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| Micro Controllers Discuss all aspects of micro controllers - building them, coding them, etc. All controllers are welcome - PIC, BASIC, Z8 Encore!, etc. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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I was able to isolate LED1 by changing the module on swordfish. When I did the same to isolate LED2, it again lights 3 and 5 instead of 2.
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These will determine the I/O on powerup, if they're not there the I/O could get wonky on the Junebugs Tutor. Try out the debugger and post your code.
Code:
CONFIG OSC = INTIO2 ADCON1 = %11110101 |
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I changed the module in swordfish like this...
{ ************************************************** *************************** * Name : JUNEBUG.BAS * * Author : William Richardson * * Notice : Copyright (c) 2008 blueroomelectronics * * : All Rights Reserved * * Date : 2/1/2008 * * Version : 0.91beta * * Notes : * * : * ************************************************** *************************** } Module Junebug Device = 18F1320 Public Sub LED(x As Byte) Select x Case 2 // LED 2 TRISA.0 = 0 TRISA.6 = 0 TRISA.7 = 1 Low (PORTA.0) High(PORTA.6) Else // All LEDs Off TRISA.0 = 1 TRISA.6 = 1 TRISA.7 = 1 End Select End Sub Config OSC = INTIO2, WDT = OFF, LVP = OFF ADCON1 = %11110101 OSCCON = $62 // 4 MHz clock to isolate LED2. With this code, instead of LED2 blinking, 3 and 5 do. I tried isolating it with MPLAB and was able to do so with the breakpoints, but I can't get any changes to work... And I can't seem to get that last config code that you suggested to work without getting an error. |
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Ahh got it, LED 2 is dead or not connected or in backwards, this would allow current to flow through LEDs 3&5 when LED2 is supposed to be on. I take it it's never lit up. If it has then it sounds like it's in backwards.
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ah ha! I knew it wasn't code related, LOL. This may be easy stuff for you, but the fact that I was able to do what I did makes me feel like a genius! 'twas such a great learning process!
I'll test the LED and let you know what I find. It's definitely not in backwards, unless they flattened the wrong side. |
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Can I replace it with this one? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...t&tab=features
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Quote:
I bought 200 LEDs for that price. Nice markup, Radio Shack!
__________________
========================= Futz's Microcontrollers & Robotics ========================= Last edited by futz; 2nd February 2008 at 12:39 AM. |
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Just email me with your mailing address I'll put one in the post. They are 5mm Red around 800mcd.
Hard to burn out an LED but a dud can sneak in there. The radio shack one will work fine. Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 2nd February 2008 at 01:08 AM. |
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Junebug from Hyderabad, India-- is HERE. I did make some changes in the 10pin connector type. it is a right angle type. Ipropose to put a pindetails as a sticker on top of it.
Thanks to Bill who readily agreed to send ,not only bare board, but the crtical resistor packs also, across the Globe.
__________________
Regards, Sarma. Last edited by mvs sarma; 7th July 2008 at 12:14 PM. |
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Quote:
Rather unfortunate.
__________________
Regards, Sarma. |
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Just a thought, since the Junebugs display is charlieplexed the LED should have turned on at one point with the blinky demo even if it was in backwards. So it's either a cold solder joint, broken trace or dead LED.
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Just thought I'd report that I finally got the Junebug working 100%! Couldn't have done it without everyone's help. Must've all been caused by a dud LED, then things got complicated when I removed the bad LED, but I got it all fixed and cleaned up now.
Next step: Learn how to write code! |
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For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)
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Quote:
__________________
Regards, Sarma. |
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