Gerber files are the standard text files that represent the PCB data.
Extracting the gerbers from Sprint is easy. It's just File > Export.
The Excellon option will extract the drill file. Choosing gerber will extract the copper layer.

 

It look much better to me too. You can work on PCB layout till you are old or dead. At some point you have say good enough. I like to stop layout and come back to it in a day or two. That lets me see things I can not when I am working on it. When I populate the board I have the layout open and make changes too. The world can disagree with what looked good on paper. You may even find things you do not like or would like to have during use.

I am glad you snagged the HF drill press on sale. It was on sale when I got mine too and it has turned out to be a good investment.

__________________
Please post questions to the forums. PM's are for personal communication.

BCHS/3v0's Tutorials
Junebug USB PIC programmer kit., USB Bit Whacker,
The 15 Minute Printed Circuit Board! (+drill time)

 

I have the HF drill press too, great deal with the discount!

I would build one and see what happens. The only interesting places are on the LM358 pin 1&2, 2&3. You'll just have to inspect it before etching.

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de KI6RWX

 

Couple Questions:

Can I cutout the 4 corners of the PCB Board? Or can you only make square boards?

How can I get rid of those 3 connection strings? When I click on 'remove connection bands' It does not get rid of them. It says " 0 removed, 3 remain "?

Does the ground plain (which I wont use for ground ) distance look ok? It's set at .7?

 

This is a toner transfer board, correct? You can make it any shape you can handle. If you send it out, your fabricator may have restrictions.

The connection bands are probably on their own "layer" and you probably can turn that layer "off". If there's no other way, you can trick the software by renaming the segments differently so the software doesn't think they need to be connected.

At very low frequencies the plane is usually harmless and is a good way to extend the life of your chemicals. But I don't recommend a floating plane area for designs that contain signals above a few Hertz. I like to connect them to GND or something like it. 0.7 is a conservative clearance. I would make it 0.5 or even 0.4 and have fewer isolated patches. If this is your first toner board, might stick with 0.5 (you're keeping my calculator warm ;-).

__________________
de KI6RWX

 

the jumper from R4 to R3 = not needed
Jumper at R1 = can reroute so not needed.
When ever possible I avoid jumpers.
do you have a schematic. I enjoy doing pcb design.
be more than happy to try my hand at your board

 

It looks nice, you can show cutouts with the white outline layer. Make it zero width

__________________
Bill
Smart Kits build Smart People
http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/

 

LOL Thanks. I thought it was conservative too. I made one of these allready and I thought I did a pretty good job for the first one. There was two boards though and I wanted to be able to make one board instead. Trouble I was running into is the size the board has to be. I can't make it bigger


I do not have a schematic. I just made the board. The whole left side and topside ( LED ) footprints can't be moved they have to stay there. I am not using LED's just put them there for the connections I will be using off them. If you still would like to try to do it I will send the spint file to you. Let me know. I would love not to have to use jumpers, that would be great. Remember: I can't have the board any bigger. I wish I could have a little breathing room on the edges. Seems to me (by reading pcb posts on here ) I might run into some problems with edges, but there is nothing that I can do about it. The bottom right is where the power will be. Negative is the top and positive on the bottom. Let me know?

Ok hopefully I can explain this without sounding idiotic. The diode above the 7660 connects to the 8pin on LM358 and also to R3. Also, the capacitor (neg)in the middle right side of board connects to R4. All those pads that are connected to those circuits mentioned are there for my jumpers. There are really 3 jumpers totall. If you can change that, that would be great. Sorry for any confusion. R4 and R3 don't need a jumper. I can see re-routing R1 by putting it between LM358 and R2, that would make things a little clearer..but i don't see that helping where the jumper needs to go. But I don't know? Leave that to you if you care to tackle it? Let me know.


Thanks 'blue' will do!

 

I am using a different program so I do not know what size the board desired is??

 

I am kinda following what your saying but want to make sure.

 

here is the general layout but have no idea where you want jumpers (connections)
the schematic is laidout similar to your board layout.
just need clarification on jumper connections and the 3 terminal on the left?? that R7 is connected to.
What is with D1 and D2??

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

On your schematic....the diode above Pin3 of 7660 on the 'line' (cathode?) side needs to connect to pin 8 of LM358 and also to R3 (side diode is connected to)

The diode you have between P2 and P4 of LM358 needs to be grounded cathode side (it's not on any I posted so it's not your fault , but it's supposed to be)

Your big question mark on the right: That connects to R4

Your question about D1 and D2 I can't answer. I just know that it is the right way to set them, and it works! They cause the light to flicker (showing it's working) until pluged into 3mm jack, then the light is disabled to save on battery, but when battery becomes weak the light come on dim showing time to change battery. It is, what it is. LOL It works but I don't know why.

The two LED's at the bottom left are actually representing a linear pot. It has 5 terminals I only need 4. Next is the R7 which connects to a jack that has 3 terminals.

Every program, and I have most of them, the connectors and the linear pot that I needed were either extremely huge or not the right pins, so I just used two LEDs for my linear pot and a header with 3 pads for my jack.

The Picture should explain pretty good check it out!

 

Move C1 left next to the LM358

Why the long trace that connects R3 with the LM358 flip it horizontal and attach to the trace that is right next to it
or
Take the trace going around R4/R6 underneath R4/R6, then no need for the link wire
Modified the image with second option since it was easier, first option still preferred

There is a lot of wasted space on the board
Capacitor polarity is all over the place same with the diodes, going to make it a pain to stuff the board if you don't have a silkscreen.

 

pin out of 5 pin pot
pin out of jacks - I put 2 different ones but I assume the jacks are mounted off board?
be nice to know what the component lead spacing is?
board size in metric or inches
all other changes are on revised schematic.
going fishing today so won't get back to this until later this afternoon.
its 5:30 am in Idaho right now

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

Board is Width 64 mm, height 58 mm

Attachment should answer most of your questions

If not, don't worry about it. I know it's unorthodox but trying the best I can.

I wouldn't stress over it....it's my mess not yours!

Attached Thumbnails