+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 6
First 1 2 3 4 5 6 Last
Results 16 to 30 of 89

Thread: Toner transfer release agents.

  1. #16
    Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    England
    Posts
    13,043

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by whiz115 View Post
    glue in the printer? even if it is dried...isn't it dangerous to mess the printer?!

    how many PCBs you guys do each day and magazines aren't enough for you?
    If it's dried I don't see the problem.

    Anyway can we please keep to the original topic of release agents?

    So far I've been pretty happy with magazine paper. I've never had any problems and think that proprietary papers such as Pulsar and Press 'n' Peel are a total waste of money. Magazine paper is free and if it can be improved at very little cost then all the better.

    I don't have a problem with people using overpriced paper or even talking about it on the forum but there are plenty of threads for that.

    There are lots of common chemicals that are water soluble and dry hard, here are some I can think of off the top of my head:

    Wallpaper paste.
    Hairspray.
    Hair gel.
    Soap.
    Acacia gum (the sticky stuff on labels you need to lick).
    Cherry tree resin.

    All of the above are probably worth a try, I don't know whether they'll all stand up to the heat from the iron.
    Last edited by Hero999; 9th July 2009 at 10:15 PM.

    I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

    Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help,
    if I know the answer.


  2. #17
    MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,128

    Default Where do you get blank magazine paper?

    I would wonder if the ink already on the paper would interfer with process.
    As for release agents
    I think Pulsar uses cornstarch I recall seeing posted
    If so it dosn't seem to stiff.
    Hair Spray?? that might just work
    I assume we are after a release agent that will take heat and be water soluble and yet dry to a thin film and not make the paper stiff.
    Wax paper = wax melts
    Parchment paper = won't do a transfer?
    The hair spray idea might just work. But my wife doesn't use it nor do I.
    another thought is roll on deodorant??

  3. #18
    MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent MrDEB Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,128

    Default Rice paper??

    has it been tried?
    they use it for doing pictures on cakes.

  4. #19
    Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    England
    Posts
    13,043

    Default

    Magazine paper actually works slightly better on the inked areas. The kind of ink the magazine printer's use is totally different to toner and seems to act like a release agent. After peeling the paper off there are white lines where the PCB traces were.

    Deodorant might not be soluble enough.

    I've never seen plain rice paper before, is it expensive?

    I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

    Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help,
    if I know the answer.

  5. #20
    3v0
    3v0 is offline
    3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6,463
    Blog Entries
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero999 View Post
    I've never had any problems and think that proprietary papers such as Pulsar and Press 'n' Peel are a total waste of money.
    ...
    I don't have a problem with people using overpriced paper or even talking about it on the forum but there are plenty of threads for that.
    When don't you tell us how you really feel.



    3v0
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

    BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
    Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
    The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

  6. #21
    mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    California USA
    Posts
    3,813

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HarveyH42 View Post
    Isn't Mucilage made from mucus? Or was that just gross, grade school humor...
    I looked it up, and mucilage is, among other things, the flytrap goo of carnivorous plants. Now that's gross.
    Last edited by mneary; 9th July 2009 at 11:29 PM.
    de KI6RWX

  7. #22
    Rolf Good Rolf Good Rolf Good
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    E. Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    652

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero999 View Post
    {snip}it's dried I don't see the problem.{snip}
    So far I've been pretty happy with magazine paper. I've never had any problems and think that proprietary papers such as Pulsar and Press 'n' Peel are a total waste of money. Magazine paper is free and if it can be improved at very little cost then all the better.
    {snip}I don't have a problem with people using overpriced paper or even talking about it on the forum but there are plenty of threads for that.
    {snip}
    I don't know if I fully agree with you on everything in your post but never mind..........
    I think I am making progress on the magazine papers ability to release the toner much, much faster.
    Elmer's (new) School Glue Gel ($2.29 us for 4 oz)
    seems to do the job. Found it accidentally this afternoon.
    After smearing it on the magazine paper wrinkles badly during drying and must be ironed before the PCB pattern can be printed.
    Made a mistake and left my iron temp. at 300°F,
    that was too hot but I went ahead with the test anyhow. The printed pattern looked good under a magnifying glass, except for a few places were it had bubbled due to the excess heat.
    The transfer looked fine except for the places with the bubbles. After ironing for about three minutes I dipped the PCB directly in water. After a few minutes soaking, the paper just about fell off!
    And the traces looked great.
    Now I just have to find out the best way to get the glue on, using my finger is not my preferred way. Maybe I can dilute the glue with water and dip a whole page at the time.
    Also I have to find the correct temp., to iron the paper before printing.

    Question: Am I the only one here that is doing any experimenting?
    Last edited by Rolf; 10th July 2009 at 02:35 AM.

  8. #23
    mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent mneary Excellent
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    California USA
    Posts
    3,813

    Default

    I would be experimenting with mucilage but I found my 35 year old bottle (Woolworths with a 59 cent price tag) is dried up. I went out searching for it at Michaels but nobody's heard of it.
    de KI6RWX

  9. #24
    HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    My interest in this thread, is mostly of amusement, but I do like useful things made out of normally discarded items. Would try this myself, unless I was desperate, and didn't have access to the Pulsar paper. I get at least 2 boards, on about 40 cents worth of paper, a lot less prep work and time (wish I had the free time you guys have, mine doesn't come so cheap).

    But doesn't it seem odd, that you refuse to pay $1.50 for a full sheet that's ready to go and works fine, but more than willing to run thin magazine paper (jammed in mine, 2 out 3 tries), and exotic coatings of unknown heat tolerance through your $100+ laser printers?

