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Old 1st February 2008, 07:23 PM   (permalink)
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I was able to isolate LED1 by changing the module on swordfish. When I did the same to isolate LED2, it again lights 3 and 5 instead of 2.
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Old 1st February 2008, 07:27 PM   (permalink)
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These will determine the I/O on powerup, if they're not there the I/O could get wonky on the Junebugs Tutor. Try out the debugger and post your code.

Code:
CONFIG OSC = INTIO2
ADCON1 = %11110101
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Old 1st February 2008, 11:56 PM   (permalink)
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I changed the module in swordfish like this...

{
************************************************** ***************************
* Name : JUNEBUG.BAS *
* Author : William Richardson *
* Notice : Copyright (c) 2008 blueroomelectronics *
* : All Rights Reserved *
* Date : 2/1/2008 *
* Version : 0.91beta *
* Notes : *
* : *
************************************************** ***************************
}

Module Junebug
Device = 18F1320
Public Sub LED(x As Byte)
Select x
Case 2 // LED 2
TRISA.0 = 0
TRISA.6 = 0
TRISA.7 = 1
Low (PORTA.0)
High(PORTA.6)

Else // All LEDs Off
TRISA.0 = 1
TRISA.6 = 1
TRISA.7 = 1

End Select
End Sub
Config OSC = INTIO2, WDT = OFF, LVP = OFF
ADCON1 = %11110101
OSCCON = $62 // 4 MHz clock


to isolate LED2. With this code, instead of LED2 blinking, 3 and 5 do. I tried isolating it with MPLAB and was able to do so with the breakpoints, but I can't get any changes to work...

And I can't seem to get that last config code that you suggested to work without getting an error.
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Old 2nd February 2008, 12:05 AM   (permalink)
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Ahh got it, LED 2 is dead or not connected or in backwards, this would allow current to flow through LEDs 3&5 when LED2 is supposed to be on. I take it it's never lit up. If it has then it sounds like it's in backwards.
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Old 2nd February 2008, 12:09 AM   (permalink)
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ah ha! I knew it wasn't code related, LOL. This may be easy stuff for you, but the fact that I was able to do what I did makes me feel like a genius! 'twas such a great learning process!

I'll test the LED and let you know what I find. It's definitely not in backwards, unless they flattened the wrong side.
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Old 2nd February 2008, 12:29 AM   (permalink)
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Can I replace it with this one? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...t&tab=features
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Old 2nd February 2008, 12:37 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekyguy11
Oh!!! Brutal price! Ya, that'll do.

I bought 200 LEDs for that price. Nice markup, Radio Shack!
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Last edited by futz; 2nd February 2008 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 2nd February 2008, 01:05 AM   (permalink)
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Just email me with your mailing address I'll put one in the post. They are 5mm Red around 800mcd.
Hard to burn out an LED but a dud can sneak in there.
The radio shack one will work fine.
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Last edited by blueroomelectronics; 2nd February 2008 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 2nd February 2008, 08:59 AM   (permalink)
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Junebug from Hyderabad, India-- is HERE. I did make some changes in the 10pin connector type. it is a right angle type. Ipropose to put a pindetails as a sticker on top of it.

Thanks to Bill who readily agreed to send ,not only bare board, but the crtical resistor packs also, across the Globe.
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Last edited by mvs sarma; 7th July 2008 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 3rd February 2008, 01:49 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekyguy11
ah ha! I knew it wasn't code related, LOL. This may be easy stuff for you, but the fact that I was able to do what I did makes me feel like a genius! 'twas such a great learning process!

I'll test the LED and let you know what I find. It's definitely not in backwards, unless they flattened the wrong side.
OH! it is from an international supplier may be from China. I too got 7 atleast in a batch of 25.Some were showing break even-- I don't know whether to to call them Dumpers or call the landing country unlucky.
Rather unfortunate.
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Old 3rd February 2008, 02:57 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekyguy11
It's definitely not in backwards, unless they flattened the wrong side.
That's been a frequent issue with LEDs I've recently received! The wrong side of the package was flattened; however, the longest lead is the anode, exactly as one would expect.
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Old 3rd February 2008, 03:08 PM   (permalink)
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Just a thought, since the Junebugs display is charlieplexed the LED should have turned on at one point with the blinky demo even if it was in backwards. So it's either a cold solder joint, broken trace or dead LED.
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Old 5th February 2008, 04:42 AM   (permalink)
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Just thought I'd report that I finally got the Junebug working 100%! Couldn't have done it without everyone's help. Must've all been caused by a dud LED, then things got complicated when I removed the bad LED, but I got it all fixed and cleaned up now.

Next step: Learn how to write code!
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Old 5th February 2008, 03:42 PM   (permalink)
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For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)
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Old 6th February 2008, 04:12 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krumlink
For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)
I test light the LED with a battery and resistor and if needed cut one lead short to maintain the accepted standard and thereafter follow lead length and don't look at flat surface.
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