 in duties and broker fees. Digikey no problem. Might not apply to US orders.
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Old 8th November 2007, 06:13 AM   (permalink)
3v0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
I ordered from mouser once, had to pay $35 in duties and broker fees. Digikey no problem. Might not apply to US orders.
It does not apply to the US.

If Krumlink can chill out for a bit I wil provide a full list of part numbers (as best I can). Should have time to work on that this weekend.
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Old 8th November 2007, 06:36 AM   (permalink)
3v0
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Krumlink was in the process or replacing the SIPs with single resistors and had used a 330R instead of a 100R. I do not recall which resistor that was. I suggested he pull it and replace it with a 100R which he should buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krumlink
On the schematic, 3v0 said that the R3A-E Resistors was mixed up with R2A-E.
When Krumlink and I spoke I was looking at R2A that comes from AN1 on the processor and is used to monitor target power on CON2 3&4. The schematic I am looking at shows R2A as 4.7K.

The BOM for the SIPs shows
R1 10K x 5 SIP 10pin 5 independent resistors
R2 100 x 5 SIP 10pin 5 independent resistors
R3 4.7K x 5 SIP 10pin 5 independent resistors

Howver I would like to have looked at it much more closely prior to saying anything in public. Made sure I was looking at the latest version of the schematic etc.. Sorry.
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Old 8th November 2007, 08:16 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueroomelectronics
Typical design shown below.
Hello, a picture from one of my websites!
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Old 8th November 2007, 01:26 PM   (permalink)
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Thanks all of you for the part number fixes, I guess I need a holiday

And feel free to say in public, it'll get fixed and it's better to fix it while I'm working on the manual.
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Old 10th November 2007, 06:55 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3v0
I built the processor section (1) of the JuneBug programmer and have it working.

You need to program the PIC18F2550 processor with another programmer such as the inchworm. The procedure can be done on a protoboard with the inchworm connected to the 18F2550. You do not need a crystal but it is a good idea to use a .1uF bypass cap between pwr and gnd.

Good luck.
I assembled mine tonight and, thanks to your post, didn't need to spend hours figuring out what to do to make it work. Works perfectly as a programmer, first try.

Now I have to finish up the tutor section. Still have a few missing parts there.

I ordered trimpots, but the ones I got are too small. I may just bend the leads to fit... And the reset switches are discontinued. I'll probably steal some off some old boards in the junk box.

EDIT: The 18F1320 is blinking LEDs now. Now to get those switches doing something...

Last edited by futz; 10th November 2007 at 08:02 AM.
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