    I guess you do get bragging rights, if you find a free alternative to a commercial product.

    Anyway, I do have a few constructive ideas...
    Since you are going to coat the paper yourself, go with something heavier than magazine paper. It won't curl and wrinkle as much. Before you coat, you can tape it down to a smooth surface (glass maybe), apply the goo, and use something like a non-stick Teflon cutting board/sheet, maybe even some of that wax paper... over the coating, then a heavy smooth surface to keep it pressed flat. Everything is reusable, except the paper.

  10. #25
    UTMonkey Good UTMonkey Good UTMonkey Good
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Chesterfield, Derbyshire - UK
    Posts
    428

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 3v0 View Post
    The general method is to use only enough pulsar paper for the image you are printing.

    1. Print image on regular paper.

    2. Cut pulsar paper to cover image on regular paper.

    3. Place a single piece of tape along top edge of pulsar paper to hole it in place over image. (I use blue painters tape)

    4. Print the image on the above assembly.

    This method allows for maximum use of the paper. One sheet will make a lot of small boards.
    Whats the stuff that you use afterward to ensure an ever better trace?

  11. #26
    3v0
    3v0 is offline
    3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6,463
    Blog Entries
    11

    Default

    Hero999 has asked us not to hijack his thread so I am starting a new one. We can talk about the pulsar system there.

    pcbFX questions (aka Pulsar)

    3v0



    Last edited by 3v0; 10th July 2009 at 01:42 PM.
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

    BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
    Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
    The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

  12. #27
    Rolf Good Rolf Good Rolf Good
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    E. Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    652

    Talking 2nd try with Elmer's Gel Glue

    Quote Originally Posted by Rolf View Post
    {snip}And the traces looked great.
    Now I just have to find out the best way to get the glue on, using my finger is not my preferred way. Maybe I can dilute the glue with water and dip a whole page at the time.
    Also I have to find the correct temp., to iron the paper before printing. {snip}
    Here is a picture of the PCB, still soaking wet, after soaking for about two minutes. Note the transfer paper came off in one piece!
    There are some distortions in traces due to water droplets acting like little lenses.
    The transfer paper was ironed at 200°F to removed the wrinkles that the Elmer's gel glue caused. Paper has to be dry first.

    Next I will try to dilute the glue and dip a whole sheet in at one time. Stay tuned!
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Rolf; 10th July 2009 at 04:03 PM.

  13. #28
    Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent Hero999 Excellent
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    England
    Posts
    13,043

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HarveyH42 View Post
    But doesn't it seem odd, that you refuse to pay $1.50 for a full sheet that's ready to go and works fine,
    I'd rather pay £0 for something that works fine.

    The only think I would like to improve it the soak time, if the paper could fall away as soon as it gets wet, it would be great.

    but more than willing to run thin magazine paper (jammed in mine, 2 out 3 tries),
    I've never had any problems with it jamming before, perhaps the paper you used was too thin?

    The magazine paper I use isn't much lighter than normal printer paper.

    Anyway, I do have a few constructive ideas...
    Since you are going to coat the paper yourself, go with something heavier than magazine paper. It won't curl and wrinkle as much. Before you coat, you can tape it down to a smooth surface (glass maybe), apply the goo, and use something like a non-stick Teflon cutting board/sheet, maybe even some of that wax paper... over the coating, then a heavy smooth surface to keep it pressed flat. Everything is reusable, except the paper.
    Going thicker might not help, any paper will curl and bubble if you get it too soggy.

    I think using something less wet is probably a better solution.

    I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or correct me if I'm wrong.

    Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help,
    if I know the answer.

  14. #29
    3v0
    3v0 is offline
    3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent 3v0 Excellent
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6,463
    Blog Entries
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero999
    I don't have a problem with people using overpriced paper or even talking about it on the forum but there are plenty of threads for that.
    Based on this I created a thread for people interested in talking about the Pulsar system. In the new Pulsar thread you posted:

    Quote Originally Posted by Hero999
    You need to use magazine paper, there's no need to waste your money!
    Apparently you do have a problem with people who would rather spend 1.5 cents per square inch rather then burn their time reinventing the wheel.

    3v0
    Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

    BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
    Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
    The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

  15. #30
    HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent HarveyH42 Excellent
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 3v0 View Post
    Based on this I created a thread for people interested in talking about the Pulsar system. In the new Pulsar thread you posted:

    Apparently you do have a problem with people who would rather spend 1.5 cents per square inch rather then burn their time reinventing the wheel.

    3v0
    It's like changing tires on your car. You can get a shop to mount them on their machine for $10-$20 each, or you can spend 15-20 just to remove the tire from the wheel, for free. Did this many times in my youth, haven't even seen it done in the past twenty years. It's not that it can't be done by most people, it's messy and very physical. I wouldn't consider doing again, unless there was no other option. Same with magazine paper.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 6
First 1 2 3 4 5 6 Last

Similar Threads

  1. Toner Transfer PCB... Possible on this?
    By Franknstein in forum Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews
    Replies: 31
    Latest: 11th November 2009, 09:13 PM
  2. PCB toner transfer
    By Badar in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 58
    Latest: 16th July 2009, 01:40 PM
  3. PCB toner transfer stuff?
    By Oznog in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 5
    Latest: 7th March 2006, 03:37 PM
  4. PCB Toner transfer
    By GatorGuy in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 7
    Latest: 15th July 2005, 12:36 PM
  5. For all the toner-transfer PCB makers....
    By evandude in forum General Electronics Chat
    Replies: 3
    Latest: 28th January 2005, 03:02 AM

Tags for this Thread