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Old 10th October 2009, 09:16 AM   #16
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?? The dot shows that wires are JOINED. Otherwise it might just be wires crossing over each other.
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Old 10th October 2009, 03:32 PM   #17
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The black dots are soldered connections in the circuit. Where a wire passes another wire without a black dot then the wires are not connected in the circuit.

You must connect the polarity of the LEDs correctly.

Here is an example of how wrong your connections are. Here is your results and the correct results:

Constant Pin 0 - 5V+
GND to Pin1 - LED 3 No, LED 0.
GND to Pin2 - LED 9 No, LED 6.
GND to Pin3 - LED 11 No, LED 8.

Constant Pin 0 - GND
5V+ to Pin1 - LED 0 No, LED 1.
5V+ to Pin2 - LED 8,0,1,5 (5 really dimm) No, LED7.
5V+ to Pin3 - LED 10 No, LED9.
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Old 11th October 2009, 05:30 AM   #18
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Okay I cut new wires and made it look nice and neat.
So at least you can see what I have and make sense out of it.

I burned out the last 3 led's since the beginning of this whole process.
So I'm using 3 led's I pulled out of an old pc case for now.




Constant Pin 0 - 5V+
GND to Pin1 - LED 0/4/7
GND to Pin2 - LED 8
GND to Pin3 - LED 0/6

Constant Pin 0 - GND
5V+ to Pin1 - LED 3
5V+ to Pin2 - LED 3/4
5V+ to Pin3 - LED 3/5/7


Constant Pin 1 - 5V+
GND to Pin0 - LED 3
GND to Pin2 - LED 1
GND to Pin3 - LED 6

Constant Pin 1 - GND
5V+ to Pin0 - LED 0/4/8
5V+ to Pin2 - LED 4
5V+ to Pin3 - LED 4/5/7


Constant Pin 2 - 5V+
GND to Pin0 - LED 3/4
GND to Pin1 - LED 4
GND to Pin3 - LED 4/6/9/10

Constant Pin 2 - GND
5V+ to Pin0 - LED 8
5V+ to Pin1 - LED 1
5V+ to Pin3 - LED 5


Constant Pin 3 - 5V+
GND to Pin0 - LED 3/5/7
GND to Pin1 - LED 4/5/7
GND to Pin2 - LED 5

Constant Pin 3 - GND
5V+ to Pin0 - LED 0/6
5V+ to Pin1 - LED 6
5V+ to Pin2 - LED 4/6

Thanks,

Kenny

Last edited by kenny782; 11th October 2009 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 11th October 2009, 02:34 PM   #19
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You still have many LEDs lighting wrong.
You didn't label your LEDs on your breadboard and didn't show their polarity so mayby you made more mistakes.
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Old 11th October 2009, 05:41 PM   #20
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do you see anything wrong with the layout of wiring itself though?

-Kenny
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Old 11th October 2009, 05:58 PM   #21
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If you label your LEDs and show their polarity then it will be easy to see what is wrong with the wiring.
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Old 11th October 2009, 07:16 PM   #22
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I've been checking polarity through this entire ordeal carefully.

I think it's this f'in breadboard.
I took the three led's I pulled from the breadboard.
I soldered jumper wires to the stranded wire coming out of the 3 led's I got from my PC.
I had the wires directly going into the breadboard but securely.


It still doesn't work right but the results have completely changed.
I think my wiring has been fine since the first two posts you guys answered,
but this stupid bored must have been shorting all over the place.
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I was using a set of jumper wires for everything the last three days until yesterday. I made up my own which you see in the pic.
Of course everything would've went into different holes, different results.

So wired are ruled out.

Now I moved everything over one row(same wires), different results again.


I picked up this large board so I'd have more room for this project
Oh I'd like to some taiwanese and smack him in the head right now...

-Kenny
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Old 11th October 2009, 07:31 PM   #23
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Here's a copy anyway, you might find something wrong. If it's the board at least I'll know how to wire it on the replacement.



Thanks again,

Kenny
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Old 11th October 2009, 10:05 PM   #24
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I never use a breadboard so I am guessing about how yours connects.
You missed one wire and have the polarity of every LED backwards.
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Mystery LED's in Series-mystery-leds.png  
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Old 11th October 2009, 11:03 PM   #25
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each row of 5 across is connected to a single conductor.
so any wires in that row are connected.

I added the missing wire, and checked the polarity and everything is reversed now as you listed.

Maybe the three temporary led's are throwing off the resistance too?
They're only 3mm, versus 10mm. And they're connected to the 30" of wire they were attached to when I pulled them out of the computer.

Kenny
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Old 11th October 2009, 11:06 PM   #26
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Right now 5v+ to pin 0 give me:
gnd pin 1 - led 3
gnd pin 2 - led 9
gnd pin 3 - led 10
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Old 11th October 2009, 11:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny782 View Post
Right now 5v+ to pin 0 give me:
gnd pin 1 - led 3 No, LED 0.
gnd pin 2 - led 9 No, LED 6.
gnd pin 3 - led 10 No, LED 8.
You don't know what you are doing and I don't know what you are doing.
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Old 12th October 2009, 12:39 AM   #28
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Sorry, I'll just play with it myself for a few days then and see if I get anywhere.

But I appreciate your help with this anyway, I know you've spent quite a bit of time on these posts.

Thanks again,

-Kenny

Last edited by kenny782; 12th October 2009 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 12th October 2009, 06:42 AM   #29
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Well just one last comment, I threw some 150ohm resistors on and it's 90% functional.
The combination of pin3+ and pin4- brings up multiple LED's, otherwise is fine.

So I built a 6 LED model to make troubleshooting easier, same 150 ohm resistors.
It only took 10 minutes anyway.
Combination of pin2- and pin3+ produces multiple led's, otherwise works fine.

It's the last two pins in both configurations.





Since that's the furthest LED maybe I need to swap out the resisters again?

Last edited by kenny782; 12th October 2009 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 12th October 2009, 09:01 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxM5xx View Post
You must have soldered LED 0 in backwards. Fix that and then proceed to see if there are other construction problems.

Charlieplexing is wonderful, but when a part is put in wrong (LED0) it is hell to find it...same is true for if a part in the array becomes defective. Read the Wiki page at the link I sent earlier.
This is a nice little Atmel 8 Bit Micro with One 150 kHz, 8-bit High-speed PWM Output he can do all sorts of wonders like a common anode 32 level PWM circuit and drive with active Hi NPN column drive transistors. Charlieplexed of coarse. If the guy wants a circuit just ask.
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