If the wires are large it shouldn't be a problem. The difficult things about soldering is...well nothing really. It's just precision if the joint needs to be small.

Originally Posted by Rotten organs Restal pus

Hey thanks dude. But how do you manage to hold the wires? Will they stick right away?
I asked someone on ebay, about this epoxy thing, who used the product and she said putting a bit of epoxy glue over the wire glue to strengthen didn't do anything good.

Hello again,


Well, when you twist the wire ends together that gives it the mechanical
support it needs while the wire glue is drying. It's that simple. First
strip maybe 3/4 inch from the ends of both wires to be joined, then
twist them together maybe 5 turns or more. That puts them into
good contact to begin with, even without the wire glue. Then, dip
into the wire glue container and that coats then entire joint. You
will then have to give it time to dry during which time the joint should
not be moved at all.
The next step, should you want to add more mechanical strength, is
to add some 5 minute epoxy over the wire glue, plus a little more
over the leads that still have insulation. This will add to the mechanical
strength despite what that eBay'er said. Just make sure the epoxy
also coats some of the leads where there is still insulation.
The more epoxy the better here, and another idea is to tape the wires
before the epoxy dries to something solid, like the guitar wood sides or
bottom. Two small pieces of tape even better, one on each side of the
joint (not over the joint). This will hold the joint with epoxy onto the
wood which when dry will keep the joint from moving. This wont always
be possible of course, when the wires are not long enough to allow this
or they have to be able to move after the repair anyway.
If you are really concerned about the strength, after the epoxy is
applied before it dries wrap several turns of heavy duty 'coat' thread
around the joint. The epoxy will soak into the thread and form a nice
solid mechanical structure. You can even coat the joint a second time
with the epoxy to get a stronger joint.

Let me see if i can draw a picture of this...be right back...

Originally Posted by MrAl

Hello again,


Well, when you twist the wire ends together that gives it the mechanical
support it needs while the wire glue is drying. It's that simple. First
strip maybe 3/4 inch from the ends of both wires to be joined, then
twist them together maybe 5 turns or more. That puts them into
good contact to begin with, even without the wire glue. Then, dip
into the wire glue container and that coats then entire joint. You
will then have to give it time to dry during which time the joint should
not be moved at all.
The next step, should you want to add more mechanical strength, is
to add some 5 minute epoxy over the wire glue, plus a little more
over the leads that still have insulation. This will add to the mechanical
strength despite what that eBay'er said. Just make sure the epoxy
also coats some of the leads where there is still insulation.
The more epoxy the better here, and another idea is to tape the wires
before the epoxy dries to something solid, like the guitar wood sides or
bottom. Two small pieces of tape even better, one on each side of the
joint (not over the joint). This will hold the joint with epoxy onto the
wood which when dry will keep the joint from moving. This wont always
be possible of course, when the wires are not long enough to allow this
or they have to be able to move after the repair anyway.
If you are really concerned about the strength, after the epoxy is
applied before it dries wrap several turns of heavy duty 'coat' thread
around the joint. The epoxy will soak into the thread and form a nice
solid mechanical structure. You can even coat the joint a second time
with the epoxy to get a stronger joint.

Let me see if i can draw a picture of this...be right back...

Alright, very good.
I shall try the glue. Now let me ask you this, what if I didn't make the connection after all, could it be cleaned off so I'd be able to try another application? What I mean of course is the pot and the volume knobs where wires will be glued on.

And what kind of epoxy am I looking for? Does this one work?
Amazon.com: Permatex 84101 PermaPoxy 5 Minute General Purpose Epoxy -- Crystal Clear: Automotive

And how about a Solder Paste? Ever used that?

I understand your situation. A lot of us hesitate when we need to solder or first SOIC, QFP or whatever. We all wish there was a better/easier way to do it. After you have done it a few times it is not bad.

Take the following as me telling you how I see it rather then as me telling you what to do.

Originally Posted by Rotten organs Restal pus

CAUSE I'M SCARED, OKAY?
lol No, it's just that it's my first time soldering these pickup wires and I'm kind of hesitant. I thought it'd be a "cleaner" job if I went ahead with buying the conductive wire glue.

About time

I have used the "Wire Glue". MrAl can confirm or debunk this but I found it to be unpleasant to work with. The viscosity is low and you have to use care. Like an ice cream cone in a new car. It seems to get on everything.

I have a lot more experience with soldering then I have with wire glue but from my view point the glue will be a harder task than soldering.

If you have enough room to twist the wires or dip them in glue you should have enough room to solder them.

If you can raise the wires a bit and place a bit of aluminum foil under them to protect the rest of the circuitry/wires. Using a liquid flux pen to on the wires prior to soldering will help to. Use a 15 watt or temperature controlled soldering pencil.

A closeup of the wires to be soldered would be interesting.

If you do choose to glue use wax or parchment paper under the wire to protect the other wires.

3v0

Hi 3v0,

My biggest complaint with the Wire Glue is that the container it comes in makes
you think it is a jell or something, but it's not it's a liquid with a water base.
The first time i opened it when it arrived in the mail i almost spilled the whole
container out (he he) but lucky i caught it just as the lid opened...only a few
drops spilled.

I of course immediately started testing it after that. One of the tests was to
run a longish dab on a piece of index card with wires running out both sides.
This allowed me to test the resistivity and also how good it would be to make
a custom resistor with. The resistance varies with temperature like a 10 or
20 percent resistor so that's something else to keep in mind...cant be used to
calibrate anything with a custom resistor value.

Anyway, back to the OP:
Yes that epoxy looks like it should work.
I still agree however that soldering is the best.
Solder paste has to be heated with an iron too.

MrAl,

I had the same problem when I opened the container. But I lost more then a few drops. But it is not a problem in that what is left may be a life time supply.


3v0

Don't use acid core solder. Use rosin core solder smaller is better for small wires.

I had high hopes for it too.

What be80be is correct. Acid core solder will corrode the joint in time. Personally I have never tried it.

If you want to do a good job buy a liquid flux pen intended for electronic work. Wet the wires prior to soldering. But I think if you practice soldering on other wires first you will do fine either way.

3v0

I did when I was kid my dad laugh at me and said looks good son. But wait till the acid insulates the wire from the lead by turning it green it did and stopped working never used
acid core on wires agin LOL

Originally Posted by Rotten organs Restal pus

You know what people, this thing sucked!
I tried on one of my old guitars that needed some modification and everything, and it didn't do it.
So I'm going with solder. Now, does it matter if I'm using an electrical solder or a metal work solder?
And as for the gauge of the solder wire I'm using, which one's better in your judgment: .031" or .062"?

Hi again,


Oh so you tried some then?

You know this stuff reminded me of, mud (ha ha) when i first saw it.

I might try this on one of my guitars too, to attach a ground lead to the aluminum ground shield.
I'll let everyone know what happens, how it works.