Talk to the Autorouter.....why do you think I'm asking for help!

 

thats what made the mess in the first place

 

board is 54 x 56
add perimeter boundary of 5mm - ?

 

From the left to right which is width, I can swing 56mm + 5mm

And from bottom to top which is height, I can swing 54mm + 5mm

The height cannot be any more than 59 mm total... The height is extremely critical 58 mm would be better

The Width I can have a little more play because in my board i was able to cut down the corners at 45 degree angles giving me some wiggle room.

 

center the traces and you can chop away?
If you want an exact size then let me know.
height or width = I can just rotate the entire trace layout.
I plan on cleaning up the design as nothing is in-line. I found putting your pads in-line then just use a fence on the drill press and start drilling with less guess work.
Also drill after etching then you have a small pocket that helps align the bit.

 

I assume the pot, jacks are off board?
the JP# are jumper connections from off board items like pot, jacks, power wires etc. (did the pot wires in yellow.
the lead spacing I hope is correct. looked up similar on Mouser site.
using expresspcb. if you want the files let me know

Attached Thumbnails

   

 

If you could keep the dim. of the board the same as I had them, that would be great. Remember that when you set the board circuits, you have to keep the circuits on the left of my original design in order and the ones on the top in order in those places. You are correct, the pot, jacks are going to be off board, just need the pads to place wires.

You inspired me to try (just for the learning process) and see if I could get rid of the jumpers myself, and the sample below is as far as I could get. I still have one jumper. Boo hoo. I don't think it looks as nice as the other one did but it does get rid of the jumpers except one. Maybe you have a suggestion how to get rid of the last one? Take a look.

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

what size are your traces?
If you have capabilities of doing a filled plane then your etching will take less time but use more laser ink.
have your printer set for the highest dpi or density.
I made some corrections like avoiding too many squggily traces and avoid right angle traces. Also have no jumpers.
I made corrections using a photo prg (what pcb layout prg are you using?
make sure that the image prints correctly-mirror as your transfering image onto underside thus a mirror image.
double check your printed circuit against the schematic (some prgs have a schematic inport so you can automatically check connections.
expresspcb has this feature.
I should have done corrections in a different color.

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

you have no part designations like C1 or R6 or ??
you could be headed for failure without them or a way to check against a schematic.

 

Traces are 0.6

I will use the filled plane becuase the board will last longer.

Thanks for the heads up on the dpi settings. I don't have a printer....any suggestions what is a good printer...(hopefully not hundereds of dollars) that will give me really good quality pcb's. I will be buying one very soon, but I don't want to spend a lot for bells and whistles that I won't use. I am buying specifically for pcb only and willing to spend what has to be spent. The inkjet I have is for all other uses.

Lol I ddin't know if I could put that last jumper from the header on P5, I thought it might be different becasue I was dealing with the IC chip (I/O) which I don't entirely understand. Too funny. Live and learn

I am using Sprint, I think when I go to the print section..it automatically does that. But thanks for the heads up...I will make sure before I use the laser printer to print the traces.

Sprint has a tester......I have tested so many times it's not even funny.

I am not sure how to connect those traces. What angle should I intercept at?

What do you mean part designators? Do you mean I don't have everything labeled? I was told that labels will cause short circuits in the print out so I got rid of them. I have all the parts labeled in another pic for reference. Is that what your concern is?

Woo Hoo getting closer!
Mark

 

I found .25mm is fine for traces unless your carring some heavy amperage?
a Laser printer is what you have to have for quality printing.
also look at purchasing a PULSAR system
has sveral sheets of paper, some green TFF film (fills all the little voids in the transfer)
the kit I purchased came with several copper clad boards.
you can use an iron but I found better results using a laminator.
look at newegg.com for a good deal on a laser printer.
Pulsar states - avoid the Brother or ? line of printers as the ink doesn't work as well.
avoid right angles and V intersections.
when I must use such angles I just put a filled plane around the intersection (see my post where I added filled planes.
check out the PULSAR website for info.

 

I'm going to make the traces skinnier then.

One question on the laser printer. Don't need color right? Black and White will do just fine right?

I have been looking at pulsar. Some one said something about getting a 4" in one for $25 but i didn't see that anywhere on their website. Do you know anything about that?

 

On the Pulsar site they say color is actually not good, because the ink is too thin.Pulsar only sell the large laminator, but people have mentioned that they found good 4" units on ebay for $25. There are several listed on ebay, so you'll have to do some research.

__________________
de KI6RWX

 

Thank You

Ended up buying the pulsar one.

 

When first laying out PCBs for home etching I suggest you use larger traces. I suggest .016 inch.

Why? Because you have a better chance of the transfer and etch working properly with wider traces. After a success or two you can start cranking down the size.

3v0

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BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
